Hi all, I have recently acquired an Optimus 8R stove (not sure of the year manufactured) and would like to restore it to be fully functional and aesthetically pleasing + lasting for as many years as possible. And that it is DONE SAFELY/ I Know what to do and how to do in properly. But I am not sure of how to go about and do this, in looking at this forum I have kind of an idea but not really sure how to go about fettling and maintaining (fixing???) this stove. I doing a bit of research I have come up with a few questions: Aesthetics 1. What is the best way to remove the rust from the case of the stove and keep it away? 2. How to remove all the grease and residue from the case/stove and fuel tank? 3. What should I coat the outside of the case and burner shield with? (I was thinking RED engine enamel. 4. What do I use to make the brass shiny on the tank and burner ☺ Functionality The stove has been used with petrol and has been sitting around for many years so I would like to replace and clean out everything, but how do I go about replacing al of the seals and serviceable parts? • How do I Replace The wick (I think that what it is) • What can I use for the Fuel cap seal (an o ring)?? • Is there a safety valve Safety and how to test it? (I’m not sure but is it the thing on the fuel cap??) • How do I go about fixing the jet and fuel control parts up (I think there is carbon packing or something not sure though) • How to Re-attach the flame diffuser (the thing that sits on top of the burner)? • How do I go about cleaning the inside of the fuel tank? • Where do I need to remove carbon deposits from? (I think it was run on petrol) AND THE OTHER PARTS/ IMPORTANT THINGS (Hazards etc.) I Missed. Here are the Photos. (Originally 5mb Each took 30min to convert ☹) Sorry for the Millions Of Questions, but I have been bitten by the Stove BUG ☺ Jazzman56
There's lots and lots on what you're looking for in the Fettling Forum or the Fettling Master Class forum - a quick search should turn up a number. Here's two to get you started: A very, very detailed and excellent step-by-step guide for breaking down and repairing an 8R - https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/92 Rust removal - https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/41080 There's more than these, of course, and sometimes there are topics that are maybe not exactly on point for the particular stove you're working on, but will still have the info you'll need to get going (which I recently found out in trying to figure out how to replace a fuel line on a Whisperlite, when a thread was pointed out to me that I'd missed). Good luck, and post your results!
Jazzman, welcome aboard! You have chosen a worthy subject for rehabilitation, there. I just re-furb'd one here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/21336 Not quite as needy as yours, though. To start, take the tank/burner assembly out of the case. Soak both of them for about 30 minutes in a solution of citric acid and water. Lemonade Koolade is mostly citric acid and will work well. You can then begin to wire brush, sand, and otherwise abrade the rust and grease from the case while the tank and burner are soaking. The flame plate can be removed by bending the ears out a bit and lifting it off. Crank the cleaning pricker down to minimize its exposure to the acid. You might want to disassemble the burner by unscrewing the valve stem and pulling it out. Taking the burner apart is pretty intuitive and there is probably a tutorial on this site for dis-assembly and re-assembly so don't worry about getting it back together. DO KEEP TRACK OF ALL THE PARTS! After soaking, the brass may be slightly pink, pull them out of the solution when you see the pink developing. From there I use 0000 steel wool and elbow grease. Im sure there will be more helpful instructions to follow and keep us posted on your progress.
That case is looking pretty sorry, a good candidate for fresh paint to preserve it all. I've restored most of my cases using a rotary tool with a wire brush/wheel on it, then some touch up by hand using sand paper. That small of a case will take a few brushes, get the carbon steel as brass or stainless steel brushes/wheels break down really fast I have tried electrolysis on one case, really slow process and takes much maintenance to keep the system clean so the process keeps working. Duane
For the case, start with paint remover but it will not take all the paint out then using fine sand paper 250 grit or higher and a bit of elbow grease to boot. For the burner and tank, you need to strip it down to individual pieces and soak it in vinegar which is cheap by the gallon and takes only 15 minutes afterwhich you need 0000 steel wool to scrub the brass parts. Do not let the brass turn pink. Wash brass in clean water to remove vinegar remnants on the brass. Thats for starters. Ron
Remember to remove the jet, and THEN the cleaning needle FIRST, and THEN the fuel valve and it's retaining nut! Murph
Welcome to CCS, Jazzman! Some more answers: Use a Viton seal for the tank cap. It is fuel resistant. I would leave the safety valve in the cap untouched. It is difficult to calibrate once tampered with. Just make sure it does not leak. Normally there is no need to clean the inside of the tank, unless it is really gooey. A wash with carb cleaner should be sufficient. After you separate the burner from the tank, you can easily remove the old wick, and make a new one from cotton floor mop strands. I use stove paint on the inside of the case. Engine paint seems good for the outside. The flame plate sits on top of the burner - just bend the flaps a little bit to keep it in place. I am sure you can get the stove to "like new" look and operation. Enjoy! Yonadav
Ross, spiritburner on eBay, can sort you out with a new viton seal for your fuel cap. You will need a new flame plate for your burner since it seems to be missing. Base Camp will have one of those.
Hi Jazzman56. Well, you do have your work cut out for you, cant wait to see the finsihed product. Good luck and welcome.
My favorite way to clean up brass is by soaking in vinegar then polishing with a paste of equal parts vinegar, salt and flour, finishing up with fine steel wool. Cheap and effective. A line wrench is worth investing in for removing the burner from the tank, you'll be much less likely to strip the nut.
Welcome aboard the Ship of Pyros(Tm), Jazz. Bravery is not required for electrolysis All the sandpaper in the world will never equal a half decent Zap Tank. An old style (ie non-microprocessor controlled) car battery charger (12 volt and 2-6 amps is perfect), a bucket and a piece of steel or iron for an anode, a box of cheap and freely available washing soda and you are as good as there. Trust me on this, once you get the hang of it, you'll save your sandpaper for foolin' with wood. Kinder on the case, too, only rust and crud will come off, good metal is never affected by the process. 8R's deservedly have their own following, they are tough lil brutes. There have been some amazing pimp outs (Berniedawg's one would have to be the high tide mark) but just me personally, I'm a 'form follows function' kinda guy. Keep us posted, we love this sort of thing.
WOW, thanks for everyones input. All this information is a bit confusing So the first step i should take would be to: FOR the Burner and Tank: 1. Break down the stove into it's components using this as a guide https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/92 2. I would then proceed to put the Tank (without Cap) and the WHOLE??? Burner (and turning the needle down into the nut??) assembly into vinager or bicarbe soda solution for about 15-30 min. WHAT DO YOU Guys meen by brass turning pink and how do i know to pull out of solution before it goes pink??? ____ Then scrub the brass with 0000 Steel Wool 3. Murph, what do you mean by REMOVING: the jet, the cleaning needle then the fuel valve. This may sound like a stupid question but Where's the cleaning needle, fuel valve and jet For the Case: 1. I need to remove the paint FIRST then the RUST then i would Paint it ? I can remove the paint either do this by electrolysis or with paint remover (and sandpaper)--> then use sandpaper or electrolysis to remove the rust. With the electrolosyist i just put the whole case and pot supports with all the grease and grime straight in??? Or does it need removal of the grease/ grime first? AFTER ALL THAT I will follow https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/92 to replace the wick Anything i missed? Once again thank-you to everyone for there contribution, up until a couple of days ago i had no clue how to fix this stove.
OK, it's like this: Remove the burner bell. Now you can access the fuel jet, the thing with two flats on it. Next, open the fuel valve, and a small toothed bar will rise out of the threaded hole in the burner head. This is the cleaning needle. Now, you can remove the gland nut and remove the spindle, and you're done. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/15697 Here's a pictorial explaining much of this, better I can't find here, offhand. Murph
Made some progress today I was able to pull apart the burner into mostly all of its components although I couldn't get the spindle (I think that what it is) and the nut to detach from the tank. I was able to get the fuel tank lid off (forgot to look at the seal) and look at the wick inside, it looks like its still good but I can't be sure as I can't get the remainder of the wick inside the tube to the burner. Is the spindle meant to come out any further? Unfortunately I could not get the nut that connects the burner to the tank off as it was stuck, I have tried numerous times with degreaser and oil but it did not budge at all, if I try to turn it any harder I will strip the nut (more ) What do I do??? I was thinking I could heat the fitting up with a jet lighter, or can I just put the whole burner (spindle and all)/tank assemble in the acid bath and maybe that will loosen it ????? ANY IDEAS Here are the pics NOTE: (sorry if this seems rushed as the original paragraph deleted as I was about to post it )
I would be perfectly happy to leave the fuel pipe on the tank unless there was an actual fault with it. I would give it a token bit of cleaning and polishing because its only going to get filthy again as soon as you fire it. Clean the brass fuel tank surfaces in the approved fashion, rinse out the tank with some fuel, maybe some carb cleaner if it seem particularly gunky.
Isn't that nut how you get to the wick? Crescent style spanners are not your friend on small size brass nuts. Get an open end or even better a flair spanner of the correct size. Its most likely imperial rather than metric.
1. Don't use bicarb soda to soak brass. Your best bet is citric acid, 2nd choice is vinegar. All brass parts can (and should) be soaked, but don't let it get inside the tank. 20 minutes is typically sufficient. 2. If you choose electrolysis, just dip the entire case, grime, rust and paint, into the washing soda solution, and run the current through it. Everything will come off (including the case labels). 3. Don't fight too hard to get the burner and tank apart. You might break something. Get to try the stove first. Only if you have positive evidence that the wick is clogged, then you should give it more attention. In most stoves you will find that the wick is still usable. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it.) 4. My order of things is to try the stove first, and clean it afterwards. Just replace the tank seal and you are ready to go. For a first test you can even leave the cleaning needle out. Just have a cup of cold water handy. If the valve is bad and the stove does not shut off, pour cold water on the tank to stop the pressure. Watch out for flames coming out of the valve spindle nut and the safety valve. Yonadav
