Hello, I recently acquired an Enders 9061 1961 military. No parts tin but has the wrench/spanner. These are not seen as much this side of the pond and will be a nice addition on the shelf. It is pretty encrusted and will need a good re-hab so I read almost all the 9061 fettling articles the search brings up and have now started the dis-assembly process. I must concur it certainly has more bits than a 71! Probably best not to mess around and just replace all replaceables by ordering a kit. Please point me to a source. I'm presently soaking the sliding controls in penetrating oil to allow removal but would carb cleaner do a better job? Perhaps heat? I've used electrolysis very successfully in the past for rust but I'm not sure if that would work for crud. Do I really need a clock "key" to remove the cleaning needle or will long-nose pliers suffice? At present nothing moves and everything is gummed/coked up. Any and all advice very much appreciated. I hope to get it back to operating condition but will not repaint as it has a nice visible history. Thanks Best Rod
Hi Rod, there are several variations of the model 9061. A photo would help identify it, and also give a fix to us stove junkies. Ken in NC
Here are the images the seller used on Craigslist. Everything is pretty well solid. The burner knob and the jet-cleaner lever won't turn. Still soaking in penetrating oil.
The knobs slide out OK but are completely frozen. Neither rotates at all. I started two days ago soaking in WD-40 and then went to Move-it. Still not budging.
I like to use heat. A 'carefully' placed flame from a small butane torch can warm the joint. If joints are particularly hard, I add Kano Kroil to the joint after I warm it. I remember in high school chemistry class the chemical reactions were faster as the temperature rises. But, caution should be 'not to over heat any place that has a gasket'. Or you will have to replace that gasket. The graphite packing would take the heat well though. Sefa, in the trading post, member services sells a really fine pump cup for the Enders stove... HERE. The 9060 tank joint I worked on had a 'thread-lock' sealed joint. I had to be very patient with that fettle. I would warm the joint, add Kano, and let it set for days. I did that for weeks and weeks. Eventually, I had to use very high heat to break it free. But, that is a different stove, and a different problem. You can search the forum for more, but here is a good start to see the parts of your stove .... Presscall breaks down a 9061D. ChefBC should be along soon. He has a few of these. One last thing, I do not see the 'crud' you mentioned. It looks like a fairly clean stove. If you want to clean it, soap and water will work. The let it set in the sun to dry. Ken in NC
Ken, thanks for the input. If I finally resort to heat I'll make sure it's in small doses. All the crud is in the slider tubes as well as freezing the cleaning needle. I've never come across Kano Kroil before. I'll look on their website if it's available in the Great White North. I saw Presscall's excellent dis-assembly of a 9061 and was amazed at the parts count. I'll ask Sefa for a new pump cup. Is there a source for gaskets and o-rings? Thanks again for the advice. Rod GWN
OK - getting there. The fuel control rod has come out but the jet cleaner needle rod is still not coming out but now does turn fairly easily. The little keys in the rods are a surprise and can be quickly lost if you don't watch for them. I think more heat and more Move-It will eventually see it come loose. Looks like Sefa is a good source for a new pump cup and o-rings. Does anyone know of a source for the pump tube NRV gasket and tank pressure release valve gasket? Thanks Rod
I am reading this, but I cannot offer an answer about gaskets. Sorry. Good work. Delta, BC came up in a phone conversation tonight. We were discussing my having hiked the West Coast Trail, and he has a friend in Delta. Ken in NC
Ken, Delta is a suburb of Vancouver, 2.2mil pop, and is located against the south side of the Fraser River. Long and thin, E to W, with 3 distinct residential areas interspersed with agricultural and industrial lands. About 100k population.
Hello Rod, do you need something like this? If you need a graphite tape, you can contact Peter Bendel: http://www.lampenkueche.de/html/verkauf___shop.html Have a nice day Markus(Russenjesus)
Hello Markus, Thanks for the reply. The graphite on both shafts looks OK. What I'm looking for is a source for the gaskets on the tank pressure relief valve and the pump tube NRV. Rod
You will get small o-rings and a large washer with the cups from Sefa. As for pips, the link above mentions some differences in the models of Enders. Some more info HERE. It seems you need to determine the style of NRV you have first. I made washers for mine and got some other washers, from another member, in the mail. Ken in NC
Rod, congratulations on obtaining an Enders 9061. An Enders manufactured in 1962 is identical to one made in1959 or 1966 and so on. Even the civilian versions are the same except for having the brass unplated and the natural brass color showing. There is variance in between the NRV pips and seals which occur in no particular order. The most fragile components of the Enders 9061s are the fuel valve and the needle control lever. One should NEVER attempt to force rotation of the needle elevation lever which controls the height of the needle with an eccentric pin which is brass much like the rest of the stove. If the needle lever is forced it can cause the spindle to crack and be destroyed or cause the eccentric pin to shear off. I will write more when I can type at a normal key board.
Chef BC, thanks for the reply. I did use some force on the needle control lever but all proved too gummed to move. Soaking and heat has loosened it so the lever will rotate and the needle move up and down even if still stiff. BUT no way does the lever want to come out. I have managed to scar up the brass lever shaft a little but it should buff out. As the needle now goes up and down as it should so I think I'll leave it alone. Still looking for the washers and gaskets for the NRV and the pressure valve. Rod
Hello Rod, about the gaskets have a look on my picture:-) you can use a o-ring on the tank pressure relief valve too. Markus
Rod, My apologies for the delay, attempting to get these photos for a post I had hoped to post in the fettling forum. As you can see the first photo is of the needle control spindle with the eccentric pin; the one on the left is good, the one on the right has been sheared off. It also shows one version of a good cleaning needle, I had neglected to mention there are at least two types; one like this photo and another type (sorry no photo available), with a threaded base which is removed with the clock key which is sometimes found in the Enders' spares tin. Admittedly there is a lot going on in this photo, it shows the two spindles for the needle control, good and bad but one still has the graphite seals on it. The procedure I am doing is to remove a frozen needle control spindle on a civilian Enders stove- more on this later. If I had the metal working skills I would either braise or machine a new eccentric pin on the spindle. Until then I will have to harvest parts off of another 9061. Let us know how your project goes. Chef/Harold
Congrats on the 9061, Rod. You'll be pleased at the utility of the 9061. Tough to fettle but once done, you'll see how well the over-engineered piece works. As Ken says, LOTS of heat to remove the fuel tube that is on the tank. sam
Harold, Sam, Thanks for the replies. Much appreciated. I can see that the fuel tube from the tank is VERY well fixed with thread lock evident but looking thru the pressure relief valve hole the tank and siphon cordage look clean so I don't think I need to remove the fuel tube from the tank. I haven't been able to remove the needle spindle from it's tube. It will now turn somewhat freely but won't come out. Question:If the needle is the threaded type does the needle have to be unscrewed before the spindle can come out? I have no key for this if one is required. If the needle is the slot-type I assume then the spindle must come out first before the needle can come out. As the needle does move up and down - with a bit of effort - maybe I'd be better off just leaving it alone? I will add that the designers of this stove were nuts! This is so over-engineered it's ridiculous. A simple Swedish brassie, 8R,111,etc., does the same thing with 4 or five parts! I'm very curious to see how well it performs. In the meantime I've put the silent burner on an 8R just for grins. Rod
Yes Rod, but if simple was good enough, none of us would collect stoves and we would all be using a fire pit. It is still quite possible the wick is less than optimal. My short experience shows that the damage of a wick is not where one will see it. It will be damaged in the vaporizer tube. But, don't replace the wick if the stove fires up and burns well. Trust me, you don't want to have to take off the tank tube, unless you have to. The wick will then be burnt, and you won't know if it was good or not. (You saw my post on tank tube removal?) Ken in NC
