Thanks - how much is it worth? Not for sale just yet...I'd still like to get it working just to prove I can. Here are a few pics of the pump end of the tank. Funny about the comments regarding the Model 1 v Model 2. My grandad (and dad) lived in Wichita (Coleman's home). Maybe this was a trial model or reject that they bought directly from the factory or maybe grandpa worked there...he was sort of an itinerant carpenter/jack of all trades guy. Oh, and what were the little right angle wire things behind the burners that would fold out on each side? "Resistance is essential"
Like Keith mentioned, that screw is opened a little bit to allow air to be pumped into the tank, then what I do is while holding the pump shaft in on the last stroke, quickly close that screw. Don't know why the screw has a spring on it. The wires engage the wings(windscreen) to hold them in position. Sort of. Pump cup looks great, massage some oil of whatever you have into it. I find olive oil gums up after a bit. Duane
That is the early pump style. Still intrigued by the latch things on your, never seen that before.. here is a pic of my #1,
And my #2. On my #2, those funny folding latch things on yours have become the support for the oven if you fold it back, I suspect they would do the same on yours. You can see the #1 has a small latch in the center, the #2 uses the strap legs to close every thing up.
Looked in the reference gallery and found one with your folding latches and #1 legs Early Coleman No. 2 - Curious Case Latches
Wow. Thanks for that thread. Sorry he is no longer with us. That looks nearly exactly like mine. So I'm soaking my pump leather and I used some compressed air to charge the tank and got a nice hiss from the supply tube where it meets the generator so it appears the tank is going to be good. Now, the generator. I tried to blow some air through that but didn't get anything. It appears there's "stuff" in the generator so maybe it won't allow compressed air through it. Is there anything I should be doing to service the generator? Pricker wire, genny tip??? This is fun.
Be careful taking the genny apart, especially the rod that is connected to the valve knob as the pricker wire on the far end may be brittle and can get bent, then easily broken off when straightening. Take your time, the rods I believe it may contain will need to be cleaned up with sandpaper and wiped clean, if a spring, clean parts best you can. The stove referenced is the one I wanted, but may not be able to get. Duane
Just teeny hole on end of generator, don't expect much air to flow thru generator. The generator will clean it's jet every time you close and open it. Personally I would see if fuel will flow thru before I took it apart. This is 100 year old stuff and is hard to replace if damaged. If you like taking things apart pull off the end of generator with tiny hole, there is a fine wire in there to clean the hole so be aware of that. You will see 7 steel rods surrounding a center shaft that is connected to the keyed knob.
Here are two pics of the generator from both ends. What am I looking at? I thought it was supposed to be a spring or rods. This doesn't look like either. I don't see a tiny hole on the far end.
Where the fuel line goes in...the second picture.....that is a wad of mesh to stop any debris from getting further. The first pic, I can kinda see it.....the little needle on end of shaft is in the hole...with the valve closed you wont be able to see the hole, cause the needle is pushing through it. If you want, try opening the valve, and maybe cleaning that off with carb cleaner just so you can see better. If you take that nut off the end (picture one) be aware that the actual jet is separate from the nut and will try it's darndest to disappear into thin air. And under that will be the 7 rods.
This might help. The rods are in there surrounding the shaft with the little pin sticking out. They run the length of the generator. The nut usually come off without much fuss.
-majicwrench- More pictures...more questions. The first picture is the generator with everything I could remove. The second is what confuses me. It has a pinpoint coming out and is rust colored. I think the needle thing should go in and out when I turn the valve. (it doesn't). When I remove the valve end it looks like it should go over the central part. Is there anything that attaches the valve to the central rod with the sharp end? - You can see the central rod in the third picture. Should the rusty thing come out? Is it threaded or a press fit. Should I stick the whole thing in the electrolysis tub? The threaded piece at the far end does not have a tiny little brass hole like yours did. If you get bored with this let me know and I'll go away.
In my third picture, the little nubbin/jet on the right, that is still in your generator tube. It just fits in, not pressed, but time and carbon could make it stuck . Grab it with a pair of plier (padded with leather if you got some) bet it pops right out. Heat wouldn't hurt either. The long shaft of the generator is still in there too, it threads into the valve. It too may be stuck with carbon and time. Again, heat is your friend if everything is stuck. Nope, questions are fun, I love old stoves and love to pretend like I know what I'm talking about. So far Duane and I have you fooled Oh, and THANK YOU for asking questions and being careful. We all want to cry every time we see pictures of thing, broken, damaged things, irreplaceable things, destroyed because people got in a hurry.
Are the "guts" of the generator steel or brass? I think I'm seeing rust at the tip. Do I want to take the stuff out and try to clean it? Also, you mentioned that the valve is threaded to the long shaft of the generator, right? So my picture #3 has threads and the little tube thing on the valve also has threads? The long shaft has the pointy end, right?
The 7 rods in there are steel. The pointy needle thing is steel (I think). You're there now, pull it apart and clean it up. Rod that has the pointy thing in it's end is brass (I think) Valve (that you put key on) pic 1, should have threads inside that female hole on end. You may be able to thread that back on the long shaft (which has pointy thing on end) and pull shaft and pointy thing out. IN a perfect world it would just pull out easily. Be nice, and get it hot if stuck. Take it apart and it will all make sense. Wouldn't surprise me if pointy thing is somewhat stuck in jet, so be careful and use a good dose of heat. It's a stove, you can get things hot.
Penetrating oil helps. Kano Kroil ot 50/50 ATF/ACETONE. Patience is a well used tool in the Fettler toolbox.
Questions of the day... So with a combination of penetrating oil, electrolysis, and heat the valve turns nicely and the pointy thing (is that the pricker?) goes in and out as I expect it should. However the rods do not seem to move and I can't actually pull the pointy rod out of the middle of them. Should I be concerned about removing and cleaning the rods and if they do come out, which end would they come out of? Does this question make sense?? The valve stem turns and moves the central rod but in my head I don't understand why. Why, if the valve is threaded onto the central rod, doesn't it just unscrew when you turn it counter clockwise? I've tried to pull out the central rod after threading the female end with the 7/16 nut on it, but I'm not inclined to get too aggressive. Thanks.
