you didn't confuse me, its my instructions that have done that,i don't doubt you for one second,and what you have said makes more sense than my instructions do. i reckon your right about the instructions being updated,but it looks like they didn't update the drawing correctly,thanks for replying as i was at a total blank before least i have a good idea what's wrong now, thanks to you edit it looks like my instructions have the right picture but the wrong part number that's the trouble with buying older kit,your never sure if you got everything that came with the stove originally i just checked at base camp they list part no2509 as right jet for the 111 and also my instructions do and that's the same as the 8r,i'll pop one out of a known good 8r and give that a try as well,hopefully that will get me up and running
Hey Bar and Par, I've been following this from afar, but haven't chimed-in 'cause me so stoopid (one of my favorite ZZ Top songs). I put, what I believe to be, a new T burner on a 111B, and it burns Kerosene well and Coleman fuel spectacularly well. I've no idea what jet or restrictors (if any) it has; here's a photo of it way back when it was in the scabrous case that the first 111 came with. After Parra's scathing tongue-lashing, for which I've issued a fatwa (don't even try to apologize, my feelings are hurt forever) I moved it into the much more presentable case of the second B that I got, pending gold-plating. Anyway, if, from the photo, you can tell if this is the same burner you're sorting-out, I'll take it apart and tell you what bits it's sporting. Barra, where in California do you reside? L8R, P-U
hi there again bark2much i have just replaced the jet with a known good one from a 8r.its running way better now using white gas/panel wipe, i just boiled a 1 litre kettle in 5 mins with no yellow flame, i think if i used a bigger kettle it would cut the boil time down a bit more,so its not to far away from the boil time optimus say in the instructions,paraffin is still the same yellow flame but that must be the jet,but on white gas and paraffin the heat output is much more acceptable,what you'd expect from a stove,it still warms the case up nicely but i think spontaneous combustion is not a worry any more,nice one for the help i now have a usable stove
hi Prime Us me scathing tongue lashing never you must be thinking of somebody else (i'm not always an argumentative ar$ehole but i do enjoy it ) i thought i might have blown my chances of ever getting any help again on the forum the stove is running much better now i will order new jets from base camp, do you know what jet you have installed in yours P,U ? as i would like to get a jet that will run both fuels if poss without having to change jets, as the spanner that comes with the stove is more challenging to use than a Rubik cube btw i have GOT to order one of the new type flame adjusters with the tools buit in maybe changing jets won't be such a chore then, rik gave me the part number for it #5214 ,looks like a must have item
I use the 'M' jet in all of my 111T's without problem, BUT, sometimes seating the inner and outer cap is very important or you do get a big downgrade in performance. A couple of times I've lit a T and the flame has been poor, underburn etc. Mess with seating the inner and outer caps and problem solved. There are at least two types of alcohol restrictor tube available, I don't mess with them to be honest, I don't like the drop in heat when burning this fuel in this type of stove. All my 111's are 'worker' stoves, i.e. I use them camping and they have to work all the time without messing about, and this is the reason the 111 kero burner is my all time favorite, you just can't break them 8) That said, a good camping buddy of mine goes ape shite in the morning when I fire up a 111 ("turn that F*****g thing off mate"), so this is when a T comes into its own
A'ite, I had to make a quick wrench, but I removed the jet and, even after a little polishing, could not find any kind of mark. I did discover, however, that there is no cleaning wire in the rack where I'd expect to see it. Is there supposed to be? Maybe that's why it burns so hot, but I'd still like to have the built-in pricker. I'd appreciate any wisdom from you silverbacks. L8R, P-U
nice one rik i'll try mucking around with the inner and outer caps as well see if that makes a dif, i know what you mean the 111t is nice but i prefer my 111's as well, though i wish they where as loud as my msr xgk ex,you can really upset a busy camp site with one of those at 5am its worth taking the msr just for that even the birds bugger off when that's running,just out of curiosity what is the loudest roarer that is usable on a daily basis in your opinion ?
Without a doubt, the Omnifuel running liquid gas, or the cheap ?30 delivered Hong Kong Multifuel on anything, very, very loud Edit, Army #12, like a bloody rocket engine
i haven't taken mine fully apart Gary but there is a cleaning wire built in i can see it poking up when i twist the adjuster around to the cleaning position,that maybe why yours is burning so well ,i have read several times the 8r burns hotter without the cleaning gear installed though i haven't tried it, i have just skint myself out buying a opti 8 so i will be able to compare the 2 soon,i'll let you know how i get on, apparently its the same story with the 123 V 123r btw thanks for taking the time to have look at that jet for me
if they sold the burner as complete then yes there should, i can't see why there isn't one fitted unless it's not a 111t burner but it sure look's like one to me ,but i'm far from the best person to ask as you are aware take some close up's i'm sure some of the proper stovies will put you right,i'm just doing my best to learn and keep myself alight
nice one rik i think i will treat myself to one of those hong kong jobs i keep looking at them, and have been watching them for months in my ebay,i have seen a post of one running i forget who it was but he reckoned they where worth the money (redspeedster i think but not sure), the omnifuel is on my wish list also. the trangia 111t adaptor has arrived and i emailed the seller about buying the fuel line adaptor for the omnifuel as well, and he will sell them seperatley $23 inc delivery so i will be able to use either the nova or omnifuel setup then in that kap arctic trangia
I got the stove running at last! I don't know if its the proper way, but it works now. I checked the burner ring for leaks, it has none. I even checked with high temperature, its still okay. I think the problem is with my lighting procedure. This stove, i don't know if its this type or this particular one, likes pressure... and lots of it. I was way to careful with the midi pump. I pumped it just a bit, like i would a brass tripod, or an 8r stove. But if I pump it like crazy even before priming it, it seems to work! Okay it wont simmer as well but it is (mostly) a blue flame. Makes sense in a weird way, when doing this you'd never have to pump again until the tank is empty. The fill cap is way to hot when its running anyway.
Jan sounds like a fuel blockage somewhere if you haver to pump up hard to get it going. once you put a few tanks through it ,the burner may clear some of the gum and soot accumulated by running cold for so long. Ive had to use a restrictor for shellite on on of my silent adjustables. The flame was just too purple blue and whispery.a fleme( needed less air) with the tight jet installed. Usually they are too large. M jets work well in some burners and not in others. Depends on the kero used and the burner a bit I think. M=0.013" 2058/0?=0.012" A=0.020" Vary a bit from a tight pricker wire to an easy fit. Hmmm adjustable silents. Lovely when they are burning nice.can be a bugga to sort out when they are not. Caps have a definite relation to the burn and if you are like me and get odds and sods it can be very hard to find the right ones. Iv'e got one burner here with a scratch mark down the threads of the nipple and for the life of me I haven't been able to get it to seal yet. Think the seat was tapped abit short as well. Ohh well out with the bearing blue Barra Prime-us you are forgiven but not forgotten.
I don't know how to do internal links, but check this out.... Wed Nov 23rd, 2005 650 pm "Three types of Meths restrictors." posted by Doc Mark Has all the info for 111T meths restrictors Al Gentry
hi al nice one for the link i have the type "c" restrictor i think that doc is talking about, the link to the post is below https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/2224 well handy info at least i wasn't the only one confused by them edit i have just cheched mine and it must be type "D" it's unplated brass with 2 holes in one end and three in the other,now i'm confused again type B but not chromed ?
