Sievert 123

Discussion in 'Svea No: 123 & 123R' started by foresterscott01, Apr 16, 2010.

  1. foresterscott01

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    I've been trying to buy one of these old Sievert models for a while now and the other day I actually bought 2 for about half of what I'd seen them sell for in the same condition. I spent 5 hrs. on this one and am waiting for the second to arrive. It could probably use a few more minutes with the cotton polishing wheel but for now it's good enough for me. Cleaned up I would bet the value is near triple what I paid. Had to slightly tweak the stem to straighten it up a bit and make a slight clockwise turn to line it up properly to the key hole. Fired it up and it ran just fine. I'm hooked on these things.

    I'll get some better and bigger pics up in the gallery in the next day or so.


    1271383850-123_1.jpg

    1271383910-123_2.jpg

    1271383968-123_3.jpg

    1271384026-123_4.jpg

    1271385221-123_5.jpg
    Scott
     
  2. hikerduane

    hikerduane Subscriber

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    Looks great. On another stove you had, how did you clean the inside of the vaporizer? I have an older 123 that I think the vaporizer needs some help.
     
  3. Knight84

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    Outstanding work Scott!!! :clap: :clap: :clap:

    I love what you have done to the cup too!

    Gotta love the "Svea 123" stamping on the windscreen. :mrgreen:

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  4. Matukat

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    What Jeff said! :lol: :lol: Very nice shine up!
     
  5. foresterscott01

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    A tooth brush and some Brasso gets the hard to reach areas, I have a 6" unwoven nylon aluminum oxide flap wheel that works great on everything else, then I follow up with a 6" cotton polishing wheel and several times with 'NuFinish' Scratch Doctor. The only problem is that the clean bell and flame spreader gets dirty/discolored again the first time you fire it up. That's why I take pictures first.
     
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  6. hikerduane

    hikerduane Subscriber

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    How did you clean the innards? I want to get it working right before spending time cleaning, no shelf queen for my 123's.
     
  7. foresterscott01

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    What I have done in the past is take out the jet and the regulating spindle/packing/etc. and just spray it right through with something like WD40 and then with compressed air. I wouldn't remove the spindle unless you had too, though, because you may damage the graphite packing and then have to find some replacement material.
     
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  8. hikerduane

    hikerduane Subscriber

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    Thank you, I've run some strands of DC electrical wire in and out, which brought some carbon out, but still have some restriction. I have a rebuild kit I got from A & H I can use.
     
  9. RonPH

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    Hey HD, if I get all my stoves that shiny and clean, I would not want to fire it anymore. Hence, I just clean it up to where I wont have to re-shine the stove.

    Ron
     
  10. Knight84

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    That is what lacquer is for Ron. Or suitable clear coat.

    Are you could to use a lacquer Scott?

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  11. RonPH

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    Yeah, but you need to apply it properly for it to stay longer because of the heat.

    Ron
     
  12. Knight84

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    I agree Ron.

    I have been using a special lacquer and spraying it on. The way to go for sure. Once the lacquer is cured it is hard and heat resistant to around 800'F to 900'F.

    That said I am still trying it out. So far so good. One tough finish.

    And no more brasso. :lol:

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  13. hikerduane

    hikerduane Subscriber

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    Thread drift. Any brand of lacquer, or just read labels? Getting way ahead of myself since I have numerous stoves to work on and more coming, so no time to spray them let alone get them shiny.:) The Svea's may be left as is, may clean the others up, I kinda like the character/patina of the older stoves. Spring is here so I'll be spending lots of time in the out of doors on weekends, since I work out of town.