Hi all. Long time lurker of info on your forum but finally have a question myself. Have a Coleman 533 sportster stove, bought because of constant issues with gas canister stoves in cold temperatures and because it was meant to last a lifetime and always have parts available. Had an issue a while back where the cleaning wire through the generator pulled out of the little elbow that goes onto the throttle lever. When I went to purchase another generator I was told they're no longer available through Coleman Australia. Not happy Jan. Was directed to a few places overseas, and the eventual price was as much as I paid for the whole stove brand new about 4 years previous, so that idea went into the bin. If you can't tell I'm a little bitter about this. No problems, I'm a resourceful tinker (or fettler, as I leaned on this forum) and will just repair this one as I was going to anyway for a spare. Used some stainless wire trace of the right diameter (0.30mm from memory). Issue I have is with the correct length. I'm having trouble simmering on the stove now, it was much easier before I repaired it. I can't quite work out if the wire is meant to do any of the throttling of the stove, or if it's meant to just pull completely out of the way and all throttling is done by the valve. Can anyone tell me how far the end of the wire is meant to stick out past the jet with the valve in the closed/off position? Would love to have a spare generator regardless, but I'm not paying over $100au for one. Might look into making one with a removable jet, but that can come later. Anyways, appreciate any info you learned stove fanatics might be able to offer me. Thanks Stu
Welcome to CCS, @disco stu. When I get a chance I’ll look in my shed and see what Coleman 533 stuff is there. Give me a day or two. Cheers Tony
The wire sticks out the jet, ‘just’ when in simmer cleaner mode. It simmers by restricting the fuel flow. It retracts when in the burn mode. Tapering the point gives you slightly more control sort of but it more fragile.
Thanks Bruce. I'll check where mine sits and compare to this. Funny, I did try the idea of tapering the end of the wire when I made it up hoping to improve things and it's now worse. Didn't want to go stuffing around too much though seeing it is working though, and I have a habit of putting way more effort into things than they are worth (while completely neglecting other things!)
Just had a play with this. With the stove off the wire was out at the very end of the jet (jet is in a recess, the hole is at the bottom of a V and the wire was in line with the tops). I trimmed what I thought was only halfway down the recess, and now it's barely sticking out with lever at off position. Just tried running it and there is very little control at lower power, so looks like I'll have to make up another cleaning wire about a mm longer than it is currently
With the lever at the off position the wire is retracted as afar as possible. When you open the control knob the wire is pushed forward. In the far end you get to go over the little ridge to the clean the jet. My wire sticks out hmmm maybe half a mm. It is rusted tapered. I think the simmer should be just before that where the wire chokes the jet. My peak 1 worked on unleaded 91 the other day as good as gold. It has the kero tube in it and a something or other wire in it. It’s a bit hard to tell cos the knobs all melted burnt, The rest is rusty. The pump and fuel cap work. Might end up in the rusty but running thread. Ha. Hope it helps Bruce.
Well I thought you had a peak one. Nahh your stove is different as in the needle sticks out when off. So just after the lever opens the flow control valve the wire should be just proud of the nipple. Mine is boil /cooking -simmer No adjustment beside what you can eat out by just getting the wire poking in the nipple enough to restrict it a bit.
Thanks Bruce. I'll try working it around when the lever opens the valve. Going to be trial and error I guess. Just trying to work out some idea to attach the wire to the lever with what I have here, not waiting for some brass tube to get posted. I was thinking the wire wrapped around some 1.5mm rod with a groove on it, but had the idea last night in bed of tapping threads and just using a screw into the lever. Only if I can find a screw with small enough head. Just where my thought process went
Some ballpoint pens have brass/ aluminium tubing. Probably some tubing off an old thermostat be just about right. Can’t remember what I used.
Couldn't find anything of the right dimensions laying around here, but this was my solution. Hopefully this helps someone else who might have to make new cleaning wire. 1.6mm nail. Used the drill and a file to put the groove in there to hold the wire in place. Wrapped around twice so it wouldn't pop off. Ended up using much shorter twist length, only needed 2 wraps of twist. I also had to put a kink in the wire so it pushed the little piece into the valve, (up in the photo) otherwise it would pull it out shortly and jam when trying to close of the valve/when it moved up. If you make this, the way to trim the wire close is by putting a right angle bend on the end of the wire tag, then use this as a little handle and wind wind wind until it breaks, and it will leave no tag. About 2-2.5mm sticking out with the valve closed seems to work well. I feel I've still got less control than with the factory wire, but it's better than before and I've definitely got a simmer and high, and a little in between with some fiddling. Appreciate your info and advice Bruce
I'm still dirty they've made the parts so hard to get though! I bought it on the long standing good rep of the Coleman's and the fact that parts were still available for long discontinued models are reasonable prices so would be able to keep this going long term. I'm sure I'll find a way to make whatever is needed, but I'm just a little bitter. It does get some questions when I fire it up when away with the hunting club, given the large yellow flame. I think they're all using propane given the cold temps, but I find that a fair bit of hassle getting refills etc compared to just using unleaded or even distilling unleaded when I want clean stuff for it
Sounds as if you need a different stove. Have you considered a 123r, the Swedish hand grenade? A 1 pint brassy? Lots of options. You can get Coleman parts if you are in the USA. I believe every home has a few getting patina on them in the back shed. Lots of options in all flavours out there.
I am happy with this. It more than solved my original issue of using butane when out west hunting in winter where it can be down to -10c. Just fire this up, let the yellow flame settle and it's good to go. Its got enough adjustment for low and high temp stuff. Especially compared to butane where in winter in the snowies it's only very low temp I am intrigued by those 123 stoves, but the idea of tank getting hot makes me a little nervous... As does the hand grenade name you gave it! What's the 1 point brassy? I can get the parts for the 533, but the prices have gone up exponentially from where they were when I bought the stove. To replace the generator the eventual price after conversion and shipping from the US was the same as I paid for this whole stove brand new. I spoke to someone at Coleman Australia and also USA I think, with my eventual response being that I may as well just be buying Chinese made stoves on AliExpress given the price of parts now for Coleman. It feels like they're going from quality long lasting products to just generic cheaper stuff on all their stuff
My local camping store when we had one besides bc f’ing had some old stove stuff. All the small places seem to get shoved aside. The sea 123 and r model (shellite)are pretty bomb proof. Just need a oring Seal for the tank filler. And maybe some mop cotton bits for the wick one day. The tank gets hot because it is a feed back stove. I’ve used it in the tropics for years and if you don’t smother it with a tight windscreen and put huge pots on them they go well. Just dip the base in a tray of water to keep it docile if needs be. For simple meal prep and a simple fry up I don’t if you need even worry. The 99’s and8’rs tank can get a lot hotter with a frypan on them. The 210primus stove in a tin (kerosene)or equivalent. Fired up a couple today, starting to sort out some stuff. I have a few I’m sorting out. Mine are mostly user stoves though. These have been sitting around for 10 years maybe. I need some new tank seals and stuff. Marine wind warning today hence the windshield And it even stopped raining
Dead still here, which is annoying in winter as the clothes don't dry on the line for weeks sometimes. No wind, no sun, cold and very heavy dew in our little micro climate in winter. 1km away it can be 10 deg warmer at times. Very weird. But the ground is dry in the backyard so I might hang the washing out... Exciting stuff These stoves intrigue me big time. It was only once I got this 533 that I realised this style of stove was a thing and I started to get really intrigued in them. I got very interested in getting some other options but I really want to avoid collecting them as I've got too much stuff as it is. I would like some more options to use like yourself though. I can't believe that they're not overly poplar with the general camper out there. Butane is valid for a warmer weather camper, but lpg is such a pain having to go and get refills and the larger cylinders. The liquid fueled stoves aren't that much more difficult to use and they have a lot of benefits, plus cheap to run (assuming you're not buying shellite at Bunnings for $15/L or so) I'll keep an eye out for some other options to play with. I thought maybe 123r with a pump, which I've seen mention of
