optimus 11 stuck nrv need easy out set advice

hi All
i have an Optimus 11 that has a nrv firmly stuck in the pump tube,
i have chewed the head of the nrv, so an nrv tool is no longer any use,could some one recommend a place to buy a good quality easy out screw extractor set that will do the trick ideally a set long enough to use in a normal length pump tube ie 111 as well (the 11 is a short stroke pump)
i really really don't want to remove the pump tube or i might as well bin the tank as i have no soldering experience
i have checked ebay but i don't know the good from the bad so thought it better to ask advice first

atb Bill

 

Bill
Not sure there is such a beast as a long reach easyout.
They have to be short and stubby otherwise they'd simply break off.
Pump tube out I'm afraid

 

hi Henry
i have been reading a few old posts and found one by algentry here
lucky for me the 11 pump tube is the larger size but only short so if i can get a socket to fit i'll see if i can get an easy out like al used
the drill bit should be no problem as it doesn't need to reach that far,really not looking forward to it but the stove has been sat here to long
i need to get a hinge on the case sorted as well not one of my best buys but will be worth it in the end

 

Hi Bill,

I seem to remember other people have used these pin vice chucks to get to the bottom of the tube with a screw extractor?

Pin Vice Chuck

Cheers, Graham.

 

You could try using the tang of a file into the nrv hole to get a bit of purchase. A small rattail or sq. file(or anything w/ a suitable tang)& a baby stillsons or molegrips might do it.

 

Hello,
You are going to have to remove the pump tube. The fact that you have stripped the nrv in place is a pretty good indicator that it is firmly in place and it may even be soldered onto the tube. It is a scary process but once you have the tube out you can begin the process. Welcome to an advanced fettle. I have a shelf full of stuff that needs this type of attention. Normally I bring the stove with me to a meet and ask Doug for help. He has the tools to get the job done right.

Chuck

 

there is a type of easy out that i have seen for sale in the states, they look like a socket set at sears Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover

Specialty socket set designed to easily remove rounded, damaged or corroded nuts, bolts, wheel lugs, pipes, pipe nipples or studs. Fits sizes 3/8 to ..

i don't know if these will help


Craftsman 5 pc. Power Bolt-out® Set
Here's an easy way to remove damaged bolts, screws and nuts. Made of high carbon steel, it's tougher than tool steel, with reverse spiral flutes for maximum gripping power and a larger shank that resists shearing. Works with most drills, impact drives and nut runners, and fits most standard and metric screws and bolts.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ame=Tools&keyword=easy+outs#descriptionAnchor

 

thanks all
i'll see if i can use an easy out first if not i'll have to start reading up on pump tube removal but with the filler being so close to the pump i really don't think i'll pull it off wrong choice of words there think positive Bill

 

They're normally only bedded on a lead washer, the base of the pump tube is less than 1/8" thick so there's not a lot of thread holding it in. Get a punch or a long bolt, put it down the tube on top of the NRV and give it some sharp taps with a hammer. This may squish the lead a bit and rattle the threads enough to loosen it. It's only brass to brass so no real corrosion to talk about. Be careful not to dent the tank in. Drill a hole in it and try Ian's file tang method. Don't forget to take some photos so that we can see the cock up

 

Thing is Para, if you pock and prod down that tube with easy outs, or file tangs, and it still won't shift, Then you've buggered up the NRV, and will still have to pull out the tube.

At this stage you will have to get another NRV.

Having said all that, it is a bit daunting the first time, if you're not used to soldering.

There are no legs to worry about, wrap some wet kitchen towel around the filler and get the blow lamp going !

 

ok right let's put things in some kind of perspective i'm a total to55er when it comes to metalwork but i am a city and guilds qualified carpenter (2xC&G's) so am not a total - offensive term removed by moderator - using my hands
i have no soldering equipment no solder no flux nothing,i don't have a clue what i need to buy to tackle a pump tube removal but am well up for it as i have a few stoves i can practice on first so what do i need ?
a torch are the butane refillable pencil type ones up to it ? or should i just bite the bullet and get something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SIEVERT-PROPANE-GAS-JEWELLERS-BLOW-TORCH-KIT-BLOWLAMP_W0QQitemZ130319291978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ?hash=item1e57a2964a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A16|66%3A3|39%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A100]link[/url] or is this ott?
what kind of flux and solder and is there anything else i should have before i attempt it

 

As it stands the NRV is buggered :frown: ..the flats having become rounds .
With an'easy out'remover & brass Ive experienced 100% failure rate ... the brass resists grabbing the tool.
Has anyone removed a pump tube from a 111 or 11?? Ive tried (111)& failed .. I think the pump is silver soldered into the tank & not soft soldered like the 3 leggers.. Ive done 1/2 doz. or so 3 leg pump tubes out , no problem .
My reckoning that if youve applied sufficient torque with a correct fitting key & the NRV has not moved & has distorted the brass flats then its pump tube removal time . :frown: .
Nick

 

What type of removal tool are you using

 

Hi, I agree with Nick. My experience of "easy outs" is that they expand the brass NRV head, such that it just binds tighter in the base of the pump cylinder.
I think you will have to remove the pump tube and then extract the old pieces and replace with a brand new NRV.
I've just checked 3 x 111 stoves, of differnet vintages, and they appear to have their pump tubes soft-soldered into the tanks.

Good Luck,
Kerophile

 

first i tried the 111 multikey but it broke the end of the multikey so i bought a monitor one but i had already buggered the nrv so that didn't work

 

Hi George,

you mention getting a brand new NRV, so far I don't need one of those, but are they still to be found? I did see some of a slightly different form for sale on Ebay, from a Taiwanese seller IIRC. Would those fit, and are they any good? (and now that I've mentioned this Taiwanese seller, he also sells lamp-mantles, anyone have any experience with these?)

Regards,

Wim

 

Hi Wim, you can buy new Swedish NRVs from Base Camp.
The NRVs sold by the Ebay seller from Thailand are for Petromax-type pressure lamps, and do NOT fit classic stoves. I just tried some tonight!

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Thanks George! (seems I mixed-up on Thailand and Taiwan, must be getting old I guess... )

Regards,

Wim

 

a pic of the nrv

 

Hi Bill

A couple of years ago Nick ( brassnipplekey ) sent me a very nifty set of tools which I used to remove a broken off air screw, they looked like this :



It worked a treat once I had removed the remains of the air screw to the shoulder - thanks again Nick.
You need something like the one on the right, but fitted to a long handle. It will work best if you could carefully drill some of the top of the NRV away and then just tap it into the brass hole and a quick twist should move it.
At the risk of becoming known as "Billy Boil" a good dose of boiling water will help things along I'm sure.

Ian's idea of using a file tang could also be worth a go, I'd file it up to sharpen the edges first, to get better bite.

I'd try everything before removing the pump tube on the basis that it's buggered already !

Good luck !