Thx Dean your a legend! Have you a link to buy the epoxy as I’ve only got one to do for the Svea 5. As they the Mova & RM has gone another home. Thank again. Bri
You can get the brand like Araldite or maybe JB Weld. They used to sell a cheapy one in Poundland - like a pair of syringes that you press down together to get the same amount of resin and hardener. It was ok the first time you used it!
Hi pal, I’ve got some JB weld coming. Don’t know when I’ll tackle the Svea leg mind lol. Out of interest as Ross (fettlebox) is stoves out with work could any help or confirm what washer kit from fettlebox for: Parasene (I think kit E?) Svea 5 the king. Already getting the monitor kits soon. Thanks so much Bri
Thanks so much. I thought that if its too much for me. I'll try over the weekend, as the JB Weld suposed coming today. Off into the workshop and 'dry run' ideas i have for clamping. Have a great weekend. Bri
One thing i know with my 'one hand' operation in the workshop, i spend my time thinking on addaptions (jigs & clamps etc.) Also i have clamps (used for photo frames) could be used for 'dry run' Thought about the actual Dremel Clamp once i JB welded to hold it in place, easy said and done with one arm. But guys & girls i'll find a way. Option 1. Dremel clamp. Keyed the area and cleaned with iso whatsitchops lol. then cleaned the leg. I have an idea of the actual gluing, ill let you know prob in a 24 hrs if it works, the gluing and clamps. Take care, Bri
If you are using Epoxy resin you could consider cable ties for securing the legs in place during assembly. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi Bri, Hold it all together with the Dremel clamp as you pictured but with a big Jubilee clip/hose clamp or a string of smaller ones end to end, thus and not tight, with broken leg at the top. Apply the resin and slide the leg in place under the jubilee Tighten the jubilee clamp so it holds the leg in place while adhesive cures. The leg on L/h side of picture is completely unattached from the stove but a tight clamp is holding it, even with the weight of it standing.
Great one pal. Thank you so much, i thought kit E was for the Parasene, bonus for both. Dean, great visual photo for me, thanks. As it happens wor lass come in for a helping hand didnt have a jubillee clip, but my thinking (as ive used this befor) if wor las wasnt here. prep the weld (mix good) apply weld on the stove, but leave areas for small beads of strong super glue. As the super glue dries faster. once deamed the leg isnt going to drop, (a pain with one arm lol) quicky get my clamp on. And let the weld to harden. As the inside temp isnt too good, ill take the stove off the clamp, leaving the other clamp on just incase. get it into descent temp, as im not in a rush longer makes better. Then fingers X'd clean up the weld. Well, As i said i dint need the super glue idea, but in the past that has helped me. Maybe in other eyes not perfect, but if it does the job Inbetween Making Christmas Homebrew beer, my kit from Ross (Fettlebox) for the monitor came. so whilst the Svea leg is drying i've got some questions Ref. the placing the washers on the Monitor. BRI
Right lads n lasses, Onto the monitor. Thanks Ross. No idea this pip (think isnt needed)? Make sure jetbis cleaned. But..... Im happy with No. 1, Number 2 (if not needed) Cany anyone guided me with the washerrs in No.2. sorry i started to get 'Brian Sydrome' (confused.) Off to play with mixing grains & hops. Catch you all later. Bri
Bri, The wide washer is for the tank to riser/lipstick joint.It is lead and you need to remove all trace of the old one before fitting, then it gets fitted gas tight rather than ground down tight. The smaller one and the pip are the NRV, down the end of the pump tube. The lead washer sits between the NRV outer flange and the pump tube end, to provide a leak free joint, the pip gets fitted into the inside of the NRV "shuttle" in front of the spring - there are pictures of NRVs in pieces to show what I am on about!
I would also look to remove the roll of brass gauze from the lipstick tube, open it out and clean it. I recently had one in an old Pri96 which was very carboned - it played merry hell with the flame - gave it a clean up, re-rolled it and fitted it and it ran nice as pie.
Thanks Dean, Kinda happy with the wide washer. As in turn the riser upside down? and clean any debri off. looked inside the NRV once. I'll try my best. is there a way to take old washer n old pip out? I'll remove a clean brass gauze. TBH i havent a clue lol. I'll battle on. Nearly finised brewing so i'll more time lol. Bri
Nah! In the fitting at middle top of tank, snuggled down inside the threads and tight round that little middle upstand. My approach can be a bit "if it aint broke, don't fix it" so if your riser union isn't leaking under pressure without being ground down too tightly, then I might be inclined to leave it alone until it starts to show signs. Likewise the NRV - you would need (to make/buy) a tool for that; if it holds pressure and doesn't cause pump creep or paraffin to well into the tube, why change it?
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! in the middle lol thought as much but couldnt be certain. As far as the NRV and a Brian (TOOL lol) Right i'll sort the things to change over, and get back to yous ASAP. thanks again Dean,where would i be with your help! Bri
Following my advice, probably be at the local casualty dept or burns unit by now! This time next year, we could both be millionaires, Rodney! - I am entitled to use this line as I was born in Peckham!
HA!HA! nice one m8 I best crack on in the morning as my 3 brains cells ive get left is starting to not fuction (like me) ''Ill be reet'' as im from Newcastle. Catch you in the morn, BTW i got the gauze out no prob and is in costic whatsitchops for a lil bit n rinced. Bri
