about 1-1 1/2second intervals. I ran out of fuel from one can and refilled it with some older (opened) Coleman fuel. The fuel had a slight brown tint, so I am guessing that it is no longer unadulterated, and the flare ups are from impurities. Can anyone here shed some light on this theory, I am new to these stoves and I am only guessing.
If what you are doing doesn't work, don't do it anymore. Yeah, sounds like there is something in the fuel that the 8R does not like.
You might try giving the burner a really good preheat or two using marine stove alcohol. Some fresh fuel would also help your effort. My Svea will do the same with too cool of a burner.
Picked up some Primus fuel at the Outdoor store today. Did not have time to put a full tank thru yet; but the sputtering has all but gone- just no pressure now- finicky little muthas aren't they? Also will order some Viton gaskets. Still no word on a suitable substitute for the graphite packing. Anyone... ?
a maintenance kit is available for the 123R/8R here. (i keep one on hand for when i'll need it in 20 years) p.s. as a bonus, the included jet (nipple) will work w/my 111!
Hi Ed, This is the graphite cord I bought (from the UK) to use as packing for stove valve stems: Graphite twist cord Similar products are available in the US. Yonadav
EdPDX You might also want to have a look at the wick. I had pulsing and flaring with mine and I found the wick had worked it's way out of the vaporiser tube. There is a very good tutorial on these stoves here - https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/92 Dave.
Ed, Since your stove is a clone and not an Optimus, do not count on the parts of the kit fitting. You mentioned earlier that your cap safety valve was leaking, it that is still the case you may never get a strong flame -- until that is fixed.
They really aren't that fussy, they just like clean fuel. If you go over to a plumbing parts store with your fuel cap, they should be able to find a neoprene or nitrile washer for it, I've got one here that's used for the connection between the hose and pipe on a hand-held shower head. It'll work better than what you've cobbled up, and you can get a much better feel for how well your little 8R clone works! Murph
Fuel cap seals are easy, just nip down to your local auto parts joint and pick up a selection of nitrile O rings, most likely already in a 'handyman' pack. If they are for power steering or fuel line repairs etc, they'll be nitrile. The lil brute should be be galloping by now! I've run most of my petrol stoves on unleaded pump gas more times than I can count, just do it outside, the additives burning off are a bit of a witch's brew.
I wish an O-ring would work, but the way the cap's made, you really need a flat washer to get the proper seal, IMO. If a O-ring worked, I'd have nicked one out of the repair kit we have for faucet washers and the like, but, alas, no joy. Murph
"O" rings made for use with water will not work with fuel. Repeat NOT WORK with fuel. They will disolve into a goooey mess which will result in leaks and fireballs. The collective wisdom of this site, the insistance Ross has made in creating the various boards of this forum would suggest that any suggestion made by a member would be reviewed by other members. Such review results in any and all unsafe actions being striken from the Fettleing forum through peer review. This ensures that only safe and proven repairs get forwarded to our members or guests. i have sealed many stoves of many different kinds with automotive quality "O" rings and never had a failure. AND they fit fine so long as you use a proper size. Right now i have at least 10 stoves of this type or similar with "O" ring seals and nary a leak or failure. LANCE
