Another Burmos 21 bites the dust - made the mistake of accepting gift of 2 long out of use 21's. First test had paraffin gushing out of the pump tube. No surprise there then. So time to remove the NRV - but oh no, it's a Burmos - so gentle pressure and then the satisfying crack of an NRV loosening ... then the clunk of the whole end of the tube falling into the inside of the tank so there's another Burmos put to the back of the garage for when time allows to remove the tube Ian @Trojandog @shagratork
I have one of these. The pump will ease out over 10 minutes at full pressure so I will have to fix one day but its still ok to use. The burner punches above its weight with a 4 minute boil time for 1 litre of water.
Is it OK to say that a Bumos 21 is the only stove I might consider turning into a table lamp? @Tony Press @igh371 @shagratork
Ok now my BURMOS now runs perfectly. This is after repairing the cracked pump tube. My tube had to be removed to release the stuck NRV. I replaced the tube only to find it still leaked, then removed it again and found it just cracked at the bottom. This was cleaned and soldered then soldered in again. In manufacture the bottom of the tube is pressed too tight on the tube, this should be just held on to be soldered. This is why it cracks. In all its the only fault with the BURMOS , otherwise it's well made especially the burner with the bung able to be screwed out to get he jet out easley. Cheers Rob
Oh dear, just bought one off of ebay and it arrived this morning. It was very very cheap and I was the only bidder. The filler and travel cap washers were hardened like bakelite, so swapped them. NRV pip leaking so whipped it out without much bother, just a little bit tight. Crumbly cork pip swapped with a viton version. Pump cup washer (some sort of plastic?) split, so fished out a suitable leather version from my oil jar and swapped it. No suitable burner washers in my fettlebox (I'll have to order some more) so left burner as received. Did use the supplied Burmos pricker to check the jet was clear though. Nothing left to do but prime... ... and get my RM picnic stove out for comparison ... My RM stove normally has the purest blue flame out of all my stoves, with no yellow bits whatsoever. Also has nice even petals. ... well the Burmos seems to be running great too! Mainly blue flame with little bits of yellow from time to time. Four even flame petals. Hot! The RM is warm to the touch, but the Burmos is like a hot domestic radiator! Self pressurising maybe? There was a slight vapour leak from the fount to riser tube joint, but that was because I'd only done it hand tight. I read about the taper thread, so nipped up the connection with the spanner which sorted it. Well mine seems to be a good one, although that opinion is based upon less than 24 hours ownership. The tin is 'pants' though. Straight, but the lid graphics aren't really there (surface rust), so I'll have to decide whether to leave or paint. Baz
Hi Baz @Go Scout . I reckon that flame colour will soon improve after running for a while. I have always had a soft spot for Burmos stoves and my ones have always performed well. As for the rusted stove lid, have a look at this thread and my experience with a veritas tin with a very rusty lid: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/veritas-9688-picnic.6947/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi George @kerophile thank you for the link in respect of tin restoration. I have to admit to be ignorant of phosphoric acid and looked it up on Google. Apparently it's used for a multitude of applications, but principally as a food additive and a rust remover! Now seeing as I haven't seen bottles of it in Sainsbury's or Halfords for that matter, I assume it comes under a brand name and I would be most grateful for your recommendations. Incidentally, I licked my thumb and ran it over the tin lid and there does indeed appear to be evidence of graphics lying undisturbed beneath the surface! Many thanks Baz
Hi Baz @Go Scout have a look at this thread, and the tin restoration example shown by bom x 4. He used Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, which is basically citric acid, and should be widely available in the UK: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/halloween-guy-fawkes-frankenstove-photo-shoot.9589/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
@Go Scout & @kerophile I use the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel for these situation. The trick is to use it as instructed (ie don't leave it overnight). The paint may be a bit faded after the rust has been removed. I either lacquer or wax afterwards to highlight the paint and prevent re-rusting. See a treated stove tin here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/radius-no-42-1936.35642/ Cheers Tony
@Tony Press @kerophile Popped along to my local Halfords store this morning to get a small 100ml bottle of Hammerite Rust Remover. 'Out of stock' They did have a big 750ml pot for £14.50 but as the stove only cost £9.99, I gave it a miss. There were several other 'rust converter' products, but I want to 'remove' rather than 'convert' the rust, lest I end up with big black splodges on the tin. Back home again, I ordered some from ebay £3.45 so now have to wait patiently. When it arrives, I think I might post it as a separate 'Tin Restoration' topic. Thanks for the advice Baz
So here is the tin .... .... at first glance, doesn't look like much is left, until the sun shines on it .... ... when more 'underlying' detail becomes visible (hopefully can be seen in the photo above too!). Baz
