I just got a brand new Svea 123r , and have a quick question about it... On the slightly older Sveas I've seen and used there are threads clearly visible where the valve assembly/generator clearly screws into the tank. I don't see any threads on mine, and in fact, it almost looks like the valve assembly is brazed to the tank. I was just curious if in fact the tank still screws on just like the older ones or if the design might have changed. The instructions that came with it show the classic exploded view with the tank just screwing on. I just want to make sure that when the time comes (in the distant future) to remove the tank to clean it or to replace the wick that I won't have any trouble. Thanks!
Hello Rocketboy and Welcome to the forum! I also purchsed a new Svea 123r this year. The vaporizer screws into the tank as with the older 123r, but the new version has some sort of thread sealant on it. It is hardened and has a copper color to it. Take a close look around the base of the vaporizer. Also post pictures of the vaporizer/tank joint if you can... Others on this site may know more about this issue and you will likely get some more information. Best regards, Mike.
Take a picture and post it so we can see if it was in fact brazed or just sealant/epoxy. We can not give you suggestions without seeing the connection. Best Ron
Here's a picture... What you're saying makes sense, it does look like some sort of sealant. If I were to take it apart what would it be best to seal it up with? Would I even need to replace the sealant after disassembling it? Thanks
Yes that looks like the same sealant that was on mine. I had issues with a wick that fell out of the vaporizer. I did not remove the vaporizer as it looked like it would require some serious work. I just returned it and got a replacement. If you end up having to remove the vaporizer in the future it might require some heat to get it off from the tank...just my opinion anyway. Best regards, Mike.
The stem if the burner is tapere and normally does not require a sealant. If you wish you could use graphite or copper gasket sealant applied to the male thread. Brass is soft so be careful when tightening.
Loc-tite makes a variety of sealants for automotive use. Some are high temperature but the stove may exceed the safe working temp. I guess this suggests that in place of precision Swedish machining, you can use Chinese machining and a thread sealant?
I don't think I've ever seen a 123 or 123R valve burner that deep-seated before. Most of the time, maybe all, the ones I've seen show a few threads above the tank. One of my Sieverts show one whole thread and part of a second thread. The Rs I have show thread. Maybe this one does _not_ have a tapered thread on it? That would be a good reason for the thread sealant. I've cleaned and put together at least a dozen of these and never have had to use any sealant to make a seal. sam
After rebuilding my Chinese 'Petromax clone', (Anchor brand), I have to say that cutting decent pipe threads is not a prized skill there. I had to either re-thread or just chase them all! Leaked like a sieve before, nice and tight now.
If it seemed like it was necessary, what type of sealant would it be best to use when re-assembling it? Would a high temperature RTV work or would something like J B Weld be better? Thanks!
Good! Take heed and think about the meaning within RonPH’s signature: A wise man once said "if it ain't broken, don't fix it!" You have just got a brand new stove – leave it alone – If well looked after you should not need to do anything for years – and then, most probably all you will need to do is change the stove washer – see the Trading Post here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/ Just use the stove for what is was meant for – cooking your tucker and boiling your kettle whilst camping and hiking! Cheers, Rob
I agree with Rob. I assure you that when the time comes, in the very distant future, that you may have to remove the burner, you will have no trouble putting it back. I think this answers your question! 8)
