I have the Enders 9060 clean and complete with the exception of the wick. I have not removed the valve stem, but, that may not be necessary. I have seen a small bit of the wick in the fill tube and it has the tell-tale 'OLD' color brown. When pumped up, the flow of liquid, out the other end of the fuel line, without a jet/nipple seems slow, so I can safely assume the wick is in bad shape. The trouble is that the tube is so well connected to the tank, the tube twists before it comes free. I have tried this contraption. But, will do something different if the next heat and twist session does not free it up. I drilled a hole through both boards to fit the burner pieces where the spirit cup and the burner bell attach. I think I will have to make a split clamp to hold the tube more securely as close as I can get to the tank. That may reduce the twisting. I got a PM suggesting I get the joint very hot. I believe that will be what happens to get this apart. Ken in NC (Just trying not to muck it up)
Hi Ken Looking good so far. With all due respect, I'm thinking it might be safer to use a tight-fitting wrench on the hex nut of the tank join rather than attempting to spin off the burner/fuel feed assembly using clamping arrangements. A 14mm looks to be the right size. If you have, or have access to, these sorts of brake line wrenches, many here at CCS have found them to be helpful in avoiding damaging the mounting nuts on stoves. (They've proven to be a good investment for me.) They surround the hex nut better than a open end or adjustable open end wrench. A box wrench is another good choice, especially a six-point. (I'm not sure a twelve-point would be good here.) You could modify the box wrench by cutting the end to look like the brake line wrench so it could fit around the feed tube of the stove. If none of this is possible for you, you could consider clamping the feed tube nut in your bench vise using some copper sheet for pads to prevent damage to the nut. Then, you can spin the tank free of the hex nut fitting on the fuel feed tube. Nice job on the burner bell repair in the other thread. A little flux cleaning up and it'll look great. Cheers, Gary (aka BernieDawg)
I wish I could, there isn't a hex there. Here is a close up of the photo above. And the tube bends 90° all the way to the burner joint. No hex anywhere on the tube. It looks just like this one .... Link I think the only way to get a safe grip is a split collet. I can make it out of square or hex stock, drill/bore a hole and split it to hold the tube and unscrew it. I always appreciate what you have to say. Thank you. I did clean the burner, but the photos will be in the gallery post. Ken in NC
Ooops! Right you are! My dumbness. Mine's the three-legged variety 9060. OK. One other thought. A piece of rubber inner tubing under a hose clamp tightened really tight. Rubber protects the brass tube from spalling. Hose clamp (jubilee clip in UK?) gives you something to torque on close to the threaded joint and can be vised up so you can apply the torque to the tank. Just a thought. Good luck and hope it all works out.
I actually like your idea better. I have a lot of hose clamps. That will be tuesday. Thanks, Ken in NC
Hi Ken, I think your only option is heat. The joint has thread locker in it. You could bend, or even worse, kink the tube. Here's a 9061 that I did, a while back: Enders 9061 Tank and Tube Once I heated the joint (very carefully) the tube came off with ease, like it was never torqued tightly in the first place. It has to be thread locked so that the tube sits the right direction in relation to the burner and tank when fitted. Hope that helps, sam
Yahoooooo!!! Party time!! I got the tube off without damage. It took A LOT of heat. For the last 2 weeks or more I have heated it up and tried turning the tank off the tube. No such luck. I have kept a bit of water in the tank to keep it from falling apart. I increased the heat each time carefully and produced no results. A few days ago, I tossed some of my caution out the window. I put the stove assembly in the fixture (wooden) seen above in the OP. I set the propane flame a bit higher than I have been and I did not have water in the tank. I put an Ove-Glove similar to this one on my right hand. I then proceeded to heat the joint. As I got to where I thought was hot enough I started to grab the tank and turn it CCW (Anti-Clockwise) somewhat gently. As I continued to heat the joint, I went beyond what I considered necessary heat. Smoke started pouring out of the tank openings. I kept heating and turning. Finally in a billow of smoke, the tank squeeeeked and moaned as it freed itself from the fuel line tube. I continued to keep the flame on the joint as I turned it the (more than) 4 turns to release it, as it was still squeeking. I turned off the torch and and then completely removed the tank from the tube. It is true, it took A LOT of heat to remove this. I had been heating and adding Kano Kroil every day for more than 2 weeks. Only high heat was able to release this tank. Here are some photos. More to come as I replace the wick, clean, and re-assemble the stove. Ken in NC You can see the charred wick. The fuel line. The fitting that the fuel line threads into. The filler tube. You can see the tail end of the wick and the end of the pump tube.
Bravo, Ken! That took some fearless fettling. Good on you! I look forward to the developing project as you reveal the progress.
Hello Ken, 10 points!! It's the same like I did last fall at my lamp- and sidecarmeeting: http://www.russengespannclique.de/16.Treffen-Seite-01.html There we did it on an russian R8 clone. Now let the Enders burn! RJ
Thank you. RJ, that was a very nice link. That is a nice location. The sidecar with the grill was something I would never believe, unless I saw it. Ken in NC
Somewhat frightening... But I may have to do that with my Primus 70... https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/27099
I don't remember a threaded joint as tight as the Enders. Somehow I don't think the thread lock is the problem on the Primus 70. I do not imagine needing that much heat to free the Primus 70. I would heat the joint, and put some penetrating fluid on it. (WD-40, Kano Kroil, ATF/Acetone mix ... Link ...) Let that sit for a day and try again, gently. Repeat as necessary. I use a strap wrench to hold the tank and a wrench on the riser. Others put the riser in a vise and turn the tank by hand. Ken in NC
YES!!!!! Thank you. You were the first to say "High Heat!" to remove the tube. I have some pictures, but they are not ready yet. I have lit it, and it seems a bit weak. I think I may have stuffed the wick in a bit too hard. I am hoping it is just a bit 'dirty' in the vaporizer. I put some Sea Foam in the tank and burned some Wednesday. I will light it again today and let it burn a while. I hope i don't have to take it apart again, and relieve the wick. Ken in NC
Running with a bit of Sea Foam, and pricking every few minutes (Off first, then re-light) the flame burst forth with gusto!!! Still seems to be cleaning the pipes though. Ken in NC
Hi, Ken, Excellent flame photo! Good job on fettling this guy back to life, and well done! I've got a similar one, but have not yet worked on it. I'll pay careful heed to your journey on this stove, when I begin to fettle my own. Thanks for sharing, and again, very well done!! 8) Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Mark
I found some more photos of the wick replacement. I believe they explain themselves, but ... The wick was very charred after so much heat to remove the tube from the tank. And, the 100% cotton mop strings used to replace the wick. Ken in NC
