My "new" 111B

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by hobowonkanobe, Apr 18, 2008.

  1. hobowonkanobe

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    OK, 1st of all, this one seems to be considerably older than my last one; the cap is the split style w/ what looks like a pin driven into it, the lower right logo is a 1/4" tall X 5/8" wide embossed 111B.
    Asside from that; the pump leather is shredded, and the NRV inner cylinder was plasic and is now broken (cracked ) at the base, where it looks like a screw driver slot.
    Anyone know where I can geta new (old what ever) inner cylinder ( the end that faces INTO the tank) for the nrv and whos the guy that makes the pump leathers?
     
  2. DAVE GIBSON

    DAVE GIBSON Subscriber

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    Sefaudi is the man to see about the pump leathers--the parts are beyond me--
     
  3. spudz

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    As Dave says, Sefa for the pump leathers and Doug Weiss - Exeter Yak - or A+H in the US or Base Camp in the UK for the NRV bits.

    Best of luck
     
  4. hobowonkanobe

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    Yeah recognised his name when browsing thru the forum, and PMed him. Already done. Thanx gents.

    Aaron
     
  5. hobowonkanobe

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    as I errently posted on the stove forum (sorry Ross) the 111B is running thanks to a pilfered pump cup from my 210 till the new ones arrive, it does burn but cockeyed. The flames lean towards the tank w/ sparse flames towards ther back.
    Also, the jet was put in by the incredible hulk. or, they used lock tite, not sure which. any ideas how to get that outa there if I DO need to replace the jet for that flame prob?
     
  6. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    Firstly, get the proper wrench. Then with a small butane or propane torch with a pencil flame, heat the nipple, let it cool, heat it one more time, then take it out. The nipple doesn't get very hot in operation and heating and cooling a couple of times will swell it and allow it to contract, hopefully breaking the hold on it.

    Good luck.

    Gerry
     
  7. hobowonkanobe

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    fortunantly, the propper tool came w/ it, when that failed, I tryed pliers. Nope, didn't work either, I'll try this next.
    Are we taslking a basic propane torch or a lil butane jobbie?
     
  8. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    Doesn't matter all that much, just heat and cool the nipple a couple of times.

    Good luck,

    Gerry
     
  9. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    I've been doing that for years, and it hasn't fallen off yet.................. Just gets bigger !!!!! :lol:
     
  10. Prime Us

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    "I've been doing that for years, and it hasn't fallen off yet.................. Just gets bigger !!!!!

    And they always come with a spare, though you'd sure hate to lose one.

    Gary
     
  11. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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  12. hobowonkanobe

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    ROTFLOL!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
    sux bursting out in a sudden burst of laughter in a Library. No sense of humour here, no sir! :lol:
     
  13. hobowonkanobe

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    Oi, thug, you think lighting and cooling the burner it self might accomplish that? I simply do not have or have access to a torch at the moment.
     
  14. Nordicthug

    Nordicthug R.I.P.

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    Not likely, the jet (nipple) doesn't get hot enough to cause it to move the fraction of a thousandth of an inch it needs to break loose. If you have access to one, you might try a butane BBQ lighter, one of the long ones. Heat the jet as much as possible, then flash cool it in cold water a couple of times.

    Another "tek-nee-kew" is to screw a stuck threaded object inward a teensey bit. That tek-nee-kew is called "waking it up" and can be amazingly effective, most of the time the movement is so small it won't even be felt. If'n y'all gets it apart without breaking anything, a wee drop of milk of magnesia on the threads will avoid this hassle in the future. M of M helps lots of things get moving and come out more easily.

    Good luck,

    Gerry
     
  15. hobowonkanobe

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    :lol: :lol: :lol: I don' doubt it. Thanx, Thug.

    Aaron