Courtesy of ebayer Mary Fogle aka Toymaster4 There appears to be three parts to the burner cap - inner, outer & a mushroom type cap or restrictor that likely sits under the 2 conventional caps. The catalogue on the site only shows the whole burner
Hi Ross I was watching this one myself, the other night on Ebay USA. It would have been a cracking addition to my 2 22's and 22B, but my pocket was not that deep that night. Oh well - keep hoping ! Ian
Hi, Ian, I lucked into one of those neat 22B Meths stoves "on the bay", a while back. Mine appears to have never been fired. I'll try to post some photos of it, here. Great stove, and well worth seeking out for your collection. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Well, I bought one just like it, and no, I can't figure it out! When the mushroom shaped restrictor is as shown in the photos, https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/129982 the flame is weak, and when turned up, blows itself out. If the restrictor is placed upside down under the two caps, the flame works perfect until the cap gets red hot, then it jumps inside the burner and roars. I have cleaned every part, and even checked the flow rate of the alcohol jets against an alcohol jet (cat. no. 2508) from a "new" 111-Hiker. There's got to be something I've missed. BTW my 22 came with the burners assembled with the restrictor on top, just as in the fore mentioned pictures. I have not been able to find any diagrams of the insides of this burner, so any help would be much appreciated. This is my firt posting on Classic Camp Stoves.
Alright, in the absence of any comments after my last post, I have put a brass screw and nut in two of the four air vents under each burner, and that has corrected the air to fuel ratio temporarily. We've cooked pancakes for our extended family in two campsites with this set-up, and functionally it is fine. However I still can't believe this is the correct solution. Oh well, I've got blue flame, maybe I should just let it be and move on...
A belated welcome to CCS! You have a rare burner there. I've never seen one or used one. The only diagram I have doesn't show the breakdown. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/9234
Hello sightglass. I had a marine alcohol stove with the same burners. The burner caps are assembled with the inner cap placed on top of the burner(holed dome up), then the mushroomed restrictor tube pushed down into the top fully. The outer cap is then placed over the top with the tabs going through the slots in the burner skirt. The tabs have a slight bend outwards underneath to keep the full assembly down and in place. The slight bend is so the outer cap can be removed easily later with a little finger pressure helping the tabs through the slots. Operation: Seal the 3/4 filled fueled tank with both burner taps closed clockwise, pump air into the tank to pressurise it(about 25-30 full pumps), open the fuel tap(s) anti-clockwise a little to let the preheater dish fill under the burner(s) then close again. Ignite the meths in the preheater dish(s). When it has fully burnt out, quickly open the fuel tap a little anti-clockwise again then lite the gas emitting from the little holes in the outer cap. Once the burner is operating, let it burn for about a minute or so to get it operating at the right temperature before turning up the flames fully(about half way from fully closed to where the pricker is fully activated in the anti-clockwise direction). Once your stove is operating properly, you can then pump more air into the tank untill a noticable pressure is felt through the pump rod. Do not over pressurise. I never had any problems with mine but I found it rather thirsty. Cheers. I hope this helps.
Alcohol only contains 2/3'rd the energy of petrol or kero. So it takes 50% more to cover the same cooking
I'll have to try lighting my 45A this way, prime like I have been doing, then touch a flame to the burner instead of waiting for the prime flame to light the burner. I see no one has much experience with these. Flying by instinct.
