Paint to Use on Optimus 8R Stoves

I have recently purchased a slack handfull of Optimus 8R's. Most of them look as if they have had an arduous life but are basically sound. As I want to restore at least one I realise I will need to paint the case. The question is which paint to use? I would like to be as accurate as possible with the colour. Thank you in anticipation of your helpfull replies.

 

Ford Cosmos Blue is a fair match.

 

Cabrio76, just wondering: does the original paint match on all of these? I ask, because i had two 8rs that, while original, didn't quite match. At all, really.

Regarding your paint: I would (and usually do) go shopping with a case in hand, then compare the different shades of paint available (in daylight!).

I use regular spray-paint and lastly add a strip of aluminium-tape underneath the priming cup, to prevent scratches and protect the paint from direct heat. Works well.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Ok cabriolet76

You obviously don't need all of them!!
When can I pop round to get a spare from you?
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Yeah, I'd better have one as well - just in case...

 

I just use GM blue engine block paint,doesn't match the original color but looks really cool.

Take care

 

Here a 22b that got rebuilt and ford blue

 

nice going oops56 your stove looks pukka now mate I'm going to have to try the electrolyses bath sometime ,i will have to do some research into it first,but it seems to work, i have am awful lot to learn,but if it means i can get results anything like yours then i have to do it,i think i will buy a cheap rough looking stove to experiment on,an old 8 or 8r would be a good place to start and see how i get on

 

There's plenty of good info on the site PMT, and yes it does work

 

PMT ........DOH SO THAT'S WHY I GET SO MOODY AND IRRATIONAL

i'm going to search out as much info as i can and give it a go,maybe then i can start restoring older stoves instead of paying top whack on "near new" if i carry on like this i might even get a proper stove, 3 leg paraffin with silent burner any recommendations for one to try as a starting point,pref one that won't cost the earth and readily available on ebay and easy to get spares for

 

THIS is a good place to start...

 

nice one David been and read it, also bookmarked for reference, i have got a couple of questions though...........
what is our equivalent of lye I'm guessing caustic soda
also i have access to hydrogen peroxide and phosphoric acid both pretty caustic would either of those be any use in stripping the crud off (the phosphoric acid ate a hole in my carpet when i spilled some so is fairly strong )
most of the other paraphernalia i have already got

 

Yes, correct. But if you read further down, he describes the electrolysis method and says he'll never use the lye method again - nor would I. You mentioned electrolysis and that's what the main part of that page refers to and it was that I was meaning you to read...

BTW, TSP is tri-sodium phosphate which is not 'washing soda' - that's sodium carbonate.

I haven't a clue, and you wouldn't catch me using either of them so I'm definitely not recommending them to you...

 

thanks David
i did read all of it, and i do understand that the electrolysis is the preferred method but being inquisitive i thought i'd find out the alternatives,and what the chemicals used are,i would not want to use caustic soda either if i can avoid it but still nice to know alternate method's,but it leaves me with another question what is tri-sodium phosphate known as over here is there a brand name or do i need a chemists to get it for me ?

 

I recently tried to buy more TSP from my local 'Big Box' store, and was told I'd have to go over to the next County, as Mine had banned the stuff. I lucked out and found some at the local 99 cent store, so I bought 6 boxes.
Santa Barbara county (where I live) is the most restrictive place anywhere. You cannot buy most solvents, insecticides, effective cleaners or preservatives. The 'Beautiful People' won't allow such poisons.....They can afford to buy them somewhere else.!

 

Counties can do that in Cal?

 

Oh, yeah !
They have run out most of the industries, anything using 'non green'
Just like silicon Valley...

 

david i did a bit of reading on phosphoric acid it may be worth trying it after all wiki says this about it

Rust removal

Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water-soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted, it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer." It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats.

also this

Rust bluing was developed between hot and cold bluing processes. It was originally used by gunsmiths in the 19th century to blue firearms prior to the development of hot bluing processes. The process was to coat the gun parts in an acid solution, let the parts rust uniformly, then immerse the parts in boiling water to stabilize the rusting process by removing any remaining residue from the applied acid solution. Then the rust was karded (scrubbed) off, leaving a deep blue finish. This process was later abandoned by major firearm manufacturers as it often took parts days to finish completely, and was very labor intensive. It is still sometimes used by gunsmiths to obtain an authentic finish for a period gun of the time that rust bluing was in vogue, analogous to the use of browning on earlier representative firearm replicas.

going to have to try that out i can think of a few uses for the bluing

 

Hey Cabriolet,
Nice batch of 8s; I guess you'll be the organizer for your local WOED- Worldwide Optimus Eight Day - extravaganza on August 8 (8-8-08) when the faithful celebreight the eight in all its varieihtions; 8, 8R, 99, 9, 22, 111, hybrids and clones.

Oops, beautiful job on that 22 - it would make a fine centerpiece for your local WOED celebreightion, be sure to post photos.

Baja, yes, we are beautiful (I've posted the photos to prove it) we send servants to Los Angeles County to obtain and dump our toxins and for croissants and caviar each morning.

How big is an 8R case- let's see; 100 square inches inside and out? That's not a hell of a lot of sanding to prepare it for painting and there's no toxic waste to dispose of and I really don't think it would take any longer than Naval Jellying to remove the rust, then paint stripping to remove the paint, then cleaning to remove the stripper then sanding to provide tooth for the paint. I think I'd start with 180-grit and work it through 400-grit prior to painting. And, while chemicals will remove rust, they won't smooth any pitting left by the rust.
I'm thinking about electroless nickel on the bare steel before paint; if I do that, some day, I'll post.

I'm very happy to see all the activity in anticipeightion of WOED; more popular than the Olympics, less painful than the World Cup, cheaper than Formula One, twice the fun with half the hangover - YAY WOED!

L8R,
Gary