https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/1972-optimus-pressure-camping-stoves-yacht-ranges.9234/ In the 1972 neighborhood. A few years later Optimus went to a key instead of a knob.
@Detroithiker I am not sure I remember all I did to the heat shield. I think I remember 0000 steel wool and metal polish.
So it wasnt plated? I assume there was pitting but the end result looks polished and shiny which would mean the metal was not played or you managed to shin up the metal under the plating?
I just don't quite remember. It is even possible that I had another heat shield laying around in the junk bin. But my only donor stove was even worse than the one I fettled.
Hi, regarding approximate dating of you Op.8R; have a look at what Bryan Miller and others said about the evolution of control knobs/keys and SRVs on this stove model: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/ptc-post-ptc-optimus-8rs.15471/ The heat shields of Op.111 and Op. 8R stoves are mild steel with Cr or Ni/Cr electro-plating I believe. Best Regards, Kerophile..
Can I just order a replacement cleaning needle or do I need to know the correct size? The needle is broken off so I tried a friends needle and jet but his seemed to have a larger orifice so I'm not sure it was the right jet. The stove never settled down to a blue flame but works fine in his. Now his stove is also an 8R it has the decal on still but is newer with a different filler cap and and metal key as opposed my my bakelite knob.
@Detroithiker You should be able to get the correct needle and a new nipple (jet) from The Base Camp (UK) or from fogas.se . Cheers Tony
@Detroithiker , you said the jet works OK in your friend's 8R but with yellow flames in yours? Have you compared the height of the flame deflectors? I think yours sits to low on the bell. One can fine-tune 8R's and similar burners by "playing" a bit with the position of the flame plate. Best regards, Wim
Can't get to the wick! It will not unscrew, I am afraid of damaging the soft brass, I tried a wrench and tried carfully using a vice and all I could do damage the hex, as soon as I felt it slip I stopped trying so the damage us very minimal but I just don't see how it will loosen up before the brass just get rounded off.
Penetrating oil. The best is acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Second is Kano Kroil. Drop some on the threads every day for a while. Note: WD40 is not penetrating oil.
I'll second what Ken said, and stress time and patience. It didn't get stuck that hard in a day, it may not come free in a day or even a week.
