So, I purchased this ~17 years ago from Outward Bound after completing a canoe trip into the BWCA. I recently found it tucked away and decided to get this guy running again. I spent several hours yesterday digging for information which led me to this forum. I believe it is a 111t and was produced in the early-mid 90's and saw heavy use. I dis assembled it to clean the component parts, except for the pipe that leads into the tank where I believe the fuel filter is. Pump was rough but after a little fluid film lubricant is very smooth. Had some fun removing a wood match in the tank lol. Just want to be sure that this is indeed a 111t and not another variant because I intend to run Kerosene through it. Thanks in advance
Hi Luke, welcome to CCS. You appear to have a late model Optimus No.111T, with an embossed tank: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/various-111s.25319/ These are good stoves, with the ability to burn Triple Fuels (The T in its identificaton) so able to burn kerosene, alcohol, or Coleman fuel, with the correct jets, cleaning needles and, in the case of alcohol, air restrictor. The safety release valve (SRV) on the filler cap on your tank looks a bit strange. Is it all there? https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-111t.24174/ Best Regards, Kerophile
Luke; great to see other appreciate this stove! Make sure to continue reading/learning here at CCS as there are so much knowledge (and help to find). And members here love to see pictures.
Took some pics of the fuel cap, it doesn't look like it's missing anything but I could be wrong http://imgur.com/a/YigJR
Just fired her for the first time, and all I could manage was yellow flame, fuel deliver was sputtery
@Luke 1. Check the nipple on your stove. Soes it have a letter stamped on it? If it's "A" it's for running on alcohol. If not, run your stove on kerosene while you sort out your problems. 2. Check your system for leaks. With the tank pressurised, dunk it in water and look for air bubbles. 3. The stove looks well used and has been sitting for 17 years. Replacing all the seals and washers would be a good idea. In the process, give your burner a good clean. If you look in the Reference Gallery you can see a couple of 111s I've refurbished. It is not too difficult to get them running properly - they are the bee's knees, and will last forever. I prefer to run them on kerosene as they have a non-return valve in the pump tube, as distinct from a Coleman-like check valve. Cheers Tony
@Luke All of the above + Like you say there is a fuel filter in the feed pipe, carefully undo the nut securing the burner to the tank, no force to the burner – tank in one hand spanner in other, there is a sealing cone so easy to reattach (no new seal needed). There should be a brass gauze roll in the feed pipe that might need cleaning. Now it’s easier to clean the tank as well. Also be sure to clean both burner caps, use steel wool or similar. There is also the pump and NRV, but you might have gotten that sorted. Sputtery fuel delivery could be partly gasified fuel meaning to cold burner. When starting for the first time make sure you get a good pre heat; pressurize, open the spindle to get fuel in the burner, wipe off excess fuel, fill the spirit cup brim full - with spirit, light. Burn a tank or two through it to make sure it is “driven in” after your fettle; for the future: these things work best with regular use, and used correctly a 111 will last for generations to come. All the best, e
I hate to bring up the jet issue, those discussions go long, but I have a couple of these 111's (111t) just run better with Coleman fuel than kerosene. I am guessing it either has a larger jet or it has widened a bit with use. Keep your eye out for a pump rod that will take a leather pump cup, they are a fraction of the trouble of those O-ring pumps. At least that is my experience and I know a lot of folks here feel the same.
On the issue of the pump: @kerry460 make a conversion kit to change the "O"-ring pump to a leather cup pump. I use them: they are excellent. Tony
thankyou . i like doing things that no body else does . i am slow and slack because i only make them when i am in in the mood . and my aches and pains allow it.; i hope you understand . i realy do not make money from them . i suppose i am saying , if you want one tomorrow it is not likely . but i will help you cheers kerry
So I cleaned up the tank some and checked the fuel filter. Filter looks good to me, bright brass/gold color so I re-assmbled and fired her up. I was stuck with mostly yellow flame and from my reading that meant it wasn't getting enough oxygen. So I decided to make a video of it to share for advice. While shooting the video I decided to show the full range of the throttle (not sure what term you would use there) and when it was wide open I got most of the yellow to shift blue! So I decided to take the jet out, and adjust the throttle/needle positions to see if I could eliminate the rest of the yellow. Had a bit of a scare on the next firing, I had a leak and kerosene was flowing. Smothered the stove with a pile of rags I luckily had nearby. Added a small amount of kerosene to the tank and pressurized it and fuel would squirt through jet with the throttle closed, so I figured I would have to take the needle out and adjust it tighter. Next burn started much better, but I noticed that I was getting some leaking through the threads at the throttle. Should I use some teflon tape(plumbers) to make a better seal? Do I need a new lead gasket?
I'm working with Kerosene right now because working with liquid stoves is new for me. Since this was such a beat up stove that I am trying to bring back into service I thought white gas/coleman fuel was too risky since it is much less stable than kero. I plan on buying a full servicing kit for this guy at some point this summer and replace all the consumable parts. Would definitely be interested in one of those leather cup conversions
May I suggest 2 things. Remove the cleaning needle and try it that way to eliminate that as a problem. And prime with meths twice. Then light it after the meths goes out.
If you've got a leak at the spindle, you can tighten the nut a little bit in order to compress the graphite packing inside. The spindle rotation must be smooth. If not, loosen a little, until you reach the good rigging, a smooth rotation and sealed.
@Luke Getting these things to work takes a bit of patience, but once running properly they are superb and indestructible. The above advice is good, so: 1. Tighten the nut (the packing nut, it's called) on the control wheel spindle 1/4 of a turn. The control wheel should move freely and check for leaking under pressure when the stove is alight. If it still leaks 1/4 turn again. If it gets to the point of still leaking but you can't turn the control wheel properly, you need to replace the graphite packing. 2. Take the pricking needle out and run the stove without it. If it's running well, you can either leave it like that and manually prick the jet, or you can re-seat the needle in the proper way. Check your needle to make sure it's teeth aren't badly burred. 3. Make sure your connections and washers aren't leaking. Let us know how you go. We will help get this thing going! Cheers Tony
@Luke PS. That video looks like too much unvapourised fuel. Make sure you take the time to pre-heat it properly. Do this out of the wind, with a full priming cup of methylated spirits. Let it burn out, pump the tank 6 times, open the control wheel and light the vapour. If pure kero is emerging, you must re-prime. Cheers Tony
I read your post too fast, and on the phone. I thought the leak was from the jet after adjusting the needle. Yes, tighten the packing nut.
