ARARA resurrection? possible? COMPLETED!

I was sure I had read about the method here somewhere so in response to the question I had a go at it myself. Don't worry I didn't destroy a font that had any chance of ever being a stove again. Did learn a few things though.

1: you are correct It is a rolled edge with the solder only as a seal. You cannot just unsolder it
2: Brass heated to near red is crumbly and just breaks off in small pieces Once it cools it can be bent but its a fine line between hot enough to melt the solder but cool enough to be able to bend.

Then I lit 2 silent burners as penance.

 

Hi Geeves, Thanks for reporting the experiment. Others now don't have to do it.

I can't understand why you had to approach the Melting Point of brass before the solder would melt and disperse. The melting point of brass is 900 to 940 °C, 1652 to 1724 °F, depending on composition.

Electricians solder, 63/37 Lead/Tin alloy, melts at 183 °C (or 361.4 °F)

It is possible that liquid Lead/Tin solder will penetrate the grain structure of brass if the two are in contact for too long at high temperatures. This phenomenon is called liquid embrittlement.

That might explain why you observed the brass becoming crumbly and breaking into smaller pieces.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi Yellowdog.
My challenge was:

"As far as I know you can't un-solder a tank base successfully as the tank base is mechanically attached by a rolled seam, before the join is sealed using solder. Have you ever taken out a tank bottom or seen one removed and replaced successfully?"


I have studied both of the links you provided.

The second, as you acknowledge is not relevant since it was the end, rather than a tank bottom which was removed.

The first, You must be joking! Sometimes the kindest reply is silence.

Regards,
Kerophile.

 

No, I was not joking, You asked if a base could be removed and replaced. That is exactly what happened in this thread. Not sure why you are being rude to me, it is not your usual style and I was only trying to help.

 

Gentlemen, have another question for this forum; would it be advisable to stop drill the crack as in aviation prior to soldering a patch?; thanks in advance; cheers
Lou

 

Yes, with a fine drill. Then solder a patch or 4% silver solder the crack and drill hole.

 

That was accidental. The plan had been to melt the solder with the tank on its side so the bulk of the solder would run out. Most came out easy enough but trying to get the rest out I heated a little more than I should have. I wasn't expecting a butane blowlamp to be able to get it that hot especially as it was 5C in the garage until I saw the dull red glow.

 

OK, a wee bit more progress? and more problems also; stop drilled the crack after tapping the bulged out ruptured area back into place;

then attempted to braze with Silver Braze; kept running off with poor penetration probably not tinning enough and although the surface was squeeky clean and had good flux.


not happy with these first results ........so, just do it again using 5% Silver solder this time.

better but no beauty; heck of a lot harder to silver solder or braze than to use a stick welder or Mig!!
OK so now with heating the poor girl up so many times and giving the Kroil oit time to set; let me see if I can get the plunger/pump rod out......wrap the knurled area with a good heavy rag; bit more heat and off she comes with the knurling intact ; yipppiiiii!..Uh Oh!......whoa!;

more fun ; plunger remains in electrolysis now; will see how she does; criticisms and advice welcome; including negatives;

NOW; advice and suggestions needed on methods to clean out the pump tube.
and how in the devil to keep the solder from running off a curved surface? ; with a stick or wire welder just a tack or two and you are good to go ; brazing is a LOT more difficult cause it RUNS OFF thanks in advance
Lou

 

OK, a bit more work this evening; soldered the riser in place, as always the devil of a time getting the solder to stay on a round surface finally in place and it leaks and surprise found another crack, and another;


crack number 2 this was in a place that was bashed in
George; can't take the blame for this one


crack number 2 repaired

Gentlemen, new priorities;
# 1 repair all the leaks, including the riser and also the bottom seam in a couple of places + the pressure relief valve seems to be leaking at the seam?,
# 2 get the NRV out; was able to loosen it nicely BUT do not have a tool thin enough to take hold of it and place traction while I unscrew it; it is nicely loosened BUT it will not come out so there must be a piece of gasket material holding it back; BerneyDawg had a very nice little gadget to take care of that problem looked something like a surgeons forceps but can't find the post and feel pretty ignorant appreciate in advance all the help; cheers;
Lou

 

At what point does it become not worth saving? Another way to look though is at all the new skills this project is teaching

 

Hi Lou, I'm with geeves on this one and wouldn't want to use it with any fuel. St. Jude, Patron Saint of lost causes and desperate situations springs to mind.

Do an ebay search on "Artery Forceps" or "Alligator Forceps".

Here is the link to a post that you might have seen:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/14399

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

George & Geeves, yes, honestly it is probably not worthwhile to continue to get her going BUT perhaps a product of innate stubborness to try to get her at least to burn once more as she was meant to do.......the last "HurraH" ; and getting to learn a lot of new tricks for this old dog .
placed an order for the "alligator" forceps to help get out the NRV that is loose but some how caught where I cannot bump it out although it is completely unscrewed.....she will never be pretty but one little step at a time; only 3? more leaks to go would not have ever tried to resurrect this one without y'alls support and wisdom; thanks again
cheers;
Lou

 

Lou,
I suspect that in years to come many members, current and future, will thank you for sticking at it with this one. Once you've given it a clean, even if it only ever fires up once, this thread contains most, if not all, of the steps that a stovie might need to go through to get an otherwise scrapable brassie up and running.
Thank you for being so obstinate and sticking with it.
regards
John

 

As Cmdr. Peter Quincy Taggart says, "Never give up, never surrender!"



sam

 

Hi Sam, how about this one?

“If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Then quit. No use being a damn fool about it.”
― W.C. Fields

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

George; who said I was smart? but plain mule stubborn I agree on that one and just didn't feel like cutting her up to patch the electrified Solus; heck had never even heard of an ARARA and probably never ever see one ever again

I plan to close a few more leaks this evening; cheers
Lou

 

Gentlemen; couple more leaks closed filler cap neck


pretty ugly though but no leaks

and yet another problem shows its ugly head
how do I get solder penetration between the reservoir riser neck and the riser w/o taking it apart and cutting the rolled edge?

have wire brushed the devil out of it, cleaned with brake cleaner and wire brushed it over and over + so much acid flux that it has run down into the floor.
After couple of hours working on it CANNOT obtain solder penetration into the joint ; if I could take it apart could clean the inside of the neck with a round wire brush but that would entail cutting the riser neck and I have misgivings about this option, appreciate guidance and as always; thanks in advance, cheers
Lou

 

I like really thin solder. Have you tried masking off the places you don't want the solder to go? For brazing I use tooth paste, I think it works for soldering too.

Good on you, I would have not even started this project.

 

Not happy with the filler cap repair. You see the definite line between the solder and font. It looks like a gap probably filled with flux. This would be caused by either not enough cleaning or the font not hot enough. Solder should have flowed to a smooth join.

Second problem. I would have expected the riser to have been threaded but if not and if soldering is the best answer I have to ask what flux you are using. Best choice is a liquid plumbers flux that is mainly phosphoric acid. Can't remember the brand name but it comes in a green bottle.

 

100% with you and not happy AT ALL with the results; have tried the toothpaste but it wanted to flow where it was not needed ; the joint at least 2 hours last night trying to get it this one joint to quit leaking as soon as the font is hot enough the solder runs off; think part of the problem not to mention my clumsiness and ignorance is the difficulty in getting the solder to run into the "crevices" of the joint; at this point after getting her to quit leaking under pressure was content to let her be - fow now! - knowing I won't be happy till it looks a lot better; just want the leaks plugged to get her to burn ONCE after that; tackle one ugly thing at a time is the plan

thanks YD and cheers
Lou