I see that UK seller Juliands is selling burner bell and cast iron burner plate for no 96 type stoves. Anybody here have tested them ? I see he has sold 5 of them. Bjørn
Flame spreader looks a bit brass color... Could it be cast from brass? Price it not too bad, hopefully it works!
Spreader is cast iron like it says - mine is fine. Burner bells are a new thing. Be interested in reports on those.
Hi Richmay - I don't really know. The spreader would work in a 17B bell by the look of it, but my 17B has a captive brass spreader which is unlikely to get separated and lost. If you mean would the 96 bell and spreader fit a 17B that's more complex. The 17B bell has a split so it has some "give" as it mates with the taper of the vapourising tube. A 96 bell has no split - of course you could make one - but I have no idea if the taper angles are even close to one another. My 96 bell is not about to come off so it's difficult to test the mating. The 17B bell comes off easily by comparison because of the split. Maybe someone else here knows. If no luck I can try to split my 96 - but I know from past experience that takes some doing.
@JonD Thanks for your reply, i have decided to buy one and try it, it should be easy enough to cut a slot if required, Cheers
@richmay Do please tell us how it goes. By eyeball, without removing my 96 bell, it looks like you are in with a good chance. The worst that can happen is you need to cut the slot and do a bit of dressing with a fine file to adjust the taper - if it turns out to be necessary. One of my 96s has a slightly wonky bell. For the Ebay price I'm tempted to buy another. Then again that 96 works and it's all original. 96 pot legs from same source at a good price I was very happy with too. If he ever commissions repro 96 lipsticks he will see some sales I reckon. My 17B was unfired when received. I fettled it up (pump seized) and lit it once - hadn't realised it was unfired at that point. The lacquer leaving the brass bell was the first clue! I don't plan to make it do frequent work but it's nice to have.
I don't have many stoves in my collection but what I do have is an Optimus 96 which is identical to a Primus 96 and a Monitor 17b, just tried mine and the burner bells fit each other quite happily.
I received a Juliands burner bell with burner plate this morning. First of all, the quality is excellent and the plate is cast iron. Secondly, I tried the bell on two old Primus 96 stoves and a Monitor 17B and it fitted OK. The designs of the burner bells for the same make of stoves changed slightly over the years so there is no guarantee that it will be a perfect substitute for all 96 or 17B stoves, but the signs are good so far.
This should make a lot of people very happy. Now.... if only he can be persuaded to find a good supplier of lipsticks... As a result of this thread my 1936 with said burner plate has been on the tea duty today. It has been a star performer, except for the pump, which needed far too much working to make pressure. That meant a new pump leather was required and that meant find the sleeve patches used for such work. It turned out a 15mm straight pipe joiner (solder type) and an old bit of brass tube I had kicking around make the prefect outer and inner formers for 96 pump leathers. A 7mm punch is OK for the centre hole. Should these have a washer under the clamping nut? Mine doesn't but it might be an improvement.
Hi, have a look at this old post on how pumps work: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/typical-pump-assembly.14026/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
@kerophile It's a very good idea of yours to repost that thread. I received a very nice classic brassy the other day, and the previous owner had thought the pump was missing a part and had placed three washers between the locking nut and the pump-cup assembly. Needless to say, the pump's efficiency was much reduced. When I first started out fettling classic old stoves, I wondered why the pumps were "loose". It was your post that led me to the path to enlightenment. Cheers Tony
OK, so looks like no washer is correct. The taper seal on the pump rod is working OK. My clamp nut (steel - suspect not original) has burrs which should not be there - easily removed with a stone. Thanks for the links.
If it's any help, I was in contact with Julian a month ago before starting a batch of Lipsticks ourselves, and he tells me they're already scheduled by him in the very near future Cheers