Tip for Removing rust from Coleman Stove tank

Hi folks, I have recently experimented with a readily available (here in the US anyway) product that does a remarkable job of removing rust from the innards of a Coleman Stove fuel Tank. It is Prestone Super flush. It is an automotive product designed for removing rust and corrosion from radiators. I dumped about 2 ounces of Super Flush, with about 30 .177 caliber steel BB's into the tank and then filled the tank about 1/2 full of hot water. I shook this vigorously for about 2 minutes and let it sit for 10 minutes. I rotated the tank 90 degrees, then repeated this same cycle 3 more times. I dumped the solution and the amount of rust that came out was impressive. When I shined a flashlight (that's a torch for my British friends), into the fill hole, the tank looked remarkably clean. Super flush is very inexpensive and available at Wal Mart for about $3 USD. It's active ingredient is Citric Acid. When I am finished with this rust removal process I dump as much water as I can get out of the tank. I then put a few ounces of denatured alcohol into the tank to absorb the remaining water and again shake vigorously. I then dump the alcohol. Just a disclaimer. The BB's idea (as a hammering action against the rust) was not my own but something I read on the Oldtownyucca site. Hope this helps somebody!

 

Goodmorning Rod.

Thats sounds like a good product, would it be an even cheaper option to just purchase the citric acid ?...Great idea with the steel BB's, cheap and plentifull

 

Hello,
Rod's idea is perfect. Citric acid is not readily available here in the US. At least not in my part of the woods. I understand that in some countries you can buy it in the supermarket. But, here that is not the case.

You can also use some six sided nuts if bb's are not available. I have some up coming restoration projets and will no doubt use this idea of Prestone flush.

Chuck

 

This is exactly the problem. I too have never seen citric acid for sale here in the US. Realizing that Prestone Super Flush had citric acid as the main ingredient, was as close as I have come to finding it.

 

Hi Guys,

For US online supply, try:

iHerb

Nutrition Geeks

Planetrx

Myspicesage

Note, it's normally sold in powdered or crystal form and then you make it up yourself. People who sell components for arty crafty soap making will usually sell citric acid (such a supplier is where I got it from in the UK).

Hoope this helps.

Cheers, Graham.

 

Hi Graham,

Thank you for the links. I appreciate it. I'm going to check into their shipping charges to see what the overall cost is if I buy say 10 lbs....

 

Good idea on the citric acid and BB's. I just bought a 500 today and it burns but acts like it is clogged with crud in the pickup and valves. The tank has some rust. I'm going to do a full resto on it, but it probably just needs to have all of the particles washed out and residual rust removed.

I do like using phosphoric acid (naval jelly) on rusted surfaces, but only on external ones you can see as it leaves iron phosphate (black, hard material) over the rust if the rust is deep. I'm talking about cars now, but just to explain, you can cover naval jelly with plastic wrap and just let it sit for hours (or days) to remove even very deep pits. Just keep the surface wet with naval jelly. Once you have ALL rust off (with no black residue at all, which you would never know inside a tank), scrub, then use a watery solution of naval jelly and let sit for 5 or 10 minutes (don't let dry) until the surface is slightly blued. This is a thin layer of iron phosphate that is an excellent rust inhibitor (same as POR "metal prep"). I always do this before priming bare steel on cars. Then wash the surface with water, and dry immediately. For a tank, use something like alcohol to take the water out, then dry and blow out. At least that is what I'm going to do with my disassembled tank. Citric acid & bb's to clean, then phosphate, rinse, alcohol, dry.

The other option for citric acid is Tang (the orange drink). It's loaded with citric acid. Other similar powdery drinks might also have it. I'm told Whirlpool recommended it as a dishwasher cleaner (dump a whole jar in the dishwasher to clean calcium deposits off)

 

The little paper packets of powered lemonade mix (un-sweetened) by "Kool aid", and probably generic brands, are mostly citric acid and dirt cheap. Check the label to make sure.

 

Kaf-tan #2 coffee maker cleaner is pure citric acid.

Most supermarkets carry it here in the US.

https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/178971

Murph

 

Tip for the citric Acid: try stores that sell canning supplies

 

you can get powered Citric Acid from a U brew or Wine making shop
Jan

 

quart bottles of lemon juice from the dollar store
work great

 

Health food stores have small plastic jars of NOW brand citric acid. I also get it bulk at a large natural foods store. Earthfare here in North Carolina.

As to the BB's ...
1) Make sure they are magnetic before dumping into a stove tank. Sometimes it is hard to get them out.
2) Pointed pellets work better than BB's. As in Crossman pellets for a pellet gun.

Ken in NC

 

And with the pointed pellets being non-magnetic, how the fick do you get them all out??

P.S. - Use pointed flat head wood screws, short 'uns, best of both things!

Murph

 

Mine are magnetic.

Ken

 

I was wrong, they are not magnetic.
The only thing I can think of worse than being wrong is admitting it publicly.
But, here it is.

Ken in NC

 

Ken. I knew what you ment.

 

I used (Evapo Rust ) purchased at Harbor Freight. US $ 7.99. poured in tank and left it there for a week. Cleaned the tank right up with no residue and no discoloration. Flushed with water and alcohol, and then some WD 40.

 

Another vote for Evapo Rust. I bought mine if 5 gallon pails from Amazon http://tinyurl.com/pemc323 . Just submerge any rusted iron or steel overnight and the rust is gone. No elbow grease required. Does not remove corrosion from brass, copper, or other none ferrous metals.

 

Do remember that this stuff removes the rust not converts it back to steel. The steel will be thinner in places and when the thickness is thin enough it will burst under pressure. If this is the point after the stove has been lit and heat has increased the pressure it will get very exciting very quick.
I bought a 422 a few years ago with rust holes in the bottom of the tank. A new tank and the stove was good as new