Thank you. It is just the Canadian models that had the locking pump I think. But not all Canadian stoves iirc. Cheers, Jeff
Jeff's example of the 111 is exactly the right stove to make that adaptation to, but only in the 111B to put right the fundamental flaw in that stove of having kero pump and non-return valve technology in a petrol (ok, white gas) fuelled stove. Enders and M1950 military stoves could benefit too. Other than that example in the Optimus 111 line-up, I can't honestly see the point of fitting a Coleman check valve to a kero stove. John
One point that I see in having the locking check valve is not having to replace the pip in the NRV ever again. Even if it leaks a little, you can loosen the ball with a little solvent and you are back in business again OR you can keep pumping and quickly lock the valve until you can perform the required maintenance like I've done many times on my Colemans. No pressure lost or fuel spillage. I have a Solus with the locking check valve. I believe it has the best of both worlds - the brassie look with a really nice and good working pump and valve system. I knew sooner or later someone would come up with the idea and an implementation of a Coleman check valve in an NRV-type stove. It was just a matter of 'when' it would rear its head. Been thinking about doing this myself for quite a long time, especially on the 111B/M1950 stoves. Great topic Jeff! sam
Morning, Guys, BernieDawg, your idea is a very interesting one, and well worth further consideration and testing, me thinks! I, for one, would be interested in applying that part of Coleman technology to a few stoves that use the regular rubber NRV. As Presscall so wisely mentioned, doing this for specific stoves would be a boon for safety when burning petrol fuels. I can even see the Coleman check ball being a good thing for the 111T, too, as it has the capability to burn Coleman fuel, and better safe, than sorry. Now, that having been said, at least to me, part of the charm of using brass stoves is in fettling them into safe working condition. Working on the NRV is fun (MOST of the time!! ), and part and parcel to being a Stovie!! In any case, I do see much value in having this tech/swap available for those that wish to use it. It's a wonderful innovation, and Coleman was brilliant to have used it in their stoves and lanterns!! I look forward to seeing where this goes, and what develops from this outstanding thread!! Well done, Gentlemen!! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Thanks for the thoughts on this, guys. Jeff, your pump adaptation looks great. Bravo! Since we're doing "true confessions" here are some pictures of the Coleman conversion pump I've been prototyping for a British military #12 that I'm working on for BigBTU as time allows. BigBTU's pump was quite damaged and I was only able to salvage the pump cap and the threaded pump-to-tank attachment collar. All the rest of the parts in these photos are shop made (except for the Coleman valve, the Sefa leather, pump shaft spring and the circlip). The hole through the pump cup retainer is oversize and the pump cup assembly is free to slide about 3mm between the circlip and the shaft-mounted collar. On the drawstroke, the air moves past the collar, between the shaft and pump cup assembly and past the circlip. On the pushstroke, the pump cup assembly seals against the collar. Or, that's my theory anyway. This is the second version. It's working pretty well, but I may try to do up a third version yet to see if I can't squeak out a bit more performance. Prototyping is really slow work for me as I'm not a fast thinker and more of a try-it-and-see kinda guy. I hope that no one is too offended by the conversion. When I finally have it all worked out I'll do a post on the rebuilding of this stove which has multiple issues of interest. Baby steps! What do you fellers think about converting an Optimus 22 or 22B to Coleman valving? Is that acceptable? Cheers, Gary
Howdy, Gary, I think your work on this, like most of the other neat things you undertake, is outstanding! By the way, I hope you have not misunderstood my comments about this conversion, as I believe it is a huge step forward, and for many reasons. Regarding the 22, or 22B, I think that the B model, of course, would benefit most from the conversion to a check-ball NRV setup, but that the 22 would be fine, too. Overall, it's just a better, and far more fool-proof, setup than the old fashions NRV we all know, and (mostly) love. So, full steam ahead, Dawg, and let's see where this takes you, my Friend!! 8) By the way, Sweet Bride and I are REALLY looking forward to the OSG, and can hardly wait to be up there with you and our other CCS Buds and Budettes!!! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Hey Gary, am with you on this. Looking at the pictures, seems the only difference would be seeing a hole in the pump end so looks like your going in the right direction. I have had no NRV that has failed or requiring repair but if I did have one, I too would have gone that direction as a last recourse to finding a used OEM. Well, if you need any suggestions, please holler as a lot of members may have great ideas on how to improve the design. Ron
Thanks John. There are two great reasons to do this to the stove. The safety aspect as you said. But also the field reliably. I have never had a Coleman stove with this style of pump fail on me in the field. That said the later Optimus 111T with the multi-tool/control knob would allow one to easily service the NRV. Another reason I choose the Optimus 111 is that the modification would be done to the tank and burners could be changed out easily. The 111B is the best fit but the 111T is even better I believe. A relible pump in a powerful, simmering able, multi-fuel stove in a metal case. Whats not to love? Cheers, Jeff
Great work on the pump Gary!!!! What are you doing about the chamber and air tube after the check valve? ATB, Jeff
