I got this the other day. It is pretty clean, I have not cleaned the case. The Jet Cleaner is stuck in th up position. I have Kano Kroil soaking on it. The Fuel Valve works great. The Filler Cap appears to have a good gasket on it. The Pump Cup is in good condition. The NRV was not working. I took it out and apart, and the PIP was missing. I made one from 1/16" Viton x 3/16" dia. I cleaned it removing the "????", and will see when finish the tank. The Tank. The tank had water in it, so it was brown and full of "????". The Wick is broken and pieces are laying in the tank. I will have to recall the "Fearless Fettler" and apply HIGH HEAT to the joint to break the thread-lock. I am curious what the numbers on the case are. More pictures as I finish this in the next week or so. Ken in NC
I just got the Jet Cleanerfree. A little heat, Kano Kroil, and a small piece of sheet brass that protected the shaft from the vice grips I used..... 'Gently'. A little back and forth (must have been) a hundred times or more before the tight shaft was turning free enough to use the key. The Tank needed a lot of heat. Like the 9060 I did. Mapp torch, Kano Kroil, Ove Glove, and a 14 mm wrench. I got it off. I called on the "Fearless Fettler" again. It is not comfortable heating that up so much. But, I was told by Russenjesus that "Very High Heat" is necessary to break the thread lock on that joint. (Thank you again) The Wick is mostly char/powder. I finally got the brass mesh out by blowing air from the burner outlet. And a 3/4" inch piece of unburned wick. Now, pictures and I will put it back together. Ken in NC The brass mesh screen can give you an idea that the amount of wick and wire left is quite small. About 3/4" long. Here it is a bit harder to see the size, I forgot to add something to the photo. The length of the broken off piece of wick is about 3" (inches). This is the piece of wick that came out of the tank before I did anything.
Ken, Congratulations on your latest "Nuther mouth to feed" All of the problems you have listed sound minor points of which you can easily overcome, except for the wick. Be very careful with the needle height adjustment lever, check this post from a few days ago, look for my photos Link One should not be too rough with the needle height lever. I am guilty of being clumsy once and shearing off the small brass excentric pin. What is the date of your stove as indicated on the red instruction plate? Baujahr 19?? (Year manufactured) If you want I can send you a translated instruction sheet, this stove ignites much like any other pressure stove, even if one substitutes spirits for priming. Hope you can get this one rebuilt and running lke a champ!
Thanks Chef, I was careful and it is free. I saw the thread a few days ago, and that's exactly why I was so careful. This morning I learned about the NRV variations, and will change what I did. I had made a small pip for the bucket, but I will take that out and make a washer for the end of the pump tube. Thank you for the post on the variations. Is there a link to the instructions? I was going to look after I got it together. I remember reading something before, but I did not have a 9061 at the time. (So many stoves, so little time. As some one here says.) My title says the date ... 1962. I got it back together last night, the thread lock is curing. But, after I came back in the house, i realized I used galvanized wire for the wick replacement. Now I need to replace it or find it is ok. What temp does galvanized wire emit zinc? Ken in NC
Hi Ken , nice stove. I wouldn't worry about the galvanised wire if it is in the wick. http://archinte.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=561568 930 deg F is around 500 deg C. and your wick will not get that hot. In addition the atmosphere there will be hydrocarbon vapour, not air. Regarding the pump, have a look at the photos in this post: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/20506 Best Regards, Kerophile.
hi Ken, read through this thread for instructions, including English translation: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/18575 Best Regards, Kerophile
Thank you so much George. You really are a great resource of information. Your name was the first one I thought of after the word metallurgy came into my mind. I have 3 sets of Sefa's Enders kits. His cups are the best. But, his kit doesn't have everything for the stove. It seems the PIP and the filler cap gasket would have to be gotten another way. And I didn't take the SRV apart yet. That will take another gasket. Ken in NC
Ken, I have a PDF text file of the translated directions/instructions thay I can E-mail to you. Will get back to you on this later today. The SRV follows one one design which is standard to 9061s and enders babys.
Update. I have read John's and Jeff's posts on teardown. After 2 days of sealing and curing the fuel tank with threadlocker, the jet cleaner was tight again. I took it apart, and could not pull the jet cleaner shaft out. But, it is a lot easier to turn, so I decided to put it back together. All went well until I put the steel retaining collar that holds the small squarestock lock onto the shaft. it appears to have been annealed by the heat I applied to free the shaft. The result is that the collar spreads out, allows the lock (square0 'pin' to rise and the shaft does not turn with the handle shaft. I tried to heat/quench then temper. But, feeble attempt at best. Ken in NC Seen here above the nut, at the top middle of the page. (Taken from John's post on disassembly)
Update: Stove running great. The collar I mentioned having lost it's 'spring' after I heated the jet cleaner shaft: I ended up heating, quenching, & tempering to get the collar to hold it's tension on the square pin. It worked. It holds tension. I have 2 shots below to show that the square pin has rounded edges and square edges. I put the square edges down, into the jet cleaner shaft. I hope that that helps reduce the 'sloppy' feel of the jet cleaner and help keep it in place. I did not ever get the jet cleaner shaft to come out. I held it with a pin vice, and pulled. I spun it so many times I was sure it was freed up, but alas, no go. The jet cleaner is working well, so, I will let it stay. The last shot is a flame shot. Now I know why people like this stove. (After it is fettled, not during) Ken in NC
If I recall, and you mean the jet cleaner shaft, I did not remove that shaft. I was not able to get it to come out. Maybe @presscall can answer.
@GundamChibi The control lever's removed, packing nut unscrewed and slid off the shaft then it's down to gripping the valve block in a vise (with wooden or plastic packing to protect the brass from scoring) and clamping the shaft in another, small, vise or clamp (also with packing). Lever the two apart - careful not to bend the shaft - and it'll budge. @snwcmpr John
