Peak I Apex II Hose Replacement

Hi everyone. I bought a Peak I Apex II stove off the dock of the bay, while I was sittin' and wasting time. I got it for really cheap and didn't find out why until after I had received it. I wish those guys at the bay would describe things a little better. I was pretty torqued about the problem I found, which was a split hose. A new one can not be bought without the pump, etc., and would have cost me more than what I paid for the ignorant thing. I have two others that I really like and use often, besides my SVEA 123.

Anyway, I figured, hey, it's just a fuel line with a little insulation and wire braid wrapped around that, I'll just get some fuel line from the auto parts store and see what that does.

Down below, I have pictures of what I did to replace the fuel line between pump and stove connector. My questions are:

1. Is there any reason that this is not safe.
2. If not safe, is there anything I can do to make this safe.
3. Does making the fuel line longer have any long term effects. I made this one longer.
4. Any other issues I should be aware of?

Here are the specs on the hose from Goodyear Products:

Application:

A multipurpose fuel hose that can be used as a fuel line, PCV connection, emission control line or fuel return line.

Specific Fuel:

Leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel, gasoline blends of ethanol (E10), E-85 and sour gas.

Construction:

Tube: Black Chemigum (NBR)
Reinforcement: 2-Spiral Synthetic
Cover: Black Hypalon* (CSM)

Temperature Range F & C: -40˚F to +257˚F (-40˚C to +125˚C)
SAE Specifications: SAE J30R7
Goodyear EP Specifications: 580019
Length: See table below. 1.6', 2' (clamshell), 25' (spool), 250' (reel)
Brand Layline: 5/16" (7.9mm) 50 psi Fuel/Emission SAE J30R7
Made in USA Goodyear
Installation: See selection of Goodyear Engineered Products clamps and connectors


Product #: 65125
Inside Diameter: 3/16
Outside Diameter: 0.41
Length sold: 25 feet
Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Burst Pressure: 250 PSI
Weight lbs/ft: 0.06

Here's the web link: Good Year Engineered Products

Here's what I did to replace the hose:

Well, here's my other Apex II with a working bottle, pump and hose for reference. You can see that there are brass clamps at the end of the hose that holds the braided hose on. I had to cut those off very carefully and was able to get the hose off both the pump and the connector on the other end.




Here's the hose. It has the outer braid and then insulation and finally the hose. What I found was a very brittle, plastic tube instead of something softer. I could see why it split being so brittle that any bending would have broken it.







Here's the connector on the other end. I was able to cut the brass clamp and pull this off without damaging it. I used a Dremel cutter wheel and carefully split the clamp along the clamp's length.




Here's the automotive fuel line with 3/16 inch inside diameter.




Here's the connector and the new fuel line with a small hose clamp.





Here it is all put together. I repeated the cutting of the clamp near the pump the same as the other end. If you do this you have to be careful not to push the cutter all the way through, otherwise you could damage brass insert.





A comparison of the lengths of hose. I used 12 inches of the fuel line because I figured it would be a lot easier to pump and not move the stove while doing so and also puts the fuel twice as far away from the stove.





Here they are connected to their respective stoves.





Okay, so I have it working here.





Boiled some water....




sam

 

Hey, Sam,

Looks like it worked OK. My only worry is that the rubber hose is unprotected from heat, fire, and other things that could damage it. I guess it gets pretty hot under the hood of a car, too, so maybe my worries are unfounded. Interesting fix, nonetheless, for what I consider a good and worthy stove. My biggest complaint about that stove, is the horrible yellow pump gasket that Coleman used to offer with it!! POS, as far as I'm concerned, and the sooner replaced, the better. Otherwise, a great stove. We've used ours even in the cold, and with some good priming paste, it burns either Coleman fuel, or kerosene (with the proper generator), wonderfully! Thanks for sharing, and congrats on getting another fine Coleman Apex II stove. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

I did the same thing with mine and it has lasted fine, it out lasted the now dead pump! I took mine to a gas place and they crimped me up a new fuel line with a mesh cover on it. It was much thicker than the factory one but the same length.

I like your long one, it looks flexible too, which the factory one is not.

I think this is a fantastic stove, quiet, sable, light and it has a great simmer.

Well done on the repair.

 

Yeah, my worry too is the exposed rubber hose. The hose is quite thick and is supposed to be able to take up to 247F temperaturs. Maybe I should take a piece and light it on fire to see what it does? I don't know. I'm going to keep my fire extinguisher handy and test this thing for quite a while (maybe a few months?).

About that whacky yellow O-ring, I bought some nitrile O-rings online, which seem a lot tougher than the Coleman ones. Haven't had a issues so far with my other stoves and this one. We shall see...

sam

 

What was the mesh cover that you are talking about. Is it the same as the wire braid in my pictures or something different? Just wondering if this was something I could pursue here in the states.

sam

 

It was the same as the one that was on the stove already (yes like yours in the pic) but it was larger diameter as I used a fatter fuel line. No Pics sorry as my stoves are packed away. It looks like something that would be used to cover fuel lines in cars (to make them pretty) or on gas stoves etc. I would ask at a plumbing store. The workshop that fixed mine was one of those big old family hardware stores that still has a service department.
Rather than using hose claps they crimped on the fuel line with a stainless steel (I think) fitting at each end that was slipped over the fuel line.

 

Sam, you can buy the stainless sleeve for your hose and google "magna clamp" used in automotive hoses, they are good and look good too! As Doc said, his only worry is heat that would touch the rubber. Other than that, your setup looks good with the replacement rubber hose

 

Hi Idahostoveguy.

A nice repair, the only thing that comes to mind is that when You "turn" it off
by turning the bottle upside down, Your new fuelhose will have a larger quantity of fuel in it,
so it will take a little more (or lots) time for the stove to burn off, and ventilate the bottle..

I guess that a carfuel line is tough and can handle temperatures over the normal,
but might one suggest that a metalbraid over the line should add extra safety.

I guess that a metalbraided brakeline or a hydraulic line should do the trick,
and at most hydraulicshops they can crimp the connection to perfection.

Best regards

Uffe

 

A motor cycle shop may have also the braided line and tools to do a nice custom job.

 

Mine had been done the same way as yours but a stainless steel braided hose was used. Same ugly hose clamps that do the job well but dont exactly look the part. Its a common repair

 

good stuff
good hose

you can take metalbraid from water supply hose its easy to remove and put on.

But i think there is no need in it

 

The Coleman set-up doesn't work that way. I think its unique with a split hose one going the the bottom of the bottle for fuel and one going to the top to mix air in before it gets to the burner. If you turned this bottle over its probable that nothing would happen. It also means you have to pump the Coleman more often than other stoves but its part of how the instant start system works.
Braided fuel line is available at all boy racer shops

 

On a side note what sort of boil times should these stoves achieve?
Mine with moderate pressure boils a litre of water in about 5 minutes but if you pump it a little more it starts chuffing, the flame tips turn yellow and the flame extends out so most misses the pot. The result is no faster. Is this normal or do I have a problem.

 

So far the only good thing i've seen to these stoves is the lunerlander feet.

Something about seperating the stove from it's fuel supply via hose just turns me off. I guess it's the sailor in me which sees a potental for unwanted fire from a failure of the hose, or a hose to fuel bottle or hose to stove connection.

lance

 

Morning, All,

I like the Peak 1 Apex II stoves, and think they are very well designed. We've used ours up in the Sierra Nevada, and even in very cold weather, they seem to fire right up. We have also burned a good bit of kero in ours, with the proper generator attached, and after priming the generator with Meths paste, it goes wonderfully. Simmers well, too, which we like, and the windscreen setup, borrowed from an MSR stoves, is fantastically effective.

A five to six minute boil for a quart of water is just about perfect for this stove. It will not do any better, unless by outright luck, and is performing up to it's spec. If you pump more, you don't get more heat, after a certain point.

Lance, I know you don't like "plug and play" stoves, as I like to call them, but I like them, most certainly. I've only had one failure with such a stove, MSR pump massive failure, which caused any real concern. But, for most all the time, if you know what you're about, such stoves are easy to use, work well, and are quite reliable. I understand your concerns, but have never had that many problems with such stoves, and so, other than plastic pumps breaking, only one of which resulted in a fireball, I trust my "plug and play" stoves, completely. For what it's worth...

Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

I've had 5 to 6 minute times on a litre of water depending on the day and temperature, etc.

As for the chuffing, I don't know about anyone else, but I've been able to stop the chuffing by cleaning out the generator or putting in a whole new one. That's if you mean chuffing that occurs at about a 1-second interval. Also, chuffing seems to occur, for me, most frequently when the temperature is really low, like below 10F, especially when the fuel in the bottle is cold. I believe this is a good sign that the generator is the culprit.

On another note, I put some metal braid on my fuel line. I haven't yet received clamps for this yet, so the braiding sags a bit until I can do the official fitting with new clamps. I got the braid from some old plumbing. I wanted to show some progress on this...

 

official fittings with clamping
1) are hard to get
2) specialized pressing machine needed


please, show us the decision

P.S. many thanks for proper hose DIN
Grigoriy

 

With this discussion I just went out to try these things on my stove and noticed one of the tubes missing on the pump. If its gone where I think its gone its gone forever. This is the short pipe that attaches to the elbow on the long pipe. Please could someone tell me if this is meant to be a simple pipe or does it have anything else attached and how long is it.
I should be able to get a suitable pipe fairly easily I hope
thanks in advance

 

So Sam, did you go with the Magna Clamps I recommended or are you going to crimp those ends?

Ron

 

Here's a picture of my pump and tubes. It's upside down. Your fuel bottle should show how these are to be pointed after you insert the pump.

sam