I have a brown Peak 1 Model 400 that has been stored in its Peak 1 metal stove pot and lid since the early 1980's. I used it extensively (carried it all the way on the AT in 1984) and used it during weekends through the mid 1990's. I now want to use it again. It's got a little dent on a bottom edge where the silver and red directions label is, along with a little rust there. I fired it up with its original Coleman fuel in it, which may date to the early 2000's (may have used it a time or two when we lost power in the winter to feed the family). When it lit, the on/off valve was stiff and the flame regulator was stiff, but both loosened up. The flame cleared the air and burned cleanly. I turned it off after 5 minutes or so. Because it is so old, I worry about the seals on those two valves. Should I be worried? I read somewhere I could put some lithium grease on or around them? I oiled the plunger and it works fine. I just don't want a flame-up disaster in my future...but this stove has so much history with me, I don't want to part with it. Any suggestions?
45 years old, it is maybe time to go all around and changed all seals plus a clean-up. After that no surprise when you need it.
Welcome Tom! You have found a home of kindred spirits. Or at least a bunch of older folks enjoying the high tech gear from our youth. And congrats on being an AT Alum from '84! First the bad news. The stove's generator, Coleman part number 400-5891, is a limiting factor. Ditto all other Coleman 400's, 576's, and similar that use the "black lever" generator. These generators are rare as Hen's Teeth. Sell for around $100 when they do appear. Search this site for many discussions regarding the 400-5891 generator scarcity. So think of your stove like a classic car. It's old. Parts are hard or impossible to get. But it has significant nostalgic value to you. Try these options; 1. Do nothing. Run your stove as-is. You already know how to pressure test the seals, adjust packing, etc. So enjoy using your stove at home, or camping with a backup stove available. Share your trail stories with family and friends. Cook your favorite trail meals for them. 2. Invest time and money in a full disassemble-clean-rebuild. Replace filler cap seal. Remove and clean fuel/air tube. Replace the Schrader valve (I think the 400 has one?), or replace the entire fuel/air tube assembly with new. Check burner bowl pads and repair as necessary. Lots of info on this website to guide you through this rebuild. (Please post pictures if you do!) Unfortunately you're still stuck with the original generator. The rebuilt stove is not "good as new." 3. If you have a stash of spare 400-5891 generators, congratulations! You hit the jackpot!! Rebuild per #2 above plus replace the generator. You are now ready to start the Continental Divide Trail. And you can finance your trip by selling the extra 400-5891 generators. I own a Coleman 400 identical to yours. I'm using Option 1, run stove as-is, with minor repair as necessary. Fun use only, no serious trips. If anyone wants to cross Antarctica or climb Denali they can borrow my MSR-xGK. Good luck, and post pictures too! Folks here love pictures.
So I'm curious - what happens to the generator tube? Eventually burns through? I assume the tube vaporizes the gas en-route to the burner. Both my white gas stoves are burner plate models and don't have generator tubes. What is the advantage of that design vs. the burner plate? Seems the latter is simpler. Are they quieter?
Residue from incompletely combusted fuel will eventually clog the generator. Coleman intended the generators on most of their stoves since the 1960s to be a disposable part. Unfortunately, they no longer make replacement generators for the model 400. If you have always used Coleman Fuel (or equivalent) in your 400, it may have many more years of service life. Automotive fuel will be more likely to have clogged it up. Several months ago, a member on this forum was making replacement burners for some of these stoves. A quick search on the excellent CCS search engine reveals that he now sells these replacement generators on the Coleman Collectors Forum site here. (Or at least, he was a few months ago.) ....Arch
Thanks, Gasweld, and all others. I hope I haven't overdone it with pics. Unfortunately, Gasweld, while I may know how to pressure test the seals (by simply lighting the stove), I don't know how to "...adjust packing, etc." I'm not real mechanically inclined, to put it simply. Any help on that stuff would be greatly appreciated. I have always used Coleman fuel and always filtered it before filling. My partially filled gallon of fuel in the basement is probably 20 years+ old. Does it degrade? From the pictures, should I be concerned about the rust at the base of the on\off valve? As well as the dent/rust on the bottom edge? Thanks for the help!
No doubt , the rust need some attention. What I will do first is remove the valve where it is rusty and see if by inside it is ok. No matter what it needs to be remove to be fixed. OR A new one. Coleman Peak 1 model 400-499 Backpack Stove | eBay
So @ArchMc does this mean all stoves that use generator tubes (e.g. MSR Whisperlite, etc) will eventually need to replace them?
Hi Tom, thank you for the photos! Your old Coleman fuel will burn fine. Use it. Your stove's as-found condition is similar to my 400 when it arrived, minus the tank dent and rust around the on/off valve. Your stove should clean up fine too. My suggestion; 1. Get a copy of the Owner's Manual (assuming your copy is missing). Here's a link. Scroll down in the post. You will find very good photos of the Owner's Manual plus a great discussion of your stove model. Peak 1 400 10/79 2. Read through this post for more good info. Coleman Peak 1 Model 400 stove 3. Download an "exploded view" of your stove. Here's a good source from Old Coleman Parts' website. Follow the menu thru "Stoves" to "Models 1 to 420" then click on "400." It will be a PDF file. Old Coleman Parts > Diagrams with Parts Lists 4. Perform a basic disassemble & clean. Remove the 2 screws that hold the generator bracket in place, then remove bracket. Carefully loosen the brass nut that holds the generator tube to the on/off valve. Make sure this end is free enough to wiggle. Then gently ease the generator nozzle (end with black lever) out of the burner bowl. You may have to bend the generator tube ever so slightly upward in the center, but be gentle. Shuffling the flare end of the gen tube side-to-side helps. Then lift the grate (X-shaped pot holder) off stove. 5. Remove the burner rings by removing the big center screw. The screw might be rusted tight, so use penetrating oil and patience. Then remove the burner rings. (It's not a disaster if this screw breaks off. It can be replaced by any similar screw.) You are now ready to remove the dirt and rust from all the loose parts. Use mild abrasive tools like a small bronze wire brush, old gun cleaning brushes, abrasive pads (Scotch Brite), fine steel wool, etc. Steel wool is good for cleaning the outside of the generator tube. Be gentle with the burner rings. They bend easily. Brush the rusty areas on the steel tank and folding feet. My suggestion is leave the on/off valve in place for now. It's a bugger to get that valve out. You are not looking to reach bright shiny bare steel, just knock the loose rust off. 6. Check that the burner bowl wick (pad) is still in place. Don't worry about a little singeing. It's just a mop to soak up any liquid fuel that gets into the burner bowl. 7. Reassemble in reverse order. Be gentle on that generator tube, especially the flared end that mates to the on/off valve. Just snug the nut tight, not "gorilla tight." 8. If you've never removed and cleaned the pump rod and cup, do that now. Reassemble. 9. Pressure test. Pump it up as if you were starting the stove. Hold the stove upside down briefly. Check for leaks. Let it sit overnight. Repeat visual leak check in morning. Test the pump; if there is still pressure in the tank it passed the pressure test. Finally, test the on/off valve and flare nut for leaks. Quickly turn it on & off. Check again very carefully during first firing. If the tank passes the pressure test, I suggest leaving the dent and on/off valve areas as-is. Coleman made very sturdy steel tanks. Just my opinion. Put some oil on the rusty areas, or some clear fingernail polish to prevent more rusting. Next time you put the stove in storage, give the burner rings and bowl a light spray of oil (WD-40 etc). This will prevent rust. The oil will smoke briefly during next startup but no big deal. Whew! I hope you are still reading. This is how I tackle old Coleman single burners. Other folks will have other ideas and methods, perhaps much better than mine. Good luck! I'm outa here.
Oops, wrong link for the Owner’s Manual. Please try this. Member “OMC” did a great write up. No.400 10_79 in box, 400 was made 79-84
No. MSR stoves are designed to allow removal of the cable from the generator tube. The cable can be cleaned outside of the tube, and the cable can be used as a tool to clean the inside of the tube. This is one of the nice field-maintainability things that MSR designed into their stoves, and which is partially responsible for the reputation MSR stoves have for burning less-than-ideal fuels. ....Arch
