cleaning needle replacement for a primus 41

does the needle unscrew from the toothed housing?.. where mite i find these parts..tnx for all ur past advice(i looked up in the parts forum and noticed a needle #4160/the burner i have is silent)...k

 

Hello,

Your a luck man to have a Primus 41 Sp

I don't have one of these stoves but if it is anything like the Optimus 111 burner then...

You have to remove the jet from the burner first. Make sure that the stove is not pressurize and then turn the control knob counter clockwise all the way. Without the jet in the way the cleaning needle should just climb out. I hope that helps.

Jeff

 

tnx for the reply...i have had the cleaning needle out and after cleaning and inspecting and cross referencing ...i think this is a 4155 burner?...like i know...does a modern optimus 111 burner replace the needle or the whole toothed assembly...i will try to get a pic up tommorrow ...k

 

HI k. The needle is an integral part of the toothed assembly, so the item has to be replaced.
Regards,
Kerophile.

 

i noticed awhile back u mention u had outer caps for a p-5...wud they fit a primus 5 S-or..i am curious the dimensions of the inner and outer caps..tnx for ur response on the 41...am investigating to see if the cleaning needle is the removable type...k-chunk

 

tnx...any idea how and where i go abt replacing this?...i thought i had a 4155 burner but i am not sure now...k

 

Hi K. Yes, I believe that the silent caps of the burners used on No5 and No.5S:or stoves are the same size. Here are some dimensions I posted in an earlier thread:

Here as promised are the dimensions I took of some silent burner caps;

Primus No.4 stove;
Inner Cap = 33.5mmOD, but lip at bottom extends to about 35mm diam. Centre hole diam.= 16.3mm, Height = 14.5mm
Outer Cap = 38mm OD, but about 40mm on lower lip. Height at max, the top is domed, = 24mm. 5 Rows of holes.


Primus No.5 stove;
Inner Cap = 39.5mmOD, 42mmOD on bottom lip. Centre hole diam. = 16.4mm. Max Height = 16mm
Outer Cap = 44.6mm OD, 47mm on bottom lip. Max. Height = 26mm. 4 Rows of holes.


Primus No.6 or No.25 (# 4142)
Inner Cap = 44mmOD, 45mmOD on bottom lip. Centre hole diam. = 16.4mm. Max Height = 20mm.
Outer Cap = 49mmOD, 52mmOD on bottom lip. Max Ht = 26mm. 5 or 6 Rows of holes.

If you need a replacement outer cap send me a PM.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi k, a few years ago we had a post on CCS from a member who had successfully replaced the needle in a jet cleaning assembly, by extracting the old one and crimping in a suitably sized replacement.

It must have been difficult as the steel needle is very hard compared to the soft brass of the body of the assembly, and a is factory-fitted.

It might be worth a try if you are "handy" in a workshop. The jet aperture will be around 0.32mm diameter, so you should look for a 0.28-0.30mm stiff wire as a replacement.

Alternatively, if you measure up the diameter, length, and number of teeth of your present assembly someone will could advise you as to whether a Primus or Optimus replacement will fit.

I have myself successfully fitted an Optimus jet cleaning assembly to a Radius regulated burner.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi "K"

Have a look at this post from when I fettled my 41:

Primus 41

As you will see I used a chopped up 111 spindle during my refurb. I seem to remember the original 41 needle was knackered so I probably dropped a new 111 needle in there. Therefore my view is that a 111 needle should work OK (although I'd feel more comfortable with that statement if I could remember that I definitely replaced mine).

Cheers, Graham.

 

Hi all; I have no idea what this particular assembly looks like. However if it is anything like a Coleman with brass rod and pricker/wire on the end I have repaired these many times by cutting a tine off a wire brush and replacing the original wire with it by removing, re drilling and crimping. These repairs last indefinitely. Mike...

 

Hi Mike,

Only sort of like a Coleman. It's a lot shorter rather than being a rod. The Primus/Optimus type cleaning needles are a small machined brass block with gear teeth on one face that interfaces with a worm drive on the control spindle for raising and lowering the needle.

I've looked at these previously with a view to needle replacement. Rather than the crimping method mentioned by yourself and kerophile I've wondered whether a small hole drilled and tapped in the side with a (very) small grub screw might be a suitable fix to hold a replacement wire in place. As I've not got any small taps to hand I've never bothered trying it. Another "wet Sunday afternoon project" for sometime in the future.....

Cheers, Graham.

 

Graham: I think I found a pic of the correct part. It looks as though one could peen the flat surface around the wire to affix it in place. I believe though viable, the set screw idea may be problematic and a lot of work. Mike...

 

here r sum pix of the cleaning needle assembly(5 tooth?) sans needle...what is the ball bearing looking thing at the rear of unit?...k
...like the idea of drill and crimping...but what to drill a .28mm hole...i really like this site...k

 

It looks like a Optimus 111 cleaning needle will work. Though not original their easier to find.

Here are some shots of the Optimus cleaning rack and needle.
It is 15.30 mm overall in height. (from tip of needle to bottom of the rack)
From the bottom of the needle to the bottom of the rack is 12mm
and is 3.92mm (4mm) square including the teeth.



I hope this helps.
Jeff

 

hi jeff, this IS a big help.. these measurements match...so all i need do i locate a cleaning needle for any optimus 111..way cool, tnx...k
ps...a previous post mentioned a set screw and the more i look at the pix of the primus needle assembly i think that mite be a sheared set screw at the back of the tooth housing...k

 

Great News!

I figured that it was the same or similar. Optimus and Primus did copy each others work often; and still do.

Well finding one shouldn't be too hard. The 8r used the same 5 tooth rack.
there is one for sale on ebay in a kit for 18 dollars

Shame to buy the whole kit. The cleaning needles pop up on ebay from time to time for about 7 or 10 dollars.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

Hi k. Thanks for posting the photos. It looks as if your needle is a separate item,held in a tiny carrier, which screws into the main body of the assembly.

Replaceable needles were a feature of some early stoves and lamps and were a much cheaper solution than replacing the whole needle/rack assembly.
Check out this post:

https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/120452

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

asked my dentist for his expertise...spot on! i think...but stove did not work at all now...so cleaned out the burner(a solution garnered in a rather convoluted manner)...still no worky...then poked around at the end of the spindle housing..and discovered yrs of rust and gunk now travelling thru the stove... sorta flushed it...and fired it up...WOW!!!(at least for me...i am new at this)...now i realize most of the stoves i have need to be douched...i am truly appreciative of this site cuz the folks r respectful and helpful...which is harder and harder to find in my opinion...i wud never hav e this stove going if u guys(and gals?) had not willingly offered specs/comparative and replacement types ..the knowledge of ur experiences!!...tnx...k-chunk

 

Excellent work! thanks for sharing.

How is the pump leather and (NRV) non return valve. ( one way valve in the bottom of pump tube)

I looks like your stove could be doing a little better in btu output. That said it looks like it is working well. If the flame dies down after you stop pumping then you might be losing pressure from the tank filler gasket. Or from the Non return valve even.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

Hi k, I am glad that you were able to replace the cleaning needle successfully. The rack looks as good as new.
Good luck with the rest of the fettle:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/3963

https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/64230

Best Regards,
Kerophile