Discussion in 'Fettlers Master Class' started by kaw550red, Sep 8, 2006.
Go on Bryan, you know you want to !
Beat me ( ) to it, Keith!
I think Bryan should let us know the website address - just so that we don't make the same mistake as he did, of course...
Puts a whole new meaning on the words 'Pump Leathers' , but think of the cachet of having them in 'Dominatrix Red Leather' .
(I'm sure Shagratork can find a suitable dancing 'emoticon' to capture the idea .... )
Is that a Borde Bomb in your pocket - or are you just pleased to see me...?
Putting "sheet leather" into Google and I found this interesting site !
They are so cheap I've ordered a few
And I also found this one - about time the Vikings took notice of safety requirements, bit late for Lindisfarne !
I have obviously led a sheltered life!
Unfortunately I am at an age that qualifies me to be a dirty old man so I am definitely not going to a leather underwear factory!
and you'll be sleeping on your own...!
Here you go Spudz!
Knew you wouldn't let me down Trevor.
Thats her alright, just what the Doctor ordered ...
" .whip crack away
whip crack away
whip crack awaaaaaaaaargh !"
I recently aquired a Primus 96 and Tilley lamp. After 40 years in shed was surprised that after washing in regular soap and water the pumps "came alive", however when opening the tube to look, the things completely fell apart. After digging about in shed I found a rubber gasket and came to the same conclusion that you can make them by putting on the wrong way to form them. Rubber is no good for this so worked out must be leather. Am currently working on tongues from shoes as the thinner leather is more supple. Your description was most helpful, thank you.
Whilst I was on holiday in Scotland recently I visited Thomas and he showed me this compass cutter which is available from Maplins for the princely sum of £2.99
It is a Rolson Compass Cutter No 62949
The compass cutter is graduated to help setting the diameter. The instructions are slightly confusing in that the unscrewing and screwing instructions refer to the locknut on the pivot not on the spindle which is used to revolve the tool when cutting.
It cuts circles from 10 mm diameter to 150 mm diameter so is suitable to cut circles of leather for pump washer making
Whilst it is not as convenient as a punch it is a lot cheaper!
I think that I have found a supplier for leather for pump washer making at long last.
His email address is
He sounds very helpful and will supply off cuts or hides. The ideal thickness appears to be 1.2 mm - 1.4 mm thick but if anyone finds a better thickness please let me know
Will these work for the M-1950 stove? If not is there a source?
You might have one inside the pump stem, have you unscrewed the handle and had a peek inside?
You can find 'm1950 pump cup' on eBay too.
Making them by this method will also work fine.
The only thing I found in the pump stem was a new jet assembly. I Ebay'd and found a couple complete spare parts kits for about $19.00...if they took credit cards I would buy them
Thanks for the procedure and great detail! Using the information above as a guide, I came up with another method to make leather pump cups that may be of help to others. Hopefully it will provide another option to those wanting to make their own but avoid the expensive punches.
1. Multi-purpose 'specialty' leather-cutting scissors: OLFA SCS-2, made in Japan (or equivalent)
2. Fine-bladed exacto knife to cut the center hole
3. Hardwood cutting board
4. Canadian nickel/quarter for the sizing or equivalent (camping/domestic respectively)
5. Existing Pump leather cup for center-hole orientation/demarkation (camping/domestic respectively)
6. Pump rod/piston whose parts can be unscrewed (1 each camping/domestic)
7. Leather remnant, smooth one side rough the other (1.6 mm thick, preferably natural or tan/beige colored). Leather remnants bought from Tandy.
8. Stove with appropriate-sized pump chamber (1.35 cm camping/1.7 cm domestic)
Tools used and example leather pump cups at various stages
1. With a small C-clamp or your fingers, keep the nickel positioned on the smooth side of the leather and cut around it flush with the scissors. Trim with the scissors or the fine exacto blade to smooth any edges (if required).
2. Using the existing leather pump cup as a template, center it over the cut-out leather on the cutting board and delineate the extents of the center hole with the exacto knife carefully.
3. With the extents marked (e.g. cut marks through the leather), put aside the template and working on the cutting board finish cutting out the center circle with the exacto knife.
4. With a hole created, use the scissors to enlarge the hole to approximately 5.5 mm in diameter. Use the threaded portion of the piston that holds and helps shape the leather as a guide.
5. Once the hole is cut/sized, place it in a small 1/2 cup ramekin with a bit (40 ml) of warm water. Once wet pinch the leather to compress it and expel any trapped air - it will sink to the bottom. Let sit for 30 minutes.
6. Remove from the water. Carefully thread/push/slightly stretch it on the piston (thread it on) furry side towards the smooth rounded portion. Ensure it is flush with flat side of the piston(e.g. all the threads are exposed), replace the nut and hand-tighten to pinch the leather between the piston/nut.
7. Reverse the orientation of the piston/cup/nut back onto the pump rod and replace the pump rod's small end nut (if necessary).
8. Carefully push the pump rod with reversed piston back into the stove's pump cylinder as far in as she will go. The smooth side of the leather should be pressed against the inside of the pump tube. There is a fair bit of play in the pump rod so I don't personally bother tightening/screwing the pump cap on the stove - it's centered properly enough in my experience.
9. Leave the stove in a warm, dry place for 2 days, remove the pump rod/piston, remove the leather, oil it with 3:1 and place it in the stove that requires it. Pump it a few times to ensure she's good to go and generates pressure in the tank.
10. Repeat with next pump leather (if required).
Pump cup stages (left-right) - original cut, cut trimmed with start center hole and finally the pump cup reversed over the piston and dried, ready for oiling and removal for use in the waiting pump-cup less stove.
I've made over 2 dozen leather pump cups using this method and haven't had a 'bad' one yet - they are all fully functional. It takes less than 5 minutes to cut the leather and do the center hole, the rest is just wait time.
I can't ever see myself making multiple hundreds of pump cups or selling them, so an expensive punch is something I and likely most of you don't need. I have a couple of 'spare' stoves available for this task (2 camping, 1 domestic) and after a few dozen more leathers I won't need any more until a new stove requires it. Are they perfect circles - nope and they don't have to be (but they are pretty close...). The scissors ($35 Cdn) can also be used to cut leather, paper, rubber (viton), linen, thin metal etc of any size/shape with ease.
I agree. My leather shears are usually at home and my time to mess about with stoves occurs when i steal it from the company, at work. I usually reach into the lower drawer of my big honkin' luthier's tool chest and come back with the proper gouges to cut circles of any size needed. Smaller gouge makes the center hole quick as a blink. Now, back to work.
I'd be happy to mail sufficient leather to fellows needing some for the cost of the stamp or a fitting swap. I have wholesale buyer status at Tandy so there is a lot of leather in the corner. I'll mike some and see if i have a 1.6 MM hide. piper
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