Hi all When I received my lixada stove first edition, il did not have a wick and I thought it was a mistake so I add one. Stove was going well BUT the flame was orange/red color and hot. it was strange. Right at the beginning when @pau-i-amor introduced us to the stove without wick, I was excited then I found a piece of wick after working hard to remove the jet and burner from the tank. Anyway today I removed the wick that was brunish already at the top, add some thread sealant to make sure I have no leak and try. WOW. Now I have a nice blue flame and it is quiet. SUPER, SUPER NEXT STEP , I have a .50 mm jet so let see what would happen with alcohol. Lol Yes I have a pump kit for it.
I've got a Lixada that I like so much I bought a second one, identical, by ROEAM. I was using one yesterday at home just for fun and made some tea. After it cooled off, as I was putting it away I noticed something disturbing. The lower edge of the tank was almost a 16th of an inch above the table surface, the center of the tank was lower than the edge. I compared it with the other stove and the center is at least one 1/8th higher than the tank edge. The difference is slight but of obvious significance. Apparently the tank bottom was bulging downward. A tank rupture or split seam is something catastrophic, potentially lethal. I've used many gasoline powered stoves, Svea 123, 123r, Optimus 8r, Primus 71 ( ? ?) the blue tin box type, I know how they work and what not to do. Don't overfill tank, don't run extended time on maximum, be cautious about large pots or pans reflecting heat downward, be aware of stove/tank temperature. It was an ordinary, mundane few minutes of operation, I only cranked it up to maximum for about 1-2 seconds without anything on it to see how high the flame could go, it was quite impressive and far higher than I would use. The stove with the bulged tank is obviously done, I'll never use it again. I'm now uncomfortable with using the other Lixada, I just don't trust them. It's back to my 123,123r and 8r, I've never had any issues with those. Has anyone experienced or heard of anything similar with these stoves ?
These 5 pictures show, perhaps not as clearly as I'd like, the changes in the bottom of the tank in comparison with one that's not damaged. The picture of both stoves is hard to identify the damage. 2 pictures show the bottoms from the side where on one, the tank center is well below the tank edge. It is not visible at a 90 degree angle, only when viewed from a slight angle above the bottom edge. The damaged one has the tank center about a 16th of an inch above the bottom edge. I think it's apparent in the pictures. The 2 pictures with the ruler are clearer in illustrating the difference. On the undamaged tank a kitchen match rests on the center (with space for another 1/3 match) while the ruler rests evenly on both sides. On the damaged tank, the ruler rests on one edge and the center and doesn't touch the other side but by too small an amount to show in a picture as it's only a 16th of an inch and the definition isn't clear enough. I took a picture with a kitchen match in the center with the ruler across the edges and the match. Unlike the other stove, the ruler contacts one edge and the match but doesn't contact the other edge. This is quite clear in the picture. The damaged stove bulged about three 16ths of an inch or around 4 or 5 millimeters. What this means for owners of Lixada, ROEAM or Walker type stoves is up to the individual. I won't use mine and anyone who continues to use theirs should exercise extreme caution regarding fuel level and tank temperature. I don't know if there is a design fault or a quality control issue. Possibly poor quality control allowed lesser grades (thinner or softer) of stainless steel to be used in some but not all stoves. I don't know and I won't take any chances. It's too bad because I am fond of the design and would prefer it to a Svea if I wasn't concerned about a catastrophic explosion. Sort of makes brewing a cup of tea an extreme sport that I won't engage in.
Both fuel caps are identical and there is nothing to read under the fuel caps. That is if you mean on the underside of the cap itself. Beneath the caps on the tank is a line with the word MAX printed below.the line. This indicates maximum fuel level in the tank.
If you are worried that this thing happened because of too much pressure into the tank, here is a kit to built pressure in winter with safety valve especially for that stove. Lixada Stove Mini Pump Minipump Fuel Cap | eBay
Strangely enough, I had ordered exactly these items hours before the tank bulged. I haven't received it yet but when I do I may put the undamaged stove back into use. I think the damaged one should be parts only. I still have doubts because based on my stove experience I can't believe the stove was pressurized enough to activate a SRV. I've never had a SRV release on any of my stoves. I hope the SRV on the new Lixada cap releases at a lower pressure than the tank bulges at.
When I look that sick stove on the last picture, it seems to be built that way which is différents to a normal one like yours or mine. Maybe you could bring it back a little and try it with your new SRV. When you check a stove that over heat, the bottom or the top start to form a round like a balloon but not yours which is why I think it maybe save. What to you think?
I've pressed the center of the damaged stove back up and operated it very carefully. I'm not sure if that was wise but it appeared to function safely without any movement on the tank bottom. The pump and SRV cap have not yet arrived. The damaged stove and the undamaged one looked identical before the damage, no visible difference in how they were made.
I have the newer iWalker G43 and it leaks air near the burner assembly/font junction. What thread seller did You use. I attempted to tighten the connection on my vise but even with a bit of movement the leak continues.
Here are some burn photos taken after I tightened the stove font/burner connection. I’ve also found that the stove will pressurize better (and quicker) using CF for priming rather than alxohol. First pics are with the silent burner and later with the burner plate. I boiled a liter of water with both burner configurations and the burner plate was faster…but not by much. The iWalker seems like a pretty good stove. It’s not at the ‘trust it’ stage at this point….we’ll see. Thanks for the advice re the thread sealer…I’ll use some next time I take the stove apart. In a somewhat related topic, I sourced some burner plates that fit my 123, 123R and Optimus 8R stoves. Less than $10…I’ll try them out, take some pics and post the results. I have fitted but not fired these burner plates and the fit is accurate.
Are these Lixada stoves still for sale or out of production? Can only find a lookalike (well, it's a lookalike of the Svea), the iWalker (G43S).
First model was the Lixada and not long after G43 show up with silence burner. BTW, silence cap fit on the lixada.
To answer my own question, I think this particular Lixada stove is out of production. They do have this stove: Portable One-piece Outdoor Gasoline Stove Camping Picnic Hiking Burner Archived version: https://archive.ph/gFnE4 The next stove from China that seems to come close is the iWalker G43S. This company also has the AG53 (alcohol and gasoline pressure stove) and G53S (white oil (white gas?) and gasoline). The AG53 as seen here: IWALKER AG53 Alcohol/Gasoline Dual Fuel Outdoor Stove Burner Camping Stove Silent Burner for Travel Picnic Emergency - AliExpress 18 Archived version: https://archive.ph/yYjwt I find this one interesting, because it is a alcohol pressure stove. These are rather rare as new, commercially available stoves, ready to use without any modifications.
It's now called IWALKER best price around is Amazon>> Amazon.com I have one of these as well, a bit more bulky not stainless but has a larger silent burner head and does the same job. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...ene:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller|query_from:
