Chugging SVEA 123R

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Optimist, Oct 27, 2007.

  1. Optimist

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    Hello all - new to this forum. I have just bought a new SVEA 123R and it primes and runs fine with a nice blue flame on Coleman, the only problem is that it "chugs" most of the time until it gets really warm - it sounds like a miniature steam train rather than a helicopter (well, maybe like a Huey...)

    Is this normal or are I doing something wrong ?

    Thanks
     
  2. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    Hi Optomist !!
    Welcome to the Forum !!! :D
    The 'Chugging' is absolutely normal, and the 123R is a first rate little 'Back-packing' stove !!!
    If you wish to overhaul the 123, here's an useful link...
    It's for an 8R, but most of the parts are shared with the 123, and its all good info.!
    http://
     
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  3. 111T

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    i don't think you did anything wrong. I have found that the output of the svea grows until it's warmed up. The best way I've found to prime the stove is using priming paste. In my experience the flame is much stronger right away with the paste. I've used Coglans as well as the mautz paste. Others here have noted an optimus paste, as being better, but I don't know where to find it in my neck of the woods. You could always double prime too. (with white gas twice)

    Welcome aboard.
     
  4. nzmike

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    Welcome aboard the ship of pyros, Optimist! Now that you know about this site your life is forever changed. For better or worse I'll leave up to you to decide.....

    An accurate description of the noise a 123(R) makes has been hotly contended here, they have been liked to helicopters, a finger nail across corrugated cardboard etc etc. If I had to guess I would say you may be opening the valve a bit far when it hasnt quite reached operating temp yet, try having the valve open just enough to support an active (mostly blue) flame for the 1st minute or so. Mine makes chains of mini fireballs if I give it too much gas when it hasnt warmed up enough. They heat up quickly enough tho. You might want to experiment with pre-heating techniques to find one that works best for you, there are half a dozen or more ways of doing it. I'm a fan of turning the stove upside down, pouring a spoon full of gas into the hollow then cooking off. When it's burnt out turn the stove right side up and crack the valve, gas will fairly gush out.

    If I know this place you'll get a string of replies, all claiming to be the best option :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: It's up to you the decipher the mad rants from the useful info, a knack I still dont quite have....
     
  5. Optimist

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    Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get some paste and keeping it turned down until warmed up properly. Great forum !
     
  6. 111T

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    great! A 123 is a fun stove to play with and use!
     
  7. 111T

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  8. shampine

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    Looks great Paul :D
    Thanks,
    Shampine
     
  9. bark2much

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    Try this:

    |imgRemoved|

    Get a length of wood stove seal (it's fiberglass rope), and tie the ends together around the burner stem. Soak it with alcohol, and light. Chugging will be a thing of the past. Visit any hardware store, and you can find about six feet of it in various thicknesses and colors.

    123 tends to chug, when priming was not hot enough, or when the fuel tank is full--leaving little room for the air to expand and provide steady pressure necessary to squeeze the fuel through the orifice.
     
  10. TrainManny

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    Hi Optimist,

    Welcome to CCS, the friendliest site on the World Wide Web. My 123R tends to pulse or chug a bit until it gets warmed up. They say every one of these burners have their own personality. If you get the "Stove Collecting Bug" you'll find this out for yourself.

    I have the same GSI Double Boiler that Paul uses. It's a very versatile piece of kit. If you count ounces, you will see it is only slightly heavier then its titanium counterparts. Of course you will soon want to get a hold of a Sigg Cook Set to compliment your stove. I'm still searching.:cry: If funds are tight check out this simple set.

    Open Country Sierra? 5-Piece Non-Stick Backpacking Set

    The most important thing is to get out there and use that stove.

    Best Wishes,

    Manny :D
     
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  11. bark2much

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    That's nice set. Economically priced and very versatile. One caution: the nonstick is fairly slippery. It slides off the pot support quite easily. I have one with bail wire, and it can get slicker, when it gets hot.
     
  12. Rich_S

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    This is definitely true. Mine tends to chug/pulse if I don't get it good and hot when I prime it, but the chugging disappears after the stove fully heats up in a few minutes.

    My experience will filling a stove all the way up is the opposite - you prime it and then when you open the valve your get a 3 foot high column of yellow flame shooting out the top of the burner for a minute or so. I think this is why the label says to fill it only 2/3 full. A nearly emptu stove, on the other hand, can be very difficult to light but once it gets going it runs fine (don't burn it all the way dry though).
     
  13. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    If slippery pots are a problem, you can wrap the pot rests with stainless wire... It roughs up the rests, gives the pot something to grip to. Stainless because it's, well, stainless!
    Safety wire is good...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire
     
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  14. bark2much

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    It usually is the result of underpriming that the stove shoots out the fireball three feet up (Unless you are quick, you loose your eyebrows and some of your front hair...). The burner stem and bell were not hot enough to vaporize the fuel, the escaping gas will stay liquid and present you with the fireworks. The liquid form of fuel came out, because tthe fuel tank was heated enough to get the fuel inside expand and exert pressure.

    Anyway, When the tank is full, it takes more heat to warm up the fuel to expand and exert pressure. With less fuel, it is easy to heat the air mass trapped inside, and air expands more readily, and a lot more pressure is added to the fuel. There will be less effect of chugging. Once the liquid fuel goes up the stem, it will vaporize, and blue flame will show.

    With the added wick around the burner stem, it hold more priming fuel, and the burner and tank get plenty of heat to pressurize and vaporize the fuel, and you get a strong output, the moment you open up the spindle.

    IF you put too much priming fuel on the wick, the fuel inside the tank tends to boil, and creates too much pressure. The flame becomes straight and long, and you can hear the fierce sound of the jet engine. If the condition gets too warm, the pressure relief valve on the fuel cap will (hopefully) open.