geeves, thanks for the follow up question; yep, letting her thaw out completely and taking the opportunity to wash her out; amazing how much crud was in the reservoir ; Lou
OK, Gentlemen, just took her out of the freezer and these are the results with about a 95% fill of the canister. yippiii think we are into something good thanks again to all cheers Lou
Hey! That looks great! Congratulations! Lou, you're going to have a nice stove when this is all done. Great work. sam
I use the freezing technique to eliminate dinks in the "seagull 102" outboard brass tanks (just a barrel shaped tank) it works great. the thing is to check often, as freezing water can have a really destructive power. Now I know it can be done with stove tanks too. Great! Orsoorso
You could try thawing once more and refreezing with the same water but I would leave as is. To go further is a real risk of stress cracks. Others might give you an annealing process to reduce that risk. Im not up with whats required
Gentlemen, any thoughts on annealing to reduce stress cracks?; am going to have to heat her again to remove all the solder residue; was thinking about using my Dremel BUT I heated it a lot trying to get the brass screws to stick enough to pull the dent out but it was VERY unsuccessful as soon as the solder got underneath the screw it would slide towards the flat side of the dent ; probably going to leave her like she is and just clean her up a bit put the Valor burner on her when she comes in, fettle the NRV when the lead seals arrive and new pump leather after soldering the riser; any suggestions on solder for the riser?should I use a soft solder or go with a 5-15% silver solder? ; thanks in advance; cheers Lou
geeves; she was already in the freezer again with just a bit more water and now most of the dents are gone; most of the discoloration is from my clumsy soldering attempts ; here are a few pix taken about 1/2 hour ago; at this point am bout ready to desist on further freezing and will probably heat her up to remove residual solder and if I get the lead seals in the mail tomorrow will pull the NRV and solder the riser; just wondering which solder would be the best for the riser; open to suggestions; cheers Lou
Hi Lou, the tank-to-riser joint on these classic stoves was originally lead/tin soft solder, although there is/was also a mechanical attachment, with a nut or rolled seam on the inside to the tank top. The solder acts more as a seal, whilst the nut provides the strength. The solder would be an electrician's mix rather than a plumber's, which goes through a pasty stage on solidifying. https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/107381 https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/118288 Good Luck, Best Regards, Kerophile.
Thanks again George; was figuring there was a rolled seam inside as she would not come out will give a warm up and then wire brush; gosh so many little details cheers Lou
well my obstinacy came back to bite me after the ice thawed out this is what I have now; poor little Arara but the dent is mostly nearly all gone so at least the riser tube is not abutting the reservoir bottom. need help and advice on repairs..... should I patch or just solder? ? Gentlemen, thanks again for the thoughtful advice and teaching; Lou
Hi, this topic has been discussed on CCS before the current experiment: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/170 You did manage to push the dent out of the base, mainly by freezing. However, the dent area would have been well annealed (softened) by the many soldering operations and therefore more amenable to moving out when the freezing water stress increased. It looks like once the dent was almost fully removed, the Laws of Physics kicked in and failure actually occurred in the wall section rather than the tank base. Best Regards, Kerophile.
George, as usual you are correct ; the last part of the dent that was not pushed out was the part beside the rolled edge and it is still partially there; that was the part that I did not try to solder a screw to as felt it was not amenable because of the "brow" caused by the wall and the base dent coming together; thus had not been annealed as the rest of the dent was done; OH well; got the lead seals for the NRVs in this morning so will concentrate on that and give thought on soldering; perhaps a patch? ; will post the results as they happen; cheers and thanks again Lou
You can tap it flat and solder a patch over the hole. It would be tidier to do from the inside but that means unsoldering the bottom which would have made undenting so much easier
Hi Geeves, as far as I know you can't un-solder a tank base successfully as the tank base is mechanically attached by a rolled seam, before the join is sealed using solder. Have you ever taken out a tank bottom or seen one removed and replaced successfully? Do Tell, Regards, Kerophile
Hi Kero. I am sure there is a thread by Lance or Ian, I can't recall exactly, or find it now, where a pump tube was soldered to the fuel pick up. They removed the base, fixed it and replaced the base. I am pretty sure it was Lance. There is also a thread where Barra replaced the end of a range tank.
am scratching my head on which way to turn; enticing would be taking off the bottom and repairing it from the inside BUT am afraid it has a rolled seam same as on the riser tube.....tapping it flat and soldering or brazing a small piece of copper or brass sheeting over it might be the most expedient option.....I got this as a donor for sheet metal for the Electrified Solus; but as many hours as have spent on her won't be happy till have brewed some coffee on her burner but definitely open to suggestions and advice; learning is great thank you gentlemen! Lou
Here is the other one I mentioned, it does not meet the requirements of keros question but as I mentioned it, here is the link. https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/62053