Svea Regulating Keys, Pot Handles and Windscreens

I made keys a few years back for the Svea 123R. The key included the proper wrench holes for maintenance as well as a square hole to "unjam" a stuck regulator valve. Pretty easy to make if you have a few drills, a set of jewelers files and a bit of patience. If anyone is interested, let me know so I can make up a PDF file which has a template, instructions and materials list so you can make your own.

It seems the big item everyone needs is the windscreen. (I'm in this boat myself!) I'll have to perfect the design first before I can tell anyone how to make one.

 

Sure. I never pass up a good pattern for making stuff. Got a folder of 'em, some of which I've shared here at CCS for free use by participants.

 

Svea 123 windscreens are available, if a bit pricey. Non-R keys, on the other hand are somewhat harder to come by than chicken teeth, and when if found, are costlier than diamond and ruby encrusted Versace handbags made of the skins of unborn unicorns. Or a 19 year old girlfriend.

I would love to have access to any information on making Svea keys of any stripe.

Gerry

 

I have made substitute keys for stoves such as the 123 or 8R and the like using 1/4 inch copper tubing.

Take a square masonry nail and file it to the shape of the keyed shaft. Taper it a bit and then jam it into the end of the tubing. Thump it a bit with the hammer of your choice and form your own key. If you use a piece of tubing about 8 inches long (no, I do not know what the metric equivalent is) do both ends and then bend it to a quarter circle.

It takes less time to make one than it does to tell how to make one. But they work and this way I can save my hard to replace original stove keys.

Ken H.

 

Copper doesn't last long and conducts heat extremely well. Not something you want on a STOVE.

You also don't have the wrenches you need for field repair in the type you make, Ken. Mine does.

If someone can send me the dimensions of the 123 regulator shaft, I can adapt my current design to include that. I also need a set of good photos for the M1942 wrench. I'm sure others need that tool, too

 

We're all well aware here of the propensity of 123 keys to get very hot and at some point in our stove education, most of us have borne the scars to prove it. You very quickly learn not to leave them in place while the stove is burning. I think you'd just need to be equally careful with a copper replacement.

 

In my next round of designs, I'll address the heat issue better so we can -possibly- leave the key in place while the stove is in use.

 

You should try a 41 year old girlfriend!
As for the heat conduction of the key, try stamping some from titanium.

 

Never has been a problem.

Ken H.

 

I was sort of hoping we would see some sharing of patterns by now. Or, at least, maybe some pictures of all these keys you fellows are talking about having made. ??? I'd sure like to see what others have turned out. Maybe I could kick off a redirection of the thread in that way by sharing one of mine.

This one I did a while back (2011). It's stainless steel. Made from flat stock and tubing. Silver-brazed together and polished. A 10mm wrench cut into the end for tightening spindle nuts. The spindle end was crimped around a piece of square stock in my four-jaw lathe chuck.


Because stainless steel is a poor conductor of heat (like titanium) it stays relatively cool to the touch for a long time until the heat works it's way out to the thumb blade. Helps forgetful guys like myself get a little more wiggle room if I forget to take the key off the spindle right away.

I'd like to sometime try titanium, too. I'm told that in it's annealed state, Class 2 titanium sheet is easy to work. I know a couple of stovies (not on the CCS forums) who have done some windshields and other stove apparatus with the material. With the proper flux and composition of silver braze filler, it can be silver brazed, though I've not yet tried it. A good stove pal was kind enough to send me some special titanium flux. Just another skill to try to master in the future.

I hope to see some of the keys made by other posters to this thread very soon.

Cheers,
Gary

 

G,,day Gary. very nice indeed.

but I reckon you should make one from copper, with a paw stamp on each flat..
that way you and other users can have personalised PAW PRINTS instead of boring old finger prints.
cheers
kerry

 

Nice one, Kerry.

 

ALA Kwai Chang Caine...






Tsssstttttt!

 

My original Svea key design is still available thru A&H. He's been building them from the directions my previous business partner provided. The quality of the key is awful right now. I'm working with Bob of A&H to improve quality and correct his process.

I'll post up renderings of the current version later today.

 

Rendering of the current version.

 

Here is the PDF drawing showing the key head/wrench. My apologies for it being metric. I chose to match the original measuring system used on the Svea. To make this you'll need:

• 1/16in x 1in CA260 sheet brass
• 3/16" square x 0.024" wall CA260 brass tube, 1 1/2in. long
• Small, fine blade hacksaw or jewelers saw
• 3/8 drill
• 5/16 drill
• 3/16 drill
• 5/32 drill
• Square jewelers file
• Round jewelers file

You can get both the tube and sheet brass from most hobby stores.

Instructions:

• Cut out the head from 1/16in sheet brass per the drawing.
• Drill large hex hole using 3/8" drill and file to shape.
• Drill small hex hole using 5/16" drill and file to shape.
• Drill jet wrench hole using 3/16" drill and file to shape. Use round file to shape curved clearance ends around jet.
• Drill square hole using 5/32" drill and file to shape.
• Drive the key head into the tube on the diagonal.
• Solder down the sides with silver bearing solder.

Enjoy guys and gals!!!

KeyTab.PDF

 

I will not be sending up patterns for the Svea 123/123R windscreen. The price directly from Katadyn/Optimus is $22 plus shipping. I can't make one for that.

 

A while ago I saw a photo of an owner-made stand (for a Svea 123 I believe) consisting of a band around the tank to hold wire pot supports. I thought it was a great ideal and have been thinking about fabricating a couple of them myself…although I would prefer them professionally made.

I’ve mocked it up with titanium tent stakes and silicone bands to illustrate. The tent stakes would be trimmed to proper height of course.

 

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/7815

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/7830

 

Thank you. Those are actually a lot nicer than the one I saw.