MSR XGK with Yellow Pump

Chuck, don't listen to Doc, let me know when you want to part with your stove, we don't want to put his mother-in-law out of her job finding stoves for him.
I also checked my stoves a bit ago, the thumb screw version is smaller diameter, but longer in length of the tube.

Anybody heard from Sam up in I-D-ho?

 

Messing with you guys about getting rid of the boxes. Heck, I still have my receipt, box, original fuel line and instructions for my Int'l from '89 which I still use, but with the newer version of the fuel line.

Duane

 

HD, Sam might be doing a lot of camping at this time with his kidz. Otherwise, you would be seeing him more often on the forum.

Ron

 

Yep, I've been really busy. Went out of town on business for 10 days and then went on a camp out for a couple of days. Didn't take any MSRs but I did take my PW AutoCook and my Optimus 45. Had a great time while the weather was nice and hot. It's cold and snowing again.

Still looking for that naughty number 9.

sam

 

Doc,

Did you ever describe the yellow pump air hose replacement process? I just picked up a 1983 Firefly that came with the yellow pump. The air hose has broken off, is the color of rubber bands, and is brittle. I could leave well enough alone, but would hate for the remaining part to let loose at an inopportune time. I replaced the o-rings with ones from the LHS and it cranked the Firefly right up, so it is working. Thanks in advance,
Scott

 

Have a look at Sam's post here:

https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/136015

 

Snowgoose,

Thanks!!!

PS My grey and black pump from @1988 (International) is also up and running just fine after an o-ring replacement. Guess I was lucky in not trying to pump too hard in my youth! ;-)

 

I just picked up the MSR X-GK at a thrift store for 15.00 dollars. My yellow pump has the same problem, broken air hose. Thanks for the fix instructions! How long did you make the length
of the replacement air tube?

 

I just measured the tube in the pics above for the bottom pump and found that it sticks out of the pump shaft 2.75 inches. The other one measures 3 inches. Both work great so I'm not sure how much exact length matters over having the tube stick up so that it is out of the fuel and into the air space within the fuel bottle.

You don't want it too long either since a shorter bottle would make the tube curl up.

The newer pumps are made of hard plastic and turn at a 90 degree angle into the air space in the bottle so I would say that access to air space is more important that anything so that if something did happen to the pump, only air would spray out rather than a bunch of fuel.

The pump would still work with a really short air tube but with the obvious design changes and, perhaps, safety issue.

hope that helps,
sam

 

Thanks idahostoveguy!

 

Hi All

I've read this thread with much interest as I am trying to recondition an old MSR XGK with a yellow pump that my dad bought in Seattle when travelling in the early 80s.

Both the fuel and air hoses had corroded and snapped off and the seals were all pretty perished. I have replaced most of the O rings and following instructions on here, removed (carefully) the push pins that secure the check valve mechanism.

I have the teflon disc, the brass olive and the spring and have found some pipe that fits the olive and will happily sit inside the pump. It's not super snug inside the pump, but when I push the pins in it all feels solid.

However, I have two small issues.

Firstly, the leather cup doesn't seem to be giving me as much pressure as I'd like, I have oiled it but even after around 20 pumps, the stove doesn't roar as my dad remembers it! I'm going to soak the leather in oil for a longer period of time, and failing this will replace it with the rubber version in the repair kit.

However, there is also a leak. I have located this leak to be definitely coming back past the check valve and out of the oil hole in the pump handle. I'm guessing this leak is also partly responsible fo the lack of pressure.

My understanding is that the leak could be down to a few things:
- O ring corrosion meaning that the seal between this and the teflon pad is not very good
- Spring not pushing hard enough on the teflon pad
- Configuration of the air pump and olive not giving optimal function to the check valve setup

I have tried a few configurations of the air tube, moving the olive further up the tube or nearer the end, but I can't get anything to work reliably.

What are people's thoughts?

 

I would say it's the o-ring you first mentioned. That is probably as hard as the disc you pulled out and will most likely need replaced. Use a viton o-ring. I would replace the pump leather with the same leather or make one, but then there may be nothing wrong with it due to the leak. Fix it first and then see if the leather is still a problem.


Sam

 

Replacement parts for all MSR yellow pumps! I've found that you can replace almost every small part to the yellow pumps at Tractor Supply or Ace's Hard Wear Store.
* Every gasket on the pumps
* Correct size clear fuel hose
* Round metal screen inside pump
* Brass fitting (olive) goes in fuel hose
* Cotter pins for old yellow pump
* Spring
I've also found that sometimes a paper hole punch and a thicker milk jug can be used to replace the little white disc in the end of the yellow pumps.
Sometimes you can also find the retaining clips used to hold the pump latch on to the fuel block and the pan wire clips of both the newer and older style Models of stoves at Tractor Supply as well.

 

As a guest follower of the site for a long time, but never before a poster, I wanted to first thank the many members for contributing such valuable information on such an interesting subject. I am not yet a collector of classic camp stoves, although I could easily want to be one. I do, however, have an old MSR GK stove (yellow pump, gold tone body) I purchased, along with Colin Fletcher’s book that I also still have, in the late 70's or early 80's when planning some 3rd world and rural travel. The code on the metal block is 100 781, which I understand may be 1978 or possibly 1981 (either of which could be in the right timeframe). The stove has always been one of my favorite possessions, and is in almost new condition as, although used, it has been carefully cared for. I have other, newer stoves, but the GK has always seemed special.


After many years of non-use, the stove was last used a few years ago in Florida following a hurricane, operated flawlessly, and was then again cleaned and carefully packed away. Since hurricane season is beginning again, it has motivated me to return the stove to its best condition. I have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer: 1) The leather in the pump does not move smoothly in the shaft and sounds dry (only moved it a little to check for movement) - I have seen references to oiling it, but have not seen the type of oil mentioned - can someone recommend the proper type to treat the leather?, 2) I am thinking of getting the MSR annual maintenance kit mostly for backup for the various O-rings but am unsure if the X-MSR kit also correctly covers the older GK – does anyone know?, and 3) I’m also considering the newer Red/Grey pump to have on hand as a backup replacement pump in the event the yellow one ever fails – is it the best new pump available at present? Any other thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.


Again, thanks for a great site and for any help provided.

Jim

 

Hello Jim, I've found that 3 in 1 oil works very good. Or another oil with similar attributes. An oil with a thicker longer lasting consistency than say WD-40. I've also discovered that most local hardware stores like Aces, Tractor Supply, or even Lows should have the correct sizes and fuel compatible gaskets (O-rings). Just remove the old ones and take with you to compare and get the right sizes. Harbor Freight is another good source for parts. And Yes the red and black pumps are the best and newest from MSR. Hope this helps. But I prefer using the classic yellow pumps which are very easy and straight forward to rebuild. Hope this helps.

 

Greetings, Jim,

A few words of warning about oils and o-rings. First, do NOT use WD-40 as a lubricant of any kind. It is a horrible lubricant, and fails every single honest test that has been performed on it. WD-40 is little more than a "water displacement" tool, hence, the "WD=water displacement"; the "40" is simply the 40th attempt to make something like that, according to the Gentleman who came up with it. Fun, huh?!? I use gun oil, and find it wonderfully effective. I've also used olive oil, which has worked well, but have now gone back to gun oil.

Also, do NOT use any gaskets, or o-rings that you get from ACE, or any other such place, UNLESS they are fuel resistant, like Nitrile rubber, or by far better, Viton rubber. Otherwise, you run a huge risk of breakdown of the rubber, and then a possible leak and fireball!! I have used the Harbor Freight stuff for quite a while, and found their Nitrile to be pretty good, but not perfect. Viton rubber is the absolute best option, if you can find it here in the US. The Fettle Box, right here at CCS, sells Viton pips, gaskets, and such, but I don't know about o-rings. Safety and care are the watch words when rebuilding all pumps. Many of us have had huge fireballs after failure of pips, gaskets, or o-rings, and let me tell you, it's not something you want to face!! Good luck, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

Try NAPA or another auto parts store for fuel resistant o rings.

 

Thanks to you all for your quick replies – knew I could get reliable information here.

Good to know about the new pumps – I’ll get one as a backup and to use if needed while restoring the yellow pump.

I’m a shooter and boater also, and learned the limitations of WD-40, but it never hurts to be reminded since it’s so easy to grab that can. I’ll try the gun oil as I have it on hand and have used it for many years in firearms, but also good to know the 3 in 1, olive oil and others would work. Wasn’t sure if the leather required a certain non-standard lubricant.

I’ll look for the o-rings Doc suggested, and will find out more about the auto store rings’ material, but in the short term may get the maintenance kit until I can find the others locally and be sure they are correct. The kit has the advantage of also providing an unused sample of all the rings for sizing, although I found the size of the large ring, but not the small, on another thread. From a safety standpoint it’s definitely not worth the risk of getting the wrong rings. Although I haven’t heard it for a while, I recall the jet engine roar of the GK always getting my attention when it heated up, and I hate to think what a fuel leak fireball might be like under pressure, as well as the damage it might do.

Thanks again.
Jim

 

Hi, Jim,

One thing to remember: the o-rings in the older yellow pumps are different in size than the new kits provide. I'll see if I can dig out one of the kits I made, and let you know what you need to seek, for size. Good to have another shooter here at CCS! Many of our US Stovies, and more than you might imagine of our Norwegian, Swedish, Finnish, and other European Stovies, also shoot, and hunt. Glad to have you with us, and talk to you soon, about the proper sizes you need. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

P.S. The easy way to see what size you need, is to save the old o-rings, and match them up to it's replacement. Even so, I'll dig out my rebuild kits, and see if I've noted the sizes you need.

 

Thanks Doc, that was really my concern in asking about the maintenance kits since there have been so many 'improvements' since the yellow pumps, and so many newer models, and I suspected there might have been small changes to the dimensions of the pumps over the years. From what I have found in their descriptions (MSR’s and Amazon’s) of the kits, they imply that it’s a one-size-fits-all in the Annual Maintenance Kits, although the Expedition Kit has 4 choices due, I guess, to accessories. I just didn’t feel comfortable with that unless as a last resort. As I’m sure you know, small changes in dimensions can be a big concern when dealing with holding fuel under pressure.

I haven’t searched the local auto and specialty or big box hardware stores yet so I don’t know how simple or complicated the choices of o-rings may be, but was trying to avoid removing the old rings until I had replacements available for fear of damaging the old ones, being unable to match them due to their being damaged or stretched, and the pump being useless. I appreciate your mentioning it though as it may be necessary to do it that way as a last resort. From your various posts on other threads, I know you’re busy, but if you come across the size information for the rings without going to too much trouble, it would be very much appreciated.

By the way, thanks for the warm welcome – this seems to be a diverse group. I might add that, as member or follower of quite a few outdoor-related sites, I have found this group to be some of the most consistently… call it ‘civil’… in providing information and expressing opinions. Although there may be some I have missed, I have yet to see threads where posters get into heated criticisms of others’ opinions or suggestions or ‘trolls’ try to stir them up. Refreshing…

Jim