Discussion in 'Military' started by presscall, Mar 3, 2010.
So what can I do now, as I can't get this ventil ?
I've seen this on ebay, shall I buy it ?
If the price is reasonable, or wait until we locate the non-return valve components of spring, 'pip' cup and 'pip'.
If you or someone can get me the complete Ventil that would be fantastic
The NRV kits are back in stock but are a standard 4.5mm pip.
What the difference ? Does it make a difference ?
I do know the cylinder is a standard NRV size so should take the 4.5mm pip & holder. Just bigger than original & the lead washer is surplus in this application.
do i send the order to you or from the website ?
Many Thanks you two,
ordered and paid.
looking for a Military Lamp (90er jahre) Tilley or a Bialladin......
Hi Mark @Mark Nash , if you want a military lamp from that era your search would be limited to the Vapalux/Bialladin M320 or maybe the slightly older 305. As far as I know, Tilley did not sell any mil spec lamps after the war.
yes bialladin, thought i could get away with a tilley lamp but they are rarer as Bialladin !!
so got the parts but somehow its not right.
the first time i screwed it onto the end, pumped it but no differance, unscrewed it again and the pip was stuck at the end of the valve ?
and it seems to have to much room at the top ?
Hi, I don't understand the orientation of the photos. The pip should be installed so that it faces the base of the pump cylinder, and controls the air flow out of this cylinder.
that is !! where the pip is screws in at the bottom of the pump
Hi @Mark Nash You have the parts in the correct orders so the NRV should work.
Is the pip retained in the brass carrier, or is it loose and sticks to the nozzle on the base of the pump cylinder?
pip is in the brass holder . no it gets stuck in the valve ?
Today full of high hopes , got the service kit , had the jet cleaner wheel re soldered and was good to go.
sadly no pressure , ive been sent 2 differant types of Cups , both seem wrong.
and to top that petrol started dripping out of the jet cleaner wheel ? how do i seal that correctly ? and ive just seen this part that is over, that noone knows where it came from, could it have anything to do with the leek because its missing ?
Last Question. is there anyone that i can send this too that could repair it for me (of course for money) i can repair most things but this is driving me nuts !!!
Hi @Mark Nash you seem to have the pump assembled and it looks like a fairly basic design, similar to that used in the German/Dutch Heinze/Geniol Military stove:
I do not undertand which extra part you are referring to. Is it a spare leather pump bucket shown in the last photo? If so it is a spare and not related to any leak
Where does the jet cleaner leak? These cleaners generally operate through a packing gland containing graphite packing. If you turn the hexagonal nut on the packing gland it should compress the packing surrounding the shaft, stopping any leak. Do not over-tighten as you will stop the shaft turning.
Are you able to take the pump out of the tank? If so you should assemble the pump away from the stove. Immerse the end in a glass of water and pump. You should see if the pump is working as bubbles should appear in the water. You will also test whether the valve seals on the backstoke, as water will be sucked into the pump cylinder if the pip fails to seal.
I do not know anyone who would wish to work on a British Army No.3 stove....
i tried that with the water test, water came in to the pump inbetween the pump handle schaft and the Screw top.
i put brapphite in the thread but it still leaked , can i use another tape like Ptfe or loctite ?
pic 1 and 6 is the new cup but as you see it forms waves and of course cannot make pressure.
No 5 is the first one i bought.
Pic 2 is the 2 together.
Pic 4 is this round part that does not seem to go anywhere ?
Hi, This is a petrol/gasoline stove so DO NOT use it until you are sure that all leaks are cured.
Both the old and new pump leathers look good to me and should seal and pump OK after a soak in oil.
The NRV leaks and you should concentate in getting that fixed.
Graphile tape, or pre-shaped graphite packing is the only approved sealant for control shafts in the service conditions experienced by these stoves.
I do not recognise the extra component shown in photo 4.
I'm willing to offer whatever assistance I can but I suggest it should be by 'Conversation' (private message) or a separate post in the Fettling Forum rather than a series of exchanges in a Stove Reference Gallery entry.
if i start a new post now i will have to repeat the whole thing ?
Oh and sorry for Hijacking your theme