Leaking pump type fuel cap Svea 123. Need help.

The pip spring is new with the brass pip holder as an assembly from the Fettle Box. It’s the other spring I think is too weak and I’m not messing with it. Pardon the GPA pun but the cap might be going on the back burner for now :-)

 

I hate it when something can't be solved.
Duane

 

Well, if the SRV is too complicated for you, maybe that is a good idea.

Not meant to be harsh, but patience is a necessary tool in our fettling toolbox.

The SRV was probably not meant to be serviced. Just buy another cap was the solution way back when.
Now, after all these years, reading the amount of information contained in this forum is a time consuming endeavor.

Expecting one thread, with a few posts, to solve the problem, is a bit naive.

Spend some time reading about the SRV and the various versions of caps.

 

Not too complicated for me. The cap is actually quite simple in operation and being as all sealing components new and mating surfaces clean I am currently at a loss on next step. It makes no sense to spend $20 on a rebuild kit that just contains soft parts (which have already been replaced but still may be a problem) if the issue is a spring that is not available. I’ll post an update if I get this resolved. Happy New Year all.

 

You can buy a new cap with a new upper spring or a used one with a spring that has not been overheated by you
On the forum you have example how to warm up a cap to have access to upper section of the cap.
Also if you decide to use a spring from somewhere else, it is your responsibility to make sure it works good. You can tested a cap with a new spring by yourself but first you should read a lot on the forum on the subject and decide if it is for you.
Safety first , it is your responsibility.
Have fun

 

Buying another cap usually has a hardened seal. Expect to have to replace seals. Part of the Svea 123 ownership requirements.

 

Optimus 8R 99 199 111 Svea 123 Fuel Cap SRV Tool SRV Fuel Cap Stove | eBay

 

OK, my mind kept wandering back to this cap issue. Issue solved.
I needed to isolate the issue to the pip or SRV as the source of leakage. I temporarily placed a BB between the SRV spring and the brass cup thingy the o-ring sits on (don’t know technical term for it) to increase the pressure on the o-ring. No good, could still blow air through from bottom. Back to the pip for the umpteenth time. I decided to pull the pip up out of the brass pip holder just a little bit. It’s a tight fit. That did the trick. Just needed a little more pressure upward against the tube it seals against. No more leaks. Even though I had a witness mark on pip showing full contact before adjusting, apparently any font pressure at all was enough to overcome the seal.
A couple “after” pics. Not sure why the flame tips are yellow but it roars good and boils the Svea cup full of water in my cold garage in about 4 minutes, 20 seconds.

PS: JP2, thanks for the eBay link on the caps. I have seen those before. Certainly an option.

 

Good on ya.
That flame looks a little "lazy" , I'm sure you have sprayed soapy water around the cap? Or has it ran long enough?

Would be a bother, having both the NRV and SRV to deal with.

 

Bravo,. Super.
Here a note I have on my frig that you may want to use it with your stove.
Bye Bye yellow, Bye Bye.



Good job

 

I had it in the freezer and then stuck in a bucket of water. No leaks. It did get a bit less yellow after running a while but still not like some of my other 123s.

 

JP2, thanks for that! I’ll switch the burner bell assembly with one of my other stoves to see how the flame changes.

 

Great. It should gain speed the longer it runs, but if you have others, you know that.
Duane

 

JP2, I put on a different burner bell where the flame spreader sits a bit higher and gave it a try this morning. The flames were definitely different with less yellow on the tips. The stove is roaring along just fine either way. I appreciate that but of knowledge.
Pic with different bell:

 

You don't have to change the spreader, simply play with legs to adjust the height.
Also, you will need more pressure into the tank.

 

Yes, I am aware I did not need to change the spreader. I just wanted to see the difference in the flame with a spreader at a different height. The spreaders are nicely affixed to both and I did not want to start messing with the "legs". It took about 5 seconds to unscrew the bell and swap. Don't need the spreader falling off and getting lost . I've seen plenty of stoves for sale missing that part.

I'm a little confused by your comment "will need more pressure into the tank". The stove is self pressurizing, pump just for priming assist. I barely have the valve open in the last picture. The flames will go quite high if I open it more. Please clarify if I am missing something. Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

 

I thought you were at the max. Good.
How do you do that for priming, I will try it.