A 1982 Sailboat I recently purchased came with a copper version of the "Victory" stove in a beautiful teak and ceramic tile cabinet to be mounted on the forward bulhead of the main cabin with a flue going up throught the cabin top. The flue pipe is missing, but the instructions call for a 28mm corrogated fleixble stainless steel pipe. Can anyone tell me where to purchase this type of flue pipe? I imagine I could just fashion something from copper plumbing pipe, but it would be nice tho have the original flue. I just attempted to light the "Victory" after pumping pressure for at lease a minute and preheating the burner with alcohol for about the same amount of time. Thers is a small pressure guage on the tank which did not move from zero and, when I open the valve to light the burner, the fuel flares but will not vaporize. Any suggestions? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Capt. Gary W. Cassidy, USCG Master capcass@optonline.net
Hi, Unless you can get the tank pressurised you are wasting your time trying to prime and light the burner! The most likely causes of non-pressurisation of the tank are: 1. Dried out or worn pump washer. These are often made of leather, in a cup shape. If the washer is dried out, soak it in olive oil, neatsfoot oil or a light mineral oil , then re-install in the pump tube. If the leather is torn or very worn, buy a new one and replace it. 2. Stuck or non-sealing non-return valve. If your pump leather is in good condition but you get great resistance when trying to pump, it is likely that the NRV, usually located at the base of the pump cylinder, is stuck. To free it, remove the pump internals, half-fill the cylinder with alcohol or kerosene, relace the pump internals, and press down really hard on the pump-knob. If the NRV is stuck, the pressurised liquid will often free it. 3. Leaking seal on filler cap. If you examine the nitrile rubber seal on the filler cap, it should be compressible. If you press a blunt point into the rubber it should compress and then spring back. If it doesn't chances are that the cap seal needs replacement. Cut one from petroleum-resistant sheet rubber, or for trials use an "O-ring" Remember that you should never fill the tank more than three-quarters full of kerosene. You need the air-space for pressurisation. Try these checks/possible cures. If they don't work come back and someone will offer additional advice. Good Luck, Best Regards, Kerophile.
I'd also check the pressure guage actually still works as well. If the the heater hasn't been used for some time there could be a combination of issues. It might save some tail chasing by sorting one thing at a time and with a working pressure guage it will help to indicate whether you are at least getting pressure prior to trying to move on to lighting the stove. Or alternatively if you know the pressure guage definitely isn't working you can disregard it as you work on fettling potential issues.
If the fuel is flaring big time, them it looks as though the gauge isn't working. Try preheating more and pumping less - just a few strokes when the pre-heat is dying down to start with. When it has been running for a minute or two you can increase the pressure. Ian
