Hey guys, Well I have just won on ebay an unused Russian 8R clone stove, so I am pretty hyped. I probably paid over the odds for it (what is a good price for an unused one??), but I thought it was worth paying due to unused ones being quite uncommon. I have a couple of questions though before I receive the stove. What is the best fuel to use? Coleman fuel, panel wipe, aspen 4t, unleaded?? I have also recently bought a coleman single mantle duel fuel lantern, so if I can use the same fuel that would be great. Any good advice to get the best performance out of it? Even though it is unused, but stored for a while, should I give it a service?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all Nick
cap washer is probably due for replacement otherwise blow the dust off and light. Panel wipe coleman and aspen are all good for both stove and lantern Unleaded will work in the stove if you really have to but dont make a habit of it or get it near the lantern.
You have three Aspen retailers in Kent: Cooks Garden Machinery Unit 5 Crabtree Close, Gravesend Road, Fairseat, TN15 7JL Tel: 01732 822472 E O Culverwells Unit 1 Leigh Green Ind. Est. Appledore Road Tenterden TN30 7DE Tel: 01580 766300 Email: tparts@culverwells.co.uk Lister Wilder Henwood Road ,Henwood Industrial Estate, Ashford Kent TN2 8DH Tel: 01233 619290 http://www.aaoil.co.uk/environment-Aspen-Stockists I use it in stoves and lanterns and its great stuff.
Hi Nick. Welcome to the forum. I'm pretty certian we've got a member in Sydenham but can't remember who . Some water based degreasers are being described as panel wipe. If you go for panel wipe you need the petroleum based stuff usually obtainable from automotive paint suppliers. My local one is Autopaints Plus in Lewes (£12.50 inc VAT for 5 litres). They offer free local delivery but I don't know if that stretches into Kent. Regards, Terry
re value Valuations are not given here as there are so many variables. For an unused classic stove in box at auction the value is one dollar more than the second highest bid and between 5 and 100 times as much as an identical used stove. If you are worried about the value do not light it. Dont even fix the hardened cap washer unless you can get a genuine replacement. If you dont really care about the value enjoy a good practical stove.
Yep, the asking price on these stoves seems to have gradually gone up over the last couples years. I picked up a couple several years ago; one was fine the other had had the wick drop out of the fuel tube. Never could get the tank off but I was able to shove the wick back in with a curved hemostat -- what a pain, but it worked.
Not an outrageous price in my humble opinion. It should bring hours of pleasure and can develop its own patina and history. What's next on the list?
The 8R is a real workhorse, and the Russian clone is even better. It is practically indestructible. Use it and enjoy it! (I have 3 of them, which I bought after the first one was stolen - with my car.) Yonadav
Thanks guys. I paid about £10 more than my original limit, but I thought it was worth a go. A used one from the same seller sold for exactally the same price :-) Well the next stove........ I do already own a swedish military trangia that I bought ages ago. I like it a lot.. I think I am leaning towards the more military all in one mess tin / cooking systems. I like the look of the bcb crusader system ( not a classic, but good design). Any ideas on what people think are the best designed military cooking systems?? Thanks all. Nick
Hey guys, Well just received my 8r clone. Very nice. It came with a funnel, a spanner and a rubber seal for something. I will upload some pics soon. Anyway I filled it wil panel wipe (naptha stuff) put a little syringe of fuel under the stove lit it and waited to see what happend. Well the fuel lit up, and a slight little pulsing from the burner, but not much else. It kind of went out after 5 minutes of feeble burning. Am I doing something wrong? I will also upload a video to show you what i mean. I have also heard about people adjustin the needle. I have tried to open up the nozzle of the stove using the rectangular spanner, but it is on really tight. Thanks all. Nick
Hi, two things to consider: 1. The tank should only be filled approx 2/3 full so that air pressure can build up and force the fuel out through the jet. 2. Check the rubber washer in the filler cap. It should be supple and flexible so that it fully seals the filler when tightened. Read these instructions for the Op.8R: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/272 Check the obvious things before messing witht he jet or cleaning needle. Best Regards, Kerophile.
I hope you put the priming fuel in the priming cup just below the burner... (not "under the stove"). Also, make sure you only open the valve 1/4 turn. if you "open" it more you actually shut it off with the needle. The maximum open position is half way between the two limits. Yonadav
Just a thought Nick; there has been a recent post about Panel Wipe. It seems that there is a water-based degreasing agent that is being marketed as a "panel wipe". Are you sure that you have got the naptha based genuine Panel Wipe?. Thought that it would be best you know of this before you start taking the new stove apart. Hope all works out well - Steve.
Thanks guys for the link to the english instructions. Works like a charm. I think i must have been overfilling the tank. Anyway testing boiling a kettle with 1 lt of water. Thanks for the info on Panel wipe. I had read that forum, as well as a coleman one (i have just bought a coleman lantern). I made sure I bout the "bad" panel wipe - the one with naptha and massive warning label on it :-) Yes also I have been filling the bowl too :-) Also should fully clockwise be off? When I start the stove by lighting the bowl, a bit of fuel comes out the needle before I turn it counter clockwise. Is this right? Will it leak while travveling?? Thanks. Nick
Yes, fully clockwise is "Off". The little fuel that comes out is from the space around the needle gear. The stove should not leak unless you grossly misalign the needle.
Hi Nick, If this was straight out the box and never used before, the other reason for the poor performance first time might have been that the wick simply hadn't had enough time to properly soak up the fuel. By the second use it was ready to rock and roll. Cheers, Graham.
Hey guys, Well i have had my stove for a bit and I am enjoying it a lot. I have made a windscreen out of tin foil, which helps massivly out doors. I am also using just panel wipe too, and it is working very well. A couple of questions though. On the tank there seems to be the option to use a pump. Is this worth it? Also, when i start the stove up, by putting some panel wipe in the resevoir, lots of soot covers the outside of the burner. Am I doing something wrong, or is this just one of those things?? Also looking to buy one of those Zebra Billy Cans to use with it. Which size do you think -10,12 or 14 cm?? Thanks in advance. Nick
To avoid soot, use alcohol to preheat. I am not quite sure, but I don't think there is any pump to the russian 8R, only to Optimus 8R.
Hi, as Kristian suggests, there is no pump available for the Russian clone, as far as I know. I also believe that the filler thread is incompatible with the Optimus 8R filler cap/ pump. I find that if you slightly overfill the priming alcohol, and the flames lick the tank, the tank pressure increases..... Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi all my 8r clone blue box silver tank no name marks or instructions is - fully clockwise to clean fully anti clock wise off middle on full it is also easy to confuse low power and starting to clean both give a small flame . the rubber bit is a spare gland seal for the valve gear it fits between to washers on the valve spindle great stove it should last a long time all the best Blaze
