1942 stamped 520 - 4 legger

Discussion in 'Military' started by idahostoveguy, Aug 4, 2009.

  1. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy R.I.P.

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    So the question is, will the earlier 520s run on diesel/kero or is the generator really that different?

    Also, I stand corrected on the priming cup issue. Very interesting information.

    Thanks everyone,
    sam
     
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  2. flivver United States

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    Sam: The literature/data I have states the early ones are also duel fuel. But so far all the "official" data seems to be incorrect/ inconsistent on just about everything concerning the 520. Give kero a try and let us know. Mine is fed nothing other than Coleman fuel. Sam I was ready to agree with you that it seemed only the "M" series 520 had primers until Simbat posted his non "M" 1943 with primer cup: back to the drawing board. Mike...
     
  3. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy R.I.P.

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    Mike,

    I'm like you, I only ever use Coleman fuel in my stoves that burn white gas, even if they say they will burn auto gasoline. Keeps them cleaner. I don't think I will attempt to burn kero in the '42 stamped 520, but it is tempting...

    sam
     
  4. Knight84

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    I always thought when Coleman said dual fuel they meant White gas (coleman fuel) and/or Leaded Gas.

    They talk about burning leaded fuel in the 520 and scraping the underside of the burner plate.
    Kero in a 520... indeed tempting

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  5. hydro451

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    Hi all,

    Knight84 thanks for the info on the nomenclature involved with these stoves - so all "M-1941"'s are really 520/530"s, regardless if they have 4 feet, 3 feet or no feet, a nickle covered brass tank or a steel tank,a priming cup or not, large or small filler opening ?

    How about the "M-1942" mountain stove? If you look at the spare parts package for the "M-1941" on Ebay now it shows a designation for a "M-1942" as a two-burner stove, known as the 523. So the military had two stoves designated the "M-1942" ?
    ](*,)


    Tom
     
  6. itchy

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    And a lot of other stuff. ;)

    As to priming cups, I think the 530 would be better with one. As is, mine is quite a light show in the dark while it warms up.

    I have run kerosene the M-1950 (but not the '41 or '42), it works OK with a good alcohol prime, but it still had to run several minutes before it was burning evenly. I would hate to have to prime it with kero but if the wick is still in the priming cup, and that is all you had, it might work.
     
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  7. ulysses

    ulysses Subscriber

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    This very interesting thread has inspired me to inventory my stoves of this series. I found:

    1. My M1941, made by Coleman and dated 1943, does not have the prime cup.

    2. The M1942 (Mountain) stove, made by Prestis Warbers (stamped P-W)is dated 1-44 and does not have a prime cup. Interestingly, it it stamped "M42 - MOD". Does this mean it was made for the British government?

    3. The two M1942 two burner medical / vehicle stoves are both dated 1945, and both have prime cups.

    4. The 530, dated B 46, does not have a prime cup.

    5. The two M1950 stoves, dated 1951 and 1983 (long production run), both have prime cups.

    The discussion inspired me to try and get the relatively early M1941 back into operation. I have never had it running. Today I found:

    1. The cleaning needle was bent and I straighened it with fine needle nose pliers.

    2. I pulled the fine bronze mesh from the generator and applied heat from a propane torch to burn the crap out of it.

    3. I replaced the fuel cap gasket.

    4. Oiled the pump cup.

    Air will pass through the jet, but I'm not getting any fuel, except for an little burst when I first open the valve. I suspect it may have a clogged fuel intake in the tank, but I'm not sure how to proceed in seperating the tank / font from the upper stove assembly. Any advice on doing this job would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    Paul
     
  8. Littledre

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    Paul I have a PDF document of the instructions, parts and servicing for a coleman 520. I think this could help, if your interested please PM me and I will email it over.
    Den.
     
  9. Knight84

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    Hi Tom

    All M-1941's are 520's at heart, give or take some differences. "regardless if they have 4 feet, 3 feet or no feet, a nickle covered brass tank or a steel tank,a priming cup or not, large or small filler opening." Yes, all 520's There are some early 520's (M-1941) that have a nickel plated brass tank. They look very similar to the 530. There were only 1000 to 1204 made like that. They quickly made 5000 before the invasion of Africa. The stove evolved along the timeline. Nickel and brass weren't used to save on resources. And the prime cup was added to please the military.

    The 530 is also know as the G.I. pocket stove. A copy of the 520 but without feet and spare parts... It was made for civilian use where the 520(m-1941) was made for the military.

    The M-1942 mountain stove uses similar parts as the 520 and two burner m-1942. They gave a mess kit that number too... they seem to like to date things and use the letter M. They two burner stove saw action/use into the 60's 70's. Good source of parts for the 520.

    Jeff
     
  10. Knight84

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    Hi Paul,

    Have you tried putting some ball bearing or nuts inside the tank and giving it a shake?

    Jeff
     
  11. Knight84

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    Sorry it took me some time to find this photo.

    To remove the burner from the tank/font you almost have to remove everything. :lol: It is easy... just be gentle.
    The knob has to come off. Simple flat head screwdriver. Then the stuffing box nut has to be removed. Then place the knob back onto the valve spindle, you don't need the screw. Turn it open until it just seems to be spinning. Take off the knob. Now with a pair of pilers and a cloth over the spindle to protect it from the pilers. Gently pull the spindle out. It is a lot like an Optimus 111/8r/123. You will need to loosen the nut on top of the supports by the neck of the burner riser. Now you can use a wrench or adjustable pilers to turn the whole burner out. You will have to come from all openings around the pot supports. If that makes any sense. :lol:

    1249601002-IMG_1503_opt.jpg

    Hope this helps
    Jeff
     
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  12. ulysses

    ulysses Subscriber

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    Thanks Jeff, Den and Mike.

    I did manage to get the stove apart and found that the fuel pick-up rod was stuck in the pick-up hole and the spring was broken. I replaced the rod, spring and tube from a junk two burner medical stove and put everything back together. That was the good news.

    The bad news is that I apparently cracked the tank while holding it in a wood workers vice to put some torque on the burner assemble. There may have been rust from inside the tank so finding a dangerous problem now may have been a good thing in the long run. Anyone have a junk but sound tank?

    Paul
     
  13. Knight84

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    Hi Paul,

    I am sorry to hear about the tank. :frown: :frown: RonPH also had a cracked tank. I think his was made of brass.
    Link

    I will keep an eye out for a spare tank. There was an old junk 520 on ebay a month ago. Could you fix up the old medical stove with the parts?

    Best regards,
    Jeff
     
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  14. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy R.I.P.

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    Paul,

    That is really sad. I have only had one stove spring a leak in a tank before, but I was able to fix it since it was on a seam and was able to solder it.

    Take care and good luck,
    sam
     
  15. ChrisQ

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    Ulysses,
    in the 1940's the MOD (Ministry of Defence ) did not exist. It was the W * D ( War "King's crown" Department).
    The MOD came into existence in 1971,see www.mod.uk/DefenceInternet/AboutDefence/.../HistoryOfTheMOD/
    so the markings do not imply manufacture for the British Government

    ChrisQ
     
  16. ChrisQ

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    Sorry, the link did not transfer properly, seems it is too long. Will need to add www. at the start of the web address below

    mod.uk/DefenceInternet/AboutDefence/.../HistoryOfTheMOD/

    ChrisQ
     
  17. ulysses

    ulysses Subscriber

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    The problem / crack is about a 1 inch section in the circumfrential (SP?) indentation at the base of the tank. It looks more like a rust-through area, possibly from condensation in the tank over a long period of time. I'm going to attempt to lay some solder in the opening today, but I'm not overly optimistic. The crack may indicate other areas weakened by rust.

    One of the two burner medical stoves I have is a junker, and I was able to salvage the fuel pickup tube, rod and spring. A perfect fit on the two year earlier M1941.

    Paul
     
  18. Knight84

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    Hi Paul

    The MOD on your M-1942 mountain stove means modified.
    Almost all of these stoves where changed to the standard control knob setup from the original design.

    Those 523's are great for parts. Another member needs a control knob and burner head.

    Best regards,

    Jeff
     
  19. ulysses

    ulysses Subscriber

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    Jeff:

    Thanks for the infor on what "MOD" means on the M1942 "mountain" stove. At this point, I'm planning on keeping it. Doug / ExeterYak is making a new NRV spring, and it should work when re-assembled.

    The cracked / rusted tank is on the M1941. Big disappointment. The opening is ragged, more like a rust through from the inside. I'll be looking for a sound tank / font, if I can find a junker. I'm also looking for one of the curved pot holder assemblies, with the verticle leg, for an M1950, if you know of a source for parts.

    I'm interested in the nomenclature of US military stoves. I have a 521, a big two quart single burner, dated 53 A, that has a similar burner to the two burner medical stove. A friend has the small, horizontal single burner medical stove with the sterilizer container and racks. Is there a reference for these military stoves?

    Paul
     
  20. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy R.I.P.

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    The small horizontal stove sounds like the 527 posted here at CCS.



    sam
     
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