so, HDPE plastic washers instead of lead? a Folgers plastic coffee 'can' is HDPE. are you saying i can cut out a washer of this plastic for a replacement?
@monkeyboy HDPE makes fine washers for NRVs- around 1mm thickness and make sure the hole is not too large. I have both lead and HDPE for odd sized washers and pre-cut lead and HDPE washers from The Fettle Box. The trick is to tighten the NRV firmly, but do not overtighten and distort the washer. Cheers Tony
I took the new NRV and installed it today using a tool I made at work. Carefully threaded it in and tightened it-not too much. I installed the pump and pumped up the stove and watched pump handle. It didn't move so I would consider this a success! I didn't get sprayed with fuel either.
I bought a beautiful NRV tool on ebay from a Japanese fellow. It is a thing of beauty. I used it on my Optimus 1S project.
Ok I went to see what jet was in the stove as I have seen various jets used and took out the jet and found a M stamped on it. When I removed the jet the cleaning needle also came out and I tried to reset it to no avail. I cant drop the needle in and get it to catch on the teeth. There is no room to hold it upright. Just when I thought I had it, and I put the jet in, when I tightened up the jet, the needle would come up all the way when I turned the spindle to the left and go down when It was turned all the way to right. But as soon as I pumped the pump, fuel sprayed upward so obviously the needle was not all the way down preventing fuel from coming out. Frustrated I took the needle out and the stove worked better. Any issue with the needle not being in there? Does anyone know how to hold the needle in place? I have done this procedure on my 8 R but couldn't get this.
Hold in place with the eraser on a pencil. No problem without the needle. 4 or 5 clicks should set the needle and valve right.
Yes, you must close the valve all way to the right before inserting the needle. The rack of the needle toward the left. Pressing down the needle, open the valve (to the left) till you hear one click, continue three more clicks. Then close the valve to the rigth. Install the jet. Light the stove to see how she works. Sounds complicated but it isn't Regards: Enrique
Ok so today I tried (needle) again but failed. Fuel came out when I pumped it up. Now I need another cleaning needle if I decide to put it back in. Stove runs the same without it in, and I have a pricker tool from Svea that will clean the hole in the jet that is much simpler. Now another question-Is there a cleaning screen in the tube from the tank to the burner? I see the spindle rebuild kits that have the screen.
Is the needle tip broken off? If the needle isn't set right it can prevent the valve from closing. I'd say if the needle tip is OK try resetting it first before you order another. There is rolled up brass mesh in the fuel line. I haven't had to remove mine and am not sure that would help with your present problem. If the valve closes without the needle then I wouldn't think the mesh filter is a problem.
The needle is broke now. I removed the jet to set it again and I noticed the needle tip is broken off -that is why I would need another tip. I also noticed the spindle is worn as well. The stove works and for now until I can afford it will have to do. The mesh screen -I am just curious as I didn't see it when I looked at some diagrams. Are they in all the 111 stoves? Would there be some models which they would be used in?
I've never separated a 111 burner from the tank so am no expert. This Base Camp drawing shows the mesh screen. It's part #2164 and called a strainer.
