Greetings fellow camp stove Brothers! I got a really cool Svea 123 stove for free in some boxes of stuff that a lady wanted me to haul off for her. She essentially paid me to take this stove, lol. I used it for a couple years out in Colorado but it went into one of my boxes for a few years and I moved east and ran across it again recently. I want to bring it back up again. I've started shining the brass, but somehow the little bent legs which the pot sits on have escaped. All three of them. The little cup for the top never was there when I got it. The key is gone too, but I figured out that a #2 clock key will fit it and I have a clock store local that has brass ones! I can't find any replacement legs or pot stand rods anywhere though. Do any of you fellows know where to get some? I could prolly even make some if I knew what size those rods were. This is a nice stove! It works great.
Check out the Base-Camp web site. http://www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html You can also look around Fogas web site. http://www.fogas.se/produkter/ You need to know if it is a Svea 123 or Svea 123R you have. Michael
I don't know offhand, but if you take the windscreen to a decent hardware store or welding supply you should be able to find something that fits. Actually, I'm being lazy. Hold on. They are 4mm or about 1/8" diameter. Vertical section (to the outside of the bend) is 1-11/16" (43mm). Horizontal section is 1" (25mm). The vertical section length is important for optimal heat transfer and limiting the production of carbon monoxide. The horizontal length is not crucial. You may want to make it longer so it's a better pot support. Be aware, though, that using too wide a pot will reflect more heat down at the stove, and can cause it to overheat. Welcome to CCS. ....Arch Edit: Ah, yes. These measurements are for a Svea 123. The 123R (with the self cleaner) may be different.
@ArchMc beat me to it. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/svea-123-pot-supports.24771/#post-253964 Best Regards, Kerophile.
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Somewhere here on CCS there are posts about using nails as pot supports. If memory serves, 16-penny nails were used which are the right diameter and about 3.5 inches in length. Cut the head, grind off the sharp tip and bend them.
Here I am! I hadda heck of a month in December but things are slowing down a bit at work for me so it's back to fiddling with the camping gear. Some good replys here, thanks so much! I made some temporary pot legs from wire hangers but they was too small so I had to bend them over and squash them flat to fit in the slots. The don't turn now but will work. I will take the windscreen to the hardware with me and get some brass stock of the right size. I have a new problem though. I wanted to clean it all up and I disassembled it, the jet needed cleaning so I reamed out with my twist drill reamer thing, and it wasn't to my satisfaction so I thought if I carefully start small and work up that I could get the twist drill that is the exact size of my jet and clean it good. You can guess what happened. I trashed my jet and now it wont burn right because I enlarged the orifice. Optimus has replacement jets? I looked at their site and the svea doesn't seem to be listed, so which stove should I order the jets for so it will fit my SVEA 123? Or what size is the orifice? I have a Akerue Industrys LLC (Walmart) single burner propane stove also, and it's orifice is very small, but isn't stamped what size...I *think* it must be a smaller orifice than the white gas SVEA since propane is pressurized, but I am not sure because I opened up the SVEA orifice. If I knew the SVEA orifice size (and the LP orifice is indeed smaller) then I could open it up to work in my SVEA stove. It actually screws right into the SVEA stove by chance.
Base camp has jets. I just bought some. Make sure that you get the right ones for your version. 123 or 123R. The hole for the 123 is about .009", do you have a drill that small? I do, and they are very difficult to work with.
Whoa, that's small! No I don't have one that small. My smallest one is a #80 (.0135) No wonder it don't burn right, lol! Thanks!
I thought about that but have never done it. I've been looking around for some orifice blanks locally that I can drill out. (After chasing down a single .009 twist drill!) but I can't find any with the same thread to screw it in. I'm used to dealing with orifices for furnaces & water heaters, so thought I could do this too, but I sure messed up my original awful fast, lol. but those furnace orifices are more in the range of number 42's (.0935)...much bigger!
I just checked and my local Lowes has 1/8" brass stock. 3 feet long for 3 bucks! Thanks for the measurements brother! I can do that!
If you want to replace the cup with something more practical... go with the larger gsi glacier bottle cup and a dzo lid. Either of the current gsi cups fit over the 123.
Svea 123 question here. Attached a video link to my stove starting and not burning well. Need some advice from you experts. It worked for many years, sat and then ran inconsistently, then just lazy yellow flame. I replaced the fuel. I replaced the wick and copper gasket pasted the generator threads upon reassembly. I replaced the cap and srv pip gaskets. I packed the needle shaft with graphite coated thread (plumbers product). Graphite sheet on the way. I pressure tested it (cold stove, hot water). No leaks when valve off. Didn’t try it when opened up. Why does it burn so poorly? Thanks in advance! Rob iCloud Shorter version (and hopefully faster download. iCloud
Thanks snwcmpr. It felt that way, as time went by, it got more and more clean. But 20 minutes at 30 degrees and still not cranking? I’ll admit to low experience in colder temps. In cold weather, should I heat the tank and generator stalk with a gas soaked fiber wick like Tony has demonstrated?
