Coleman 533 Dual Fuel - leak, issues with pump

Thanks a lot guys, I changed the fuel level and it seems to be a lot better now.

Here's my brand new video:


I think the only way to fix is to repair this fuel lever, whenever I slightly turn it to the off position, the flame fades away. I didn't turn the valve to the "high/light" position because the last time I had done it, the flame appeared below the burner. Maybe should I check this out?

 

@JonD . I failed to mention the Schrader valve is the same as what is in a bicycle tube or car tire.

 

Have you pumped it up and waited to see if it leaks air or fuel?

 

Hello Michal - it still very yellow and sooty isn't it?
I'm glad reducing the fuel level has made some improvement.

To be honest I don't see how the fuel lever can be responsible for it burning like that.

One of the things about a 533, some say, it's either on or off and no in-between.
It's not the fuel lever that controls the flame size it's the jet hole diameter. Once the generator is properly hot it's how much vapour can escape the jet not what liquid fuel can pass the fuel lever.

That looks very overfuelled. If you have the fuel lever only just open or else you get massive flames I'm thinking it's the jet even though your inspection made you think it's OK. Some generators (older ones) have a replaceable jet. Later ones you must change the whole generator, cost reduction to the producer, cost increase to the user!

How long had it been running when you took the video? If not very long (just a few minutes) and the whole burner was not really hot then it could still be extra fuel from the wet wadding under the burner.

I would be interested to see how it goes if you leave it to run at least 15 minutes. If that was taken after such a long time then it really is delivering too much fuel. Otherwise your 95 Gas might not be what you think it is. Is it old Gas? The modern stuff does not store well - a few months is enough that it goes off.

That's another reason to run white gas/panel wipe/aspen/coleman fuel. It does not go off for years.

Thanks @HercL4D2 - I thought it was

 

Hmm..I made the video just after I lighted my stove, so It had been running like for 2 mins. I'll let it burn for 15 minutes and then I'll post some pics or video.

 

I had a look at my 533 today. It started easily with the lever in low. After a good warmup I don't see any difference moving the lever between high and low so JonD's statement is very accurate. Moving the lever a bit lower than the low position immediately starts shutting off the stove.
Both Herc and JonD have more experience than I do repairing these so I'd follow their advice.
The troubleshooting section of the instructions say that a persistent high yellow flame is a fuel delivery system failure and they recommend checking the pump assembly. Is the pump working as it should now that the tank is not over fueled?

 

The problem has been solved. You were right about the fuel, I replaced the old fuel with something like extraction naphtha (I don't if it's exactly it, cause i didn't find any good translation). Thanks for your help and advices.

 

@Michał I would like to say your last video is nice. It sounds just like a F-16 rolling down a taxiway for take off. Next is I noticed the wrong flame pattern. This stove is specific as to what fuel to use. It is either Coleman camp fuel or Unleaded gasoline for Automobiles sold in the USA. Your 95 octane fuel you are using may not be the same.

Do this, remove the fuel from the stove add 4 ounces of alcohol and rinse the tank out. Drain all the alcohol out and wick the remaining fluid with a cloth. Go get a bottle of Coleman fuel and add 1 cup to the stove. Open the pump 1 full turn to the left and add 25 strokes, close the pump valve by turning to the right. Turn the red knob fully to the up position and light the stove. Once the stove is lit open the pump and apply another 25 strokes then close the valve. You should now see a blue flame. Now start to lower the red lever to an even flame setting..

If this does not work you have a bigger problem. This multi-fuel appliance may be fueled by
Coleman® Liquid Fuel or unleaded gasoline. Never use kerosene or leaded automotive fuel.


Trying to repair the fuel lever is not the problem. The fuel lever is just a rod that moves another rod inside the brass valve. There are no o-rings or gaskets inside the valve to worry about that would cause this problem. What that lever does is depress the pin of the Schrader valve inside the F/A tube that is screwed into the brass valve inside the tank.. You can tell easily if the Schrader valve is leaking by loosening the nut above the valve on the generator and pumping the tank and observe if there is a fuel leak. If that is the case then you will need to dissemble the stove and remove the valve. Then remove the F/A tube from the valve and replace the Schrader valve.

If the F/A tube has debris inside it there may be a blockage of the air feed hole at the top of the F/A tube that will require replacement. Look at the images I gave you in my earlier post so you can see the F/A tube. I also gave you The PDF file for the owners manual. There is also the part number for the Valve with F/A tube and the Generator.

 

Looks like good progress.
Whatever that "Breaking bad" fuel of yours is, it sounds like what you need.
I don't use any special procedure to light mine and it goes like a rocket.

First I pump it until there is some resistance back from the pump rod, your thumb just bends on the down stroke. You could go on but that would become a big effort.

Fully open the valve and there is a nice hiss. A small fog of vapour can be seen over the burner. Light that but watch out for your arm hairs. Now it burns quite yellow for a while but the flame roots are blue.
Slowly the yellow flame tips start to fade. Now when you pump again it has a soft feeling, get it back to the hard pumping effort it was before. Eventually it becomes all blue and wonderful and it will go on for hours with just the odd stroke or two of the pump.

If you have had some bad fuel in yours - just burn it. Then burn it some more - make more tea.
The longer it goes the better it will get as the crud evaporates.

Someday when it gets very old and the proper blue just won't come it could be the O ring trouble. Hopefully that will be a long time yet.

By the way, once it is really hot and burning blue you can turn it down with the fuel valve.
It will burn well at a whisper in still air ( but not a wind - that messes things up). It's just that as the valve and the rest of the works cool down you have to adjust the fuel lever to keep it <in the zone>.

These stoves are IMHO amazing - but a bit misunderstood. My first was new in 1995 and it was just great - and now it is again. Pity the red tit on my fuel lever is melted - that was from it's days of misbehaviour, flooding and bad burning. It's history now and just how it is.

<< It's that one. Mine! Now my avatar. Has some stories behind it.

PS. @Ray123 is absolutely right that that the fuel lever has nothing to service except if fuel leaks out of it. There are O rings there but the real fuel control work is done by the schrader valve at the top of the Fuel/Air (F/A) tube. If it drips fuel from the valve go in there and change the O rings. If it won't shut off it's the schrader valve underneath.

Best of luck.

 

Credit where credit is due. @HercL4D2 added this helpful info to the post and not me. My 533 was new when purchased 7 years ago and I've never needed to take it to bits. Then I joined CCS and the brassies began multiplying and the 533 didn't get much use until I fired it up today.

 

my mistake