Hello everyone, I found and purchased a 111 stove today. I doubt it is a 111c but need to be sure about it since the box have only "111" written on it. While I referred to some posts on the forum, I needed a confirmation on this. Below are the pictures. I will give the stove some cleaning and maintenance later since it wasn't in very caring hands it seems. With best regards,
So it is the T version. Thank you. I've extracted the needle which was stuck inside the lower part of burner, blocking the flow system too, stoped later a small leak at the level of the spindle knob. And voila first burn is very acceptable.
The needle is broken, i have to replace it, about the rack, if you mean the wind screen unit, it is missing, I have to improvise a bit here. Thanks @Tony Press . So it is confirmed to be the T?. Regards
The upper cap causes total yellowish fire when sitting at natural position. The inner cap is stuck to the burner and I am not trying with over force to remove it. The burner works well and fire is blue when I tilte the upper cap a bit to the right and I rise it like a half mm, there is a slight yellow fire to one side that gives some little noise too. So at natural position of the upper cap the stove doesn't burn well and when I move and raise the upper cap a little bit, the stove works well (95% blue fire).
There is a little deformation at the mouth of the burner from above, where it meats the bump of the inner cap, it is not a perfect circle, and the inner cap is stuck for some reason (check 3rd picture shared in the first thread above). Below are 3 pictures, one shows yellow flames when the upper cap is in natural position. One with few yellowish flame when I move/push the upper cap a very little bit to the right and one totally blue flame when I raise it a little bit (I can notice a bit of blue flame beneath the upper cap, in the small space there between the upper cap and the plate of the burner, after that I raise it a bit). Maybe all of this is normal, due to age deformation with use.
Migwar The rack that Tony asked about is the toothed brass block the needle is held in. I assume you are burning kerosene. I'd boil up a pot of water for a hot beverage or two and see how badly soot builds up on the bottom of the pot. And, kerosene, everywhere, seems to vary a bit so maybe look for another source to see if the yellow flames continue. Another thing you might consider is to try a different outer burner cap if you can find one (same with inner if you can get it off). Eventually, if the yellowness continues you may try replacing the jet -- a broken cleaning needle may indicate some issue there. In any case, it looks to be working pretty well as is.
Many thanks @itchy .As for the fuel, you are right, I am currently using kerosene, I am going to test/burn white gas later, after doing some cleaning, the system looks stable without leaks, so I will give it a try. I will consider the pot trick first of all too. Tried some 2 other outer burners caps, one from a 5s which worked very well first then later caused some instability with big flames. Inner cap is still stuck . Thanks for the note regarding the rack, I will replace the rack with needle later. I hope that good cleaning will also give better results soon. Many thanks for everything
You may have a jet meant for white gas or the jet suitable for both kero and gas, which only gives mixed results, not the best for each fuel. I have seen some new stoves burn with some yellow. Duane PS: Your outer cap should have a couple straight areas along the lower edge that make fitting it to the burner secure, but that lowers the cap to what is the correct height. The right caps make all the difference.
Thank you, so a jet meant for both kero and gas (Not 100% perfect for each type due to dual functionality), or for gas. Means that both options will safely cover gas. The note regarding the outer cap is very important and new to me, noticed these straight areas before and thought that was a kind of deformation in the outer cap circonference. Much appreciated.
The one straight side is pushed in under one of the tabs on the burner, then the opposite straight edge is then easily pushed in on the opposite side of the burner and rotated a little to hold it in place. That might explain flame to one side and not near perfect color. Duane
@Migwar At this stage, don’t change to gasoline. Keep using kerosene: Can you please post a photo of the burner without the outer cap so that we can see the inner cap and where the outer cap sits? Also, can you post a photo of the outer cap, alone, upside down. Best regards Tony
@hikerduane thank you. Should I lower these 2 nails opposing each other, as shown in the picture below, a little bit? This replies to @Tony Press question too, with thanks.
Those tabs secure and lock the outer cap in place, should not need to mess with them unless they were bent out of place at some time. Duane
@Migwar The two tabs stay as they are. The flat parts of the outer cap are used so they fit at those two tabs and the cap is turned and locked in place by the tabs. Tony
