I have been looking for a metal tipped priming spirits can for priming my different stoves. I wanted it to be a brass or metal tube or tip so it doesn't get melted those times when you still have to put a bit more fuel in the priming cup because the stove still needs a bit more priming. I came across these fuel bottles on evil bay used for nitro fuel for those RC cars. Anyone use these bottles? Will it be okay for alcohol? I would think it should be fine for alcohol. If anyone has used these like to hear your opinion. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TRAXXAS...adio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item484af88d8c
A metal tip is not necessary. I buy small plastic squeeze bottles with either a flip or pull-up nozzle. Sizes from 10ml to a liter. If I can't find a suitable one in the cosmetics department, the pharmacy is always willing to oblige. Theirs are much higher quality at the same or lower, sometimes much lower, price. Put the lid on, close the nozzle and squeeze. If no air escapes, it's a good one. The Pharmacy gives me a choice of nozzles as well. Pill bottles in myriad sizes, too, for small parts. Usually free of charge. I've never had any problems with denatured alcohol escaping. Gerry
I use the squeeze bottles now or flip top ones. It's often hard to find one that does not leak but I like the LONG tip of this RC car refueling bottle as I can get the alcohol or spirits right into the priming well of my svea123 without taking the windscreen off and on of and on all the time. Also I have been known to melt the plastic tip on those flipper tops now and then. So I was wondering if anyone has tried these long tipped metal refueling bottles for the RC cars or what you guys think of using them for priming fuel bottles. Personally I would love to have an old Radius vintage metal fuel can with beautiful logos from Primus and Optimus and Radius but those are hard to come by.
There are holes in the burner bell of the 123 type burners for priming liquid to run through. No need to reach into the stove. In 45 years of lighting my 123 I don't remember ever doing it with the windscreen in place. The easiest priming method is to open the fuel valve, cuddle the stove lovingly in your hands and as the fount warms slightly it causes fuel to run from the jet, down the vaporizer into the priming dimple. Then close the fuel valve and light. Easy-Peasy. Gerry
I like to use the alcohol to prime with as it's far, far cleaner burning than the results I get when using white gas to prime with. Call it nuts but I just don't like all the black soot on the burner if I can avoid it. So has anyone tried one of these RC bottle re-fuelers?
I haven't tried one of those Viscara, But I'm with you on the soot, I don't like it either. I guess I'm nuts too. I would probably go for a bottle like that though. That's one reason I really like the Turm meths burning stoves, Open the valve, let some meths in the bottom, close valve and light meths to prime, If it doesn't prime, just open the valve and let some more meths in before it goes out and so on until its running, One safe fuel and no problems with separate priming bottles or adding more priming fuel.
Viscara, I got lucky and found some used self closing safety fuel jerry cans in a 1 pint capacity. These have more safety, NFPA, DOT and Good Housekeeping certifications than the whole state of California alone. Most are made of HDPE plastic and impervious to anything flamable. To assist with filling my Radius 43 I fit a 4" long 1/4" I.D. piece of aluminum tube into the dispensing tube. There is a photo of one of my cans in this post: Filling a stove These jerry cans run in size from 1 pint, 1/4 gallon up to 5 gallons. I would offer one word of caution if using the style for RC cars; you wouldn't want to squeeze the alcohol into the priming cup and if there should still be a flame present, draw burning meths into the plastic container - mini Chernobyl! Just be safe!
Cazna: I totally agree with you as well but to each his own as others have their reasons why they make like to do things different. I also find the alcohol seems to prime the stoves a tad quicker too, which is a plus. Chef BC: I like your photo of what you did there with the bottle in the link you gave. I have bought a piece of brass tube and was going to make my own like you did until I ran into the ones on Evil bay. Someone private messaged me and mentioned they own and have some of these bottles. The problem they mentioned is that the tubes on them are pretty large in diameter and may give to much fuel at once, which is what I was worried about and the reason for my enquiry here in this thread. I have a idea for making one like you did and going to test it out and then report back.
Thanks Baja. Shame I was over the hill yesterday and could have stopped by in Sunnyvale to get those now I will have to wait till next week. Those look perfect. I was thinking of making one those bottles with a cork plug in it and squeezing the brass tube I have into a hole drilled in the cork and then plugging cork in the bottle. Finding a simple cap for the brass tube and voila. The other bottles I can use to fuel up my stove tanks without the funnel mess - just a quick 2 or 3 squeezes and the tank is back to near full. Thanks.
I have been looking at some of the 1-2 oz miniflasks on ebay. Fill one with 95% Everclear, stove priming and snake bite med. in one package. On the subject of alcohol, what are the differences burning ethyl/ethanol vs methyl/methanol? I only have experience using Coleman fuel and unleaded gas in my 123R. Rolly
Coleman sells a priming bottle for Kero lanterns, part number 201-5511, for $2.99. See part # 23 here. I bought a couple several years ago, they work well, but there is no way to seal them, unless you use a bit of cork.
http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=68&cat=&page=1 I also have melted the tip of the plastic ones. Haven't melted this one yet.
I have a couple of the Coleman squeeze bottles, they work good but as already mentioned -- no cap. Whatever alcohol was left is always evaporated next time I wish to use it. I've been told a little forethought would help; where can I find one of those?
get a cork, one of those used in vine bottles. take a thin nail, and hold it with pliers on a flame until it is red hot. insert it in the cork and let it cool down. when you take the nail out, clean the carbonized part of the cork with a thin roll or coarse emery paper. You got your cap for the Coleman priming bottle brass sprout. Alcohol will not evaporate anymore. Orsoorso
