Fill the tank with water, apply a blowtorch to the nut, for at least one minute. Holding the tank with a thick rag, unscrew the nut while hot, with a RIGHT SIZE spanner. It worked always for me. Orsoosrso
Thanks for everyones help in getting the stove up and running When I get some more time I will do up the case and clean the brass. Here's a link to it working [media=youtube]cobAzGYQQf8[/media]
Hi Jazzman, lovely sound! As you mention, a bit to much yellow. Looks like you need a new jet but hey, it works fine otherwise! If you can't find a new jet, put a steel wire of the correct diameter in the jet and carefully "crimp" the jet with pliers. Not very urgent, like I said your stove works fine! Best regards, Wim
Jazzman, nice work there getting the 8R working.? Looking at your video, there appears to be a flame coming from the nipple. This could well be the reason for all that yellow in the flame. Try tightening it gently, this might solve your problem.
Ahhh thats why it was yellow, i will look at the jet when i get some free time Had a bit of trouble trying to get it to light (wasn't sure where the on/off part of the throttle was) But once it started, had the biggest grin sounds so good. Thanks for everyones help, couldn't have done it without help.
Jazzman, when we say the brass turns pink, it does exactly that. Brass is an alloy of Copper and zinc. Zinc is chemically more active than copper and when exposed to an acid, the zinc dissolves more quickly than the copper. This leaves the brass on the surface of the part with no zinc so you are basically seeing pure copper, which is pink. IF allowed to go on too long the loss of zinc goes deeper into the brass and weakens it. If you stop the process as soon as you see it turning pink, the depth of the de-zincified surface will be very small and it can be polished away with very fine steel wool. I am not sure what they call steel wool in New South Wales which is what I think NSW stands for.
I just looked at your YouTube vid and I would say your wick is just fine. You are getting plenty of fuel to the vaporizer. If you bend the tabs on the flame plate DOWN about 1mm it will raise the plate up. This will allow the fuel to mix with the air a split second longer and alter the fuel-air ratio. A perfect ratio is not needed but you should be able to get it closer to blue.
Thanks Sparky . I will bend the tabs on the spreader and have a look at the jet. Ahhh ok know i understand what you mean by brass turning pink. Also can i just polish with steel wool (0000) or do i need brasso or a brass polish ? Thanks for everyones help NSW = New South Wales
New Steel Wool, ahh makes sense now On the fuel valve which way is off and on? As the stove always has white gas (shellite in aus) leaking out of the top of the jet no matter what position it is in??? Also how do I get the fuel valve spindle out? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure off everything before I take it hiking in a few weeks
Hi, this post will show you the inner workings of a regulated burner so you may see how it works: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/15697 Here are the operating instructions for your stove: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/272 The closed position is achieved with the regulator knob fully clock-wise, and the "cleaning needle fully up" position occurs with the regulator knob fully anti-clockwise. The maximum stove power position on a regulated burner of this type is mid-way between the closed and needle fully up positions. There is only about 1/4 to one-third of a turn between these two positions. You should never use the needle of a regulated burner as a throttle because you will get rapid erosion of the needle. If you have fuel leaking out of the jet when the regulator knob is fully clockwise, the cleaning needle is preventing the needle valve from fully closing. You need to remove the jet and cleaning needle and then re-set the cleaning needle to 3 or 4 "clicks" before re-inserting the jet. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/271 Don't remove the regulator spindle unless you really have to! Hope this helps, Best Regards, Kerophile.
Jazzman, I often use a little Brasso with the fine steel wool. For a mirror finish, polish only with a cotton wheel and a VERY fine abrasive stick polish. I have also used Mothers auto polish with good results. Yonadav, good one! Maybe No Stove Wax?
Thanks guys for all your help, i have made some more head way with the functionality of the stove. I have run the stove for about 30 min straight and works perfectly, the yellow flame has almost all disappeared (as the carbon deposits from the automotive petrol break down) . Unfortunately upon first igniting the stove, e.g priming/ignition i can only get a very very small flame, until i stop the stove briefly and clean the jet (3-4 times) . Then i get the "normal" jet flame. Not sure if this is normal as carbon deposit are braking free and clogging the jet, (red specks fly out of the jet in the first 2 min). Now there is a very small flame coming out of the fuel valve spindle nut (every now and then) before i blow it out . How do i stop this fuel leaking (might be the graphite nut)???? I would like to make it as reliable as possible before i take it to the Barrington tops where it could be sub-zero. Any tips for more reliable startup/performance. Unfortunately i might not be able to get the casing rust off before i take it. Does anyone know the best place to get a SVEA 123 as i am looking to get one over here in Aus to take hiking . I would choose the reliability and simplicity of the Svea over more "advanced" models. Thanks for everyones help Jazzman
Does anyone have any tips for running the stove in sub-zero temperatures. There is also a small flame coming from the fuel valve spindle, how do i stop this?? OopsDouble post
A slight tightening of the spindle nut usually fixes this. Unless the packing (graphite) is gone. For cold usage, you can get a 'Midi' pump and cap, allows you to add pressure. OR Add some fiberglass rope (from a woodstove dealer) to the priming cup. OR Spill some alcohol under the fuel tank when lighting. All these steps are designed to pressurize the tank, and preheat the burner.
As long as the carbon felt is burn proof, you should be all right. For sub-zero cold camping, I've primed with the windscreen on and surrounding the stove with rocks or another windscreen to generate heat all around the stove, removing the secondary windscreen after flames are established (too much heat can be hazardous to your self and the stove). A stove that is in good condition and filled with clean fuel will fire up in those temperatures. I've not ever had a problem, except with faulty stoves. Sometimes, I've had to prime twice when it was bitter cold. sam
