Brakefree CLP

By accident I have found that the best carbon remover is Break-free CLP oil.

When I found this out by accident, it caused me to revisit a number of "clean items" and redo everyone of them. This is high temp, high pressure carbon deposits. It's all gone now.

This was amazing to me as I just knew that I had it clean. I use a Hawkeye bore scope to look at the objects that I clean and could not see this impacted carbon with the scope.

I clean out the Break-free with 91% Alcohol when I'm finished and suggest anyone doing the carbon removal do the same.

I hope this may help someone!

Big Al

 

Just a little late, and couldn't have run out and purchased it right now anyway... Great tip though! Thanks!

 

Pictures Big Al, pictures

 

Sounds good Al, what is it normally used for ? I've never heard of it over here.

 

and full name, without abreviations, please

 

http://www.copquest.com/65-1000.htm

http://www.imsplus.com/ims18.html

http://www.botachtactical.com/breakfree.html

 

Many thanks to vwbusman for that great link (wish I had done that)

I think that I have a few ideas that may help with a few of the problems that are addressed here on this wonderful web-site.

The information that I provide (for what it's worth) comes from a lifetime of dealing with the problems associated with the use of firearms and re-loading of brass cartridges..

I will do a thread on a good immersion type brass cleaner, that is safe, next.

Unless there is objections to my posting here?

 

Well, I hope it will work for copper also.
Post away.

Best,
Bob

 

I've used break-free a lot too. it's a very good all around product for loosening rust, deposits, etc. EXCELLENT cleaner on firearms for sure. Very fast and effective.

 

Well i got 2 cans at walmart its spray not oil hope it works

 

On your choice of the Alcohol, I use Isopropyl Alcohol from the drug store at 91% or more. If it's cheaper at the hardware store, I'm all for it. the drug store price here is always cheaper. The higher the Alcohol content, the less the water content and the faster it dries.

As far as the spray goes, I don't see a problem.

 

Big Al,

The denatured alcohol(mainly ethanol) is more expensive, but the burn is less sooty IMHO. the 91% (isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol) is definitely price friendly though

 

The reason for the Alcohol use, is to get ever last bit of any chemical out and to neutralize any left overs. At least that's what I use it for. I want anything I clean to be dry before anything else goes into it.

 

I think Robert is using the alcohol for fuel; it's the right stuff..... 8)

 

Yep in warm weather i use 2 cans week or more. Stove testing making coffee.

 

Ooops look for it in one gallon cans. it is cheaper that way.

lance

 

I just looked and I still have a small contsiner of the Brake Free CLP. Never thought to try it for carbon removal. Thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.

Regards,
Doug

 

Its a good lubricant, but it's not so good for long term corrosion resistance. I find plain old gun oil works better for the rust...

 

No oil or grease is good for corrosion resistance. You are much better off using a oil free surface and desiccant dryers. I found out the hard way when cleaning WW-II comsomolene from rifles pact full of the stuff in the late 1950's. It's called a vapor phase inhibitor. and that's what you need to use for any long term storage. I don't even allow finger print oil to stand on my firearms.

Again I wipe down with Alcohol before putting away.

 

i can't and won't speak for anyone else but my fingerprints will rust your firearm within minutes. you can actually sit and watch them rust while drinking a beer unless you chug it down in one go at the glass.

That is why when ever i handle a firearm i always wipe it down before putting it away.
I am real fond of wd40 for this purpose.
lance