I have a 111B that is missing the latch that holds the lid closed. I searched online, but I couldn't seem to find a "parts or repair kit" that would include this item. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim
nope. It's a bent pc of spring steel. All I can think of is to get some stock, bend it so it has a subtle catch, and solder it on. Look around the collectors galleries for an example of what it looks like. Just a slight bend to it is all it takes.
Interesting thread as I?ve been meaning to post about re attaching spring clips. Maybe a quality problem with later manufacturing but I?ve a 111 with a loose case clip and an 8 with soon to be lost spanner clip. The spot welding gives way very easily. Anyone any thoughts on the best re-attachment method.
I've got an 8R with a missing spanner clip and I have piles of debris including many kinds of metal and a spot welder. It would be easy to make a new clip and weld it on, but spot welding would leave an upset mark and burned paint on the outside of the case that would bother me until I repainted the case which would bother me because then I'd get all anal about not marring the new paint which would have occupied many hours for which I might have invoiced instead. And I don't have the spanner anyway and I never liked the way those cheesy little spanners fit in the clip so, though I'm forced by marginal sanity to think about replacing the clip every time I see the spot where it isn't, in fleeting rational moments I think that it's easy to accept the loss of the clip. On that 8R I replaced the giant burgundy control knob with one of the little keys that has wrench hexes stamped into it, which saved a couple of pounds anyway. If I had a missing latch tab then I'd be in a fix because that would bother me until I did something about it. Welding and painting would be the "correct" way, and if you find yourself without a spot welder, say your plane has crashed in the Libyan desert, then you could solder the latch instead but that would really fubar the paint. A craftsmanly alternative would be to drill a hole or 2 and reattach the latch with a rivet, but it should be a solid peened rivet, not a pop rivet. Either a dimpled flush rivet or a domed-head rivet would look good, I'm talking steel or aluminum aircraft-style. Some of the WOED* regional events will include workshops on clip replacement and related mental health issues. *Worldwide Optimus Eight Day - 8-8-08 Best... Gary Gary
Oops, I am an old guy. It's the look of the pop-rivet head that I don't like, but you're absolutely right, a pop-rivet will do. Thanks, Gary
I was sure I wasn?t the only one having sleepless nights over this particular conundrum. Taking the apply heat approach, which of the options had others tried and which was the most successful? Has anyone had attempted to re-spot weld and is this good long term. Can you get away with plain soldering, is this just as effective as the spot weld. Riveting would seem a slightly more drastic approach due to irreversible drilling required, although it seems to me that all methods would require a paint job to complete the process. I?m favouring a simple solder job at the moment.
If your'e thinking solder ..Think silver solder .. & this only for the fiddly spanner clip . The heat required for silsol will probably upset the tempering of the front spring clip . Id go spot weld (localised heating) but dont have a spot welder .. so its a rivet or nuts and bolts . Just my 10 bobs worth Nick
I dunno; JB weld? that's what I use. worked on the tranny cooling line to the radiator in my '74 Cadi hearse, shld work on a stove.
I think I'm with Hobo on this one, a good metal glue should hold it in place as it's not highly stressed.
Glues and cements are futile at best. In lieu of a proper spot weld, I'd go for a rivet, either ye olde fasshyndde or pop. If you could find a real wrought iron rivet, that would be the very best. Next best would be copper. Third, a pop rivet. My $0.02 Gerry
A spot weld will upset the paint the least - you could cover it with an amusing sticker. Enough heat to solder will scorch several square inches of paint inside and out. A friendly sheetmetal place ought to spot-weld it for cheap and an A&P (airframe and powerplant; airplane mechanic) or airplane homebuilder could squeeze a solid rivet for you. Or, send it to me and I'll spot weld it for free. Gary
Looks like I?ll have to hunt down out a tame spot welder locally, although I?ve never been a huge fan of the method as it seems to give way all too readily. As evidenced by the handle falling of a ladle last night whilst washing up, and I hadn?t even hit anyone with it.
Hi I haven't got a spot welder so would plug or puddle (same thing) weld it. Drill a hole in one bit and snot a weld through the hole onto the other part. Stronger than a spot weld but needs to be neat. I like the aesthetic attributes of proper rivets done with a set & snap but you would need to use two to stop the clip rotating.
I have a 111 case where the L shaped brackety thing that hold the tank has come away, I really must find a tame spot welder to repair it. As red says drill a hole and weld is a way which will do for me on the drop down front but this may buckle the larger area of the lid
