A quick procedure for those in need of or interested in making their own draughtshield for the Primus 100-type burners (lipstick stove, cone vaporizer). The same idea can be used on the smaller cone vaporizers like the Primus 96 and 97's, just use a smaller diameter tin (2 2/3" or 6.8 cm). I don't like the original types that came with these burners - either the thin plated metal ones or the cylindrical brass/nickel-plated versions with the holes. Neither cover the burner bell sufficiently (at all) so they can easily get blown out in a wind, the plated ones often fall and are hard to position at times and the 2-piece hinged ones have too many holes, too short and don't provide sufficient protection. Metal edges can be sharp, especially the newly cut ones, so gloves can be worn if required. Also, cutting with shears produce small (and large) metal fragments - collect them all and dispose of properly (metal recycle container). Progression from left to right. Unopened can (Friskies cat food in this example) to finished burner pre-heater/draughtshield. A proper sized can would be 3" in diameter (7.6 cm). Because we're not using the top rim for anything (e.g. not for a silent burner), any can that meets the diameter requirement will do. Procedure 1) Buy or get yourself a tin can. The ones with waffled ridges are preferable to help as guides when sizing/measuring/cutting. Also, avoid cans with vertical seams (weak). 2) Empty contents (feed to cat/dog/person/neighbor/etc), remove label and clean thoroughly (dishwasher...). 3) Remove label remnants and sticky residue with Goo Gone or similar cleaner. 4) Flip can upside down (so end with solid bottom is up) and cut the can to size with Dremel or tin snips (cut from the top, already open end). To help measure, place the tin beside or overtop the burner bell sitting on the vaporizer tube. Cut the tin so when deployed it's just above the top rim of the spirit dish. Next, cut from the center out a hole in the top of the tin to within a 1/4" or 0.6 cm of the tin edge (e.g. leave a flange). Cut 1 two sided slot, 1/3" or 0.8 cm wide, along one edge to end of the tin. Cut another directly across on the opposite side of the tin. Place the tin over top of burner bell with the burner plate deployed and cut the remaining 2 holes accordingly (e.g. half-way between the first two, North/South, holes). 5) Using pliers, bend down the little flanges to near flush with the side of the can. You can also cut them out if desired. Place over top the burner bell/burner plate and make sure it sits evenly on bell edge and hole alignment with plate arms is fine (lots of room). Smooth down the edges/remove metal burrs with grinder (file/dremel/other). Wipe clean, allow to dry. 6) Using heat-resistant paint, spray it with your color of choice (if you have any besides black...). Let dry, do a 2nd coat and done. Close-up of #'s 4-6, showing the slit locations. The flame spreader's 4 arm supports fit neatly in the cut out slots. Side profile. One could cut another hole further up to access the top hole in the cone vaporizer to clean the jet during operation (if blocked). I tend to prick them before priming and haven't had one get blocked during their run time. One of the drawbacks to this type is they are not as packable as the originals they are replacing. In the larger tins they can fit ok, but for the smaller Primus 96/97 'L' and '/4' they need to be packed in something else anyway so just make sure it's sized to fit one of these (or pack them in something else).
Appending: In Step 4, cut a cone shaped opening to allow access to the spirit dish for alcohol dispensing into priming dish. Also allows the user to manage the priming in terms of when to light the stove, etc. In Step 5 cut or grind any sharp edges to round corners, such as the priming slit - looks neater and avoids skin/clothes cuts.
Glad you found it helpful. I should have mentioned the length, which is each standard for their respective burners. Primus 96/97: 2 3/4" or 6 cm Primus/Svea/Radius/Optimus 100: 3" or 7.5 cm From left - Primus 96, Optimus 200, Primus 100. I still have to paint the middle one. Full coverage of the burner bell and down to the spirit cup. Top view, same stoves: Showing the stoves setup with their original draughtshield. Notice the poor coverage of the burner bell and overall design handicap on a few levels. I've had these types of burners blow out in the wind as it easily passes through the fully exposed slits in the burner bell. They don't blow out with these custom-fit, full length draughtshields. Even the silent damper is now better protected when in play. You can make them for the Radius 19, 20, equivalent British type models, etc.
