Hi I want to paint with silver heat resistant paint the mixing chamber and the shelf under the burners. Will this paint resist the flame of main burner? Main burner's flame is very close to the hole in the mixing chamber. Tell me you guys wich kind of paint you use for painting the hot parts of you stoves!
VHT (Very High Temperature) paint will work on the mixing chamber and bottom grease shelf but it will not withstand the heat from the direct contact with the flame on the burner assy's. I use silver VHT on said parts and just wire brush the burner assy's. Here is a pic of a painted burner assy on a AGM I just restored, notice that I did paint the burners, the paint did not hold up and burned off within a few minutes of operation. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/ If you feel you must have those parts painted you can always send them out to have them coated in ceramic. (Jet Hot Coating etc.)
I found this paint online it is for stoves so it should be pretty heat resistant, but like what was said before, nothing is going to stand up to direct flames www.northlineexpress.com they even have a olor green that is very close to coleman green
High heat paints are difficult at best. Prep being more important than the paint IMO. First, you can?t get the parts to be painted too clean. After all the loose crud and rust is off, I?d (assuming these are steel parts) dunk the parts in Phosphoric acid. This acid will only attack the iron Oxide (rust), and should only be used on steel and iron. After the rust is gone, you need to do the next steps fairly quickly or it will rust again. Wash the parts off with a degreaser, (Wear rubber, latex or nitril gloves) Alcohol will do, but not rubbing alcohol as it often has oil in it. Heat the parts to remove all moisture content, this can be done in an oven, over a burner, or with a torch. You will see the moisture condense, and then evaporate. Let the part cool until it is still warm, but not so hot to fry the paint when sprayed. Start the first coat, and add coats as it tack?s up, or after it dries completely. Don?t wait an hour then go at it half dry, it impairs the curing process. Getting the part into the sun on a hot day helps, as does baking each coat at not over 200 deg. DON?T do this in your wife?s food backing oven, get a remodel cast off electric oven (Not a gas fired oven, do I have to explain why?), as you don?t want the fumes that will deposit inside the oven to outgas later at higher temps into your food? Once the part is fully dried, I like to use a silicone based wax on any surface that gets bolted. (Both bolt surfaces if possible) this keeps the parts from ?Glueing? themselves together if the paint isn?t completely cured. I discovered by accident that once the high heat paint is on, you might get away with a better more decorative paint over it. My son was recoating an exhaust manifold heat shield, and after we had coated it well with high heat paint, he hit it with black lacquer high gloss (Same brand, both were black?). It looks great, and is holding up. This heat shield is bolted to my 4x4?s exhaust manifold, and is touching in 4 places, and is less than ?? from the exhaust manifold everywhere else. Hope this helps. -Outlaw
