OK, have a steel bottomed BAT. Seems in good nick and doesn't seem to have been used. I need some advice on the pump and NRV and on the filler cap as well before I fill it up and attempt to fire it. The pump shaft has no spring. Is this normal? It just doesn't feel right. Any pumped stove I have had has had a spring on the shaft of the pump. I do have spare leather washers and it does look as if the bolt at the end needs tightened. When I replace the leather, which is best for oiling it? The NRV has been removed. There is no washer. It seems to be metal on metal. I still have to take the NRV apart but just want to make sure I have the parts. I presume there is a spring and pip inside. Which ones fit? I presume BAT parts are unavailable. There is no increase in pressure when pumps are made. I have seen other BATs with a different fuel filler hole. Mine has no tube. I would like to get it working rather than have it as only a shelf ornament. Any advice is much appreciated.
I have this same stove, but in all brass. It was definitely an experience. Brother in law strikes again...Unfired BAT 2/607 | Classic Camp Stoves So to quickly answer your questions.... Pump does not have a spring, its normal. Pump leather was one of the replacements I bought from Fettlebox...dont remember which but I think it was a smaller one but common. I use motor oil. Regarding the NRV....good god you managed to get yours out? Mine was sheered off and broken, and there was also no washer. When you install it make a new washer or buy one. I needs one. I destroyed mine getting it out of the tank (see my post) but inside its a standard pip and spring arrangement. Its threaded the same as a primus, so I used a completely new NRV for a primus. There is only 1 washer (orange in your photo) between the burner and tank...so you are good there. Things I learned...the burner and trivet on mine (mine was an unfired brand new stove) where PAINTED. Be warned when you do fire it up, its going to burn off and stink if its the same as mine. I ended up using electrolysis to remove the paint on the burner and trivet and found the paint sliding off to reveal a brass burner and a steel trivet. The stove works great, I have the same filler cap and everything...but it was an adventure to be sure. Fond memories and a LOT of swearing...
Thanks for the very useful info. I had actually looked at your thread already but needed more assurances The Orange washer is new from Ross. I didn't trust the asbestos ones that came with it. No spring is weird somehow. Any idea for a washer that will fit? Lead or fibre? I think it had never been used so the tool got the NRV out with no problems at all which was a relief.
I made my NRV gasket from HDPE plastic actually. I found a white plastic squeeze bottle from it and punched it out. Learned to do that from here. There is no heat in the tank to melt it, so it seals really well and makes taking out the NRV a breeze the next time. If not you can use a standard NRV lead gasket too. Ross sells both the plastic rings and lead rings. I find it easier to make mine. Non-return Valve Washer. HDPE. Pack of 3 - The Fettlebox Non-return Valve Washer. Lead. Pack of 3 - The Fettlebox
In theory I would say you probably could, all it does it compress to make a seal anyway. For me I am impatient and like the idea that a hammer and a punch is all I need in a few seconds to make pips and gaskets. No waiting for the mail for me haha
Hi @ewen . Another comment of mine. Some of the budget versions of this stove ( and that's what you have judging by the steel bottom of the tank) have the sucke tube made of steel. Be careful. It may be corroded. Better check it before you replace all the gaskets and other parts. Greetings Stanisław
I have given it a bit of a clean. Going to punch out an hdpe washer from a bottle. It seems ok with regard to corrosion. It was one of the ones that came in a wooden box meant for a Meva. To keep it true, I picked up a Meva 1 which looks like it will need a bit of work but will fit the box better than the BAT. If the BAT doesn't fire, I will keep it for the shelf as it truly is nice to look at.
It's cleaned up nicely Ewen, congratulations A discussion regarding this model Bat 2/607 - with removable Pot supports. And more information regarding BAT stoves here BAT - stove versions
I think the steel bottom in some BAT stoves should not be interpreted as a sign for a "budget version". In a planned economy the retail price is set by the state, not by the producing company. The producer-unit just gets the order to produce a quantity of stoves and he gets the sheet metal. If this plan is failing, and the producer has not the quantity of sheet metal he needs, he can't just go and buy some brass sheet somewhere else. There is no such a market! Making no stove or making a stove with steel bottom, that was the question for the engineers in this situation. A steel bottom stove should be emptied and stored dry at the end of the season. If you don't, you risk corrosion by accumulated water below the fuel. Water vapour comes into the tank with pump action. Radler
I used a lead washer for the NRV and replaced the leather cup. It is now pressurising fine, if not a bit too much Gave it a run for the first time. First run was a bit too much pressure and got flaring so had to let it all out and start again. I let it heat up longer with more alcohol, gave less pumps and got a nice blue flame. Must remember how this stove likes to work. It is a long time since I used a stove like this. I'm more used to multi fuel or naptha stoves that have a pump and a control valve. The Optimus 111 is so much easier on paraffin. I was very lucky that the wife wasn't at home and didn't see the flare in the garden. I would have got a telling off. No air leaks so it seems all the washer replacements worked. I'm happy with it.
