I acquired a Coleman 347 on the auction site. It went for my limit. I believe the seller was honest in saying he knew nothing about it. I received it quickly and set to work. Well it has been a hard few days. Everything is seize stripped or worse. I am soldiering on but the condition of the steel tank is so beyond me. I have cleaned many tanks with alcohol or gas and BB's. This one is a horror show. I am going to go broke dumping denatured alcohol in it by the pint. I am not sure if it is even savable at this point. So I've decoded to start boiling water treatments tomorrow. I figure its the cheapest option.If it indeed clears up I will wash it with a pint of methanol and air dry. Has anyone used this tactic?
I would make sure the genny works and all works first, then soak the tank in hot lye for half a day or longer. Keeping the solution as hot as you can much of the time. Wear protection over your eyes of course, handle parts securely. Duane
The hot water flush followed with alcohol works excellent for gently loved examples. I think it’s a QC thing more than a brute force cleaning method. I doubt it would be effective at varnish and gum in extreme situations? On the other hand, it’s practically free. Can’t hurt, worth a try. Back in the day, we could buy carburetor cleaner that actually worked. Basically varnish remover. MEK was a powerful solvent as well, great way to hork your central nervous system. Works great though, that’s the important thing. Important thjs no ycyym lusba woola lswa important thing
I use lye all the time for nickel tanks or founts, setting the whole thing in the solution. Biggest issue is getting a container to hold it all. Times too, I only soak the inside. Can be dumped down the drain then and no disposal issue or multiple flushes except when rinsing it all and making sure interior passages are rinsed and cleared also, than neutralized in diluted vinegar. No issues handling briefly by hand, once again dipping pinkies in vinegar. Does a nice job on the nickel, don’t get lye on paint, even for a second. Duane
I would have liked to try the Lye solution. Sounds very mad scientist. But I have zero experience with it. I went ahead with the lacquer thinner wash which though effective it was still being overwhelmed by the amount of sludge. The oil furnace in my home contains coils for the house hot water. When the heat is on it will come out close to boiling. So I waited and started to fill shake and dump Had to wear gloves as the tank was really hot. 5-6-7 times and it started to come clean. It is now drying out with 10 oz. of methanol in it. If I get past this bump, I will fell better about investing time into all the other conditions. THE PUMP when I finally got it out This is the residue that came out with every cleaning while cleansing the tank No chunks but I know it's rust because a magnet gets coated when I dip it in
So I have been constantly referring to idahostoveguy's reference library's breakdown of the 347 stove. Thank you . It is my only lifeline and one of the main reasons I support this site. He has a splendid break down of all it's parts. What I have a big question about is this. I have the hexagonal fitting but not the brass extension. it has all the appearances of a restrictor but it is not on my stove. Do I ignore it? DO I try to make one? My main query is what would it be there for?
What does the parts diagram show? Worried about nothing? I don’t recall mine having that, a curve thrown out. Duane
Correction of my old brain, that sets as shown, part of the preheat. Check out the SRG. Ive had two of the kero models and got rid of the alky one over a year ago, never could get it to run right, even with a new genny. That’s why I suggest seeing if it runs before spending much time on it. Duane
