Could the pump rod come disengaged from the check valve? Broken check valve? It should lock when you turn the pump handle clockwise until it stops. If not, try pulling the pump cover off and pulling the pump out. If the rod comes with it, there is trouble or something is amiss. sam
Another thought. There should be a square, brass rod that stays in the pump tube once you pull the pump out... sam
Time to pull the pump out. It may have stripped threads, or misaligned valve needle, or not there at all. If it's not there contact me and i'll send a couple over. If it's stripped threads contact me and i'll send you a new NRV, ewhich will have both the nrv and the valve rod attached. lance
Glad my comments alerted you to a symptom of something not being quite right with the stove check valve/air stem, Jim. Just discovered your post some hours after you've posted it, but it's great that CCS stalwarts have stepped in with crucial advice and support already. John
Lance, that's very decent of you. I haven't had a chance to pull it out and examine it, but will do so soonest. Thanks, HJ
I took out my Coleman 502, manufactured 11/77. Let's have a look at her, shall we? I notice that the pump rod doesn't go all the way in. That's normal, isn't it? Nothing obviously wrong with the pump cup and rod. Nothing obviously wrong with the "guide rod." Here's where we reach the limits of my fettling (ahem) knowledge. I don't really know how to disassemble the pump further. However, when I re-assembled everything, I note that the rod does now lock into place if I rotate it to the right and that air does not seem to feed into the tank when pumped when the pump rod is in the "locked" position. I think my stove is OK even though my knowledge of the pump's inner workings is very limited. I'll bring along my 502 to CA SG #3 and maybe people there can lend me their eyes for a bit for a double check. HJ
Hi Jim, If you turn the rod counter clock-wise it will come out of the check valve. You can look at and nothing bad will happen. If you are really brave, the check valve will come out with either a large screw driver or the special check valve removal tool. Usually, you don't have to do this. A lot of times you can just dump fluids down there to lubricate the valve. It sounds like yours is operating properly. These pumps are usually quite tough. You may want to oil the pump cup, though. What usually goes bad is the filler cap gasket. So even if you pump the tank up, the pressure goes right out the filler cap. Easily repaired though. I'm sure there will be plenty of people that will be able to help you at the gathering if you don't want to venture down the rabbit hole. sam
Hi, Sam, The stove is holding pressure fine, so I think the gasket on the filler cap is OK. I may have to try rotating the rod to the left just to see what happens. Great way to learn, eh? Thanks for the tips, HJ
Left rotation of the pump rod will open the NRV to allow air to enter the fount. Coleman recommends two (2) complete turns. I normally only use one and sometimes not a full one. it really doesn't matter so long as you open it more than one half (1/2) turn. Another thought is that then square crimp on the pump shaft (the part with the aluminium head) might be futz up. I have seen this on really old equipment when the person using the stove or lanter gets over zelious and over tightens the valve. Just another thought as to why you had a problem to start. lance
I have seen the MSR lookalike called: Camping Stove: Gasoline/Gas Multi Stove S-9. Also a Coleman knock-off TK111 that has a roarer rather than the silent burner. The first stove is £36 + £1.00 postage, which made me suspect a mistake. I didn't want to BIN and get a surprise on the real shipping cost. I wondered about the ability of this stove to run on paraffin cleanly & without clogging. Of course the TK111 is white gas only. I am seeking the opinion of the original poster of this thread on the TK111. I want to know about the S9: What did yours list at & what was the real shipping charge. I don't care if it comes on a slow boat.
I will let you know about my experiences, but I have done the evil deed & ordered one of the S9 MSR clones. I did seek the opinion of the original poster in this thread on the Coleman clone at first, but they endorsed the S9 as being better. Having bought two of those they would not have done so if they were rubbish.
I've got the S9 as well as the TK111. I like both. The S9 had a faulty pump and a new one was sent (I suspect it is just a faulty washer but I have never stripped it down) and now a washer has gone on the fuel line which I replaced without bother. The S9 is a strong performer and fits in a Trangia with the Trangia adapter.
I was curious about whether the S9 could be fitted inside a Trangia, so I too have bought a Trangia adapter. If it does a good job I might keep it for the Trangia and bin the legs. It'd be a good excuse to buy something else... A Bernie Dawg cap would turn my Chinese Lion into a pussycat. However they do go for eye-watering prices, which is a disincentive. Ninety quid would buy a lot of Panel Wipe and LPG...... Has anyone got one of the Whisperlite clones? How quiet are they & how wind resistant? People around here do like to tinker & I am just as guilty. Those who sell the S9 and others as capable of using paraffin or even diesel should behold the S9 fire-balling when attempting to use paraffin. The spare & slightly smaller jet must be for use with automotive gasoline. The only white gas stove I ever ran on car petrol was a Optimus 8R. The flames had yellow tips, suggesting that stove was running somewhat rich. If the jet marked 35 is for white gas & LPG, then maybe the 30 jet they give you is for petroleum intended for your car or motorbike? In my experience of the 8R it smelt strongly, running on unleaded, like car exhaust fumes do. We know it is not a good idea for long-term health of the stove or the stove user, however...... I am not suggesting anyone uses unleaded petrol rather than Panel Wipe/Aspen 4T or Coleman Fuel. Just trying to understand the reason why this jet marked 30 is included with my S9 stove.
Addendum to my last post about the use of unleaded with the 30 jet: Unleaded burns fine with the 35 jet, just as white gas does. After I had satisfied my curiosity I emptied the bottle back into my bike tank. What it runs on now is mostly white gas with some paraffin, not more than about a quarter for sure. Maybe somewhat less. One day I will prepare a accurate mixture to see how far I can push things and still get a clean burn. Might need to add some sort of non-combustible wick to give a longer priming burn. The S9 does not run on pure paraffin. Unless you like fireballs and singed extremities the best we can hope for is a minority proportion in a bottle of white gas to cut running costs a little. Any idea of the proportion? The scientific way of doing it'd be with a measure of some sort so the proportion of paraffin in the mix is always the same.
