Rest of the stove to feature soon as the renovation progresses, but here's the fuel tank resplendent in a fresh coat of orange paint, original spec for this stove along with Russet Green for the stove box This is the stove featured in a catalogue (1930's) in the Stove Reference Library The fuel tank was badly daubed in red over the original orange paint Vapouriser, pick-up tube, control valve benefited from a thorough cleaning, but were in pretty good condition. Certainly, I've had more difficulty releasing the pricker rod from much newer Coleman 500 Speedmasters due to gumming up of the vapouriser tube/pricker rod/helical spring. No such difficulty with this T&W The pricker tip is an unusual arrangement, with a separate pricker needle The shape of the needle with that flat pan-head reminded me of something. I couldn't remember what until a foray into the greenhouse reminded me of something similar in a maximum and minimum thermometer Fuel tank stripped of paint Although Turley & Williams went on to make stoves for the military, I was surprised to find the broad arrow stamp on this one, which I'd assumed was for the civilian market. Certainly there was no olive drab paint on it. The date stamp of '33' is consistent with it's appearance in that catalogue from the period Brass inserts for filler cap, control valve and pump masked off for spray painting A red oxide undercoat first TO BE CONTINUED AS THE RESTORATION PROGRESSES John
Looking good John, assuming that the vapouriser and all that arrangement are the same as my twin number 3, how did it all come apart? I've had the packing nuts undone, but that doesn't seem to help as the control just turns through 180 degrees and then goes tight. If you keep turning it, you can feel the spring inside twisting a bit but then it jumps round a bit and changes the resting position of the control. It didn't feel as though it would pull out.
Presscall is always gobbing off about keeping his stuff original, dirt, patina etc. Hypocrite springs to mind, or is he a convert now to the magpie effect. Looks like it is going to end up by looking like this Crossland Mk 1
Nonsense. A restoration is the only way to deal with that layer of red paint. A four year old could have done it with interior gloss. Maybe they did?
Nice work, John. Nice photos, too. With responses like this I will think twice before posting pictures of my inadequate work. Ken in NC
Thankfully rare comment, Ross. No, I'm not a hypocrite zzz, just in the mood to go a bit further with this one than polishing the bright work, primarily because the paint colours weren't original. Yes, I saw that Crossland of yours. Admirable job you made of it too. PT me if you want to get incandescent with rage over this issue. I won't be responding further to personal abuse in a public forum. End of. Matthew92 said, You need to unscrew the pricker needle ... ... and to get at that you must unscrew the generator (vapouriser) tip. Clamp the generator in a vice - packing the jaws with a soft sheet metal to prevent scoring - to unscrew the generator tip. The pricker rod and control spindle attached to it won't pull out until you've done that. The pricker needle jams up against the generator spring and won't pass through otherwise. It's why you've been detecting a spring-loaded resistance when you've tried to yank it out. John
Ahhh thanks for that, I will have a go at some point see if I can get any further with it. Hopefully get some nice flame shots up by next weekend.
Beautiful job and pictures, very well described and layed out. It's a time consuming and delicate process to organize all the pieces like that and to make sure the round bits don't all roll around everywhere when taking pictures, so I can appreciate the effort.
Hi John, as all ways a outstanding picture break down restoration and talk through. I am in total agreement with Ross, John's work is first class and I all ways toughly enjoy reading and viewing his work. Some times I think we can go to far in keeping things original, and in case's it can do more harm than good keeping things to original, no criticism to any one, the benefits of a restoration as john has carried out on this stove, the non original terrible paint job on the steel tank has been removed and any rust removed, so the steel tank is as good as new and will last for many decades. All the parts have been inspected and serviced, so the stove will work perfectly and most importantly safely, I notice the brass ware has been cleaned of dirt crud and carbon but not over polished leaving a nice patina on the brass so it has been carried out quite sympathetically. I personally think it is down to personal preference, in leaving everything original or carrying out a restoration as long as the item does not go beyond how it left the factory. In this case John you have made the right decision in how far to carry out the restoration, I am looking forward to seeing it working
wonderful pics and documentary work as always! thanks for the inspiration! willie on the warm Gulf of Mexico
Go well with a G4 Landrover. http://www.adrianstomcat.co.uk/Images/G4Challenge/G4Challenge01.jpg Your usual high standard, John. Always a pleasure to view your work. Thank you
Hi John, I am a new proud owner of a 1942 Crossland stove (same as your suburb stove) I would very much like to restore it to a good standard as you have with yours. When you get a minute could you kindly tell me where I might be able to purchase new seals for it ? I have found a spare serviceable pricker needle lose in the bottom of the cooker .... Is there any more spares left on the planet or do I need to guard it with my life ! There are 2 x spanners that came with the cooker .... Should there be anymore tools that I need to collect ? And lastly ... Where can I purchase some heat proof paint to tidy up the rusty look ? I appreciate any advice, Kind regards, Mark
@Mark Towers I seem to recall I made the seals out of nitrile sheet. Ross (Spiritburner) recently and rightly pointed out the variable quality of nitrile in respect of fuel resistance. I must have by chance got hold of some decent stuff - ages ago now from an ebay source I honestly couldn't remember even if they're still trading and selling the same spec. Probably best if I make you a tank filler cap and non-return valve seal. Or, you could follow Ross's sound advice and seek out suitable viton seals. He markets viton seals and may well have a match. Paint? Fuel tank doesn't need to have heat-resistant paint so can be a rattle-can of orange paint from B&Q or other retail outlet - Plasticote I think mine was. There's a potential for the stove frame/box paint to scorch, but once scorched underneath the burner base it won't get any worse. The crotchety guy 'zzz' (formerly known as 'iani') who inexplicably slagged me off earlier in this thread swore by green brake caliper paint - obviously heat resistant. Mind you, he swore about many things, bless him. John
Sorry, Mark, I forgot to answer the other questions you put. Availability of spares - non-existent unless you got a second example as a donor you'd be willing to cannibalise. The jet pricker needle is of pretty stout (relatively) gauge and shouldn't wear out, particularly if you use Aspen 4 alkylate petrol and not pump petrol, the additives in which coke up and eat away vapourisers and delicate parts like the pricker needle. I don't know of any additional tools. It's not like the military No.2 with a spare flame plate, jet nipple and spanner in the lid. Much better stove in my opinion than the No.2 - pleasing silent burner characteristics and flame pattern and very controllable. Orange tank and proper (as opposed to muddy army drab) green colour scheme is handsome too.
Hi John, Thank you very much for getting back to me :-) Yes I certainly agree with you about the stove being a nice looker I would be very greatful if you could kindly make the seals, as I trust your handy work, and don't want to take any risks with such an old stove. I will pay you for all the trouble ! I might of hit a massive brick wall tonight John ! .... I've just conducted an under water pressure test on the fuel tank, in order to test my NRV..... And I have found a pin sized hole in the tank :-( Has the stove now totally had it ?? Or could a hole that size be repaired ?? I'm very disappointed as it has taken me years to find such a stove